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what did you do to tune your trans? I also want to firm up my shifts and increase my speed limiter some. I have stock HEIGHT tires so my speedometer is still accurate and the trans is shifting like it was new... just sloppy as can be.

I have the AutoCal from BalckBear so when I logged data for them it logs both the engine and tranny. Then just email the files for both and tell them what requests you have i.e. firmer shifts, speed limiter, etc... and they will send a tune back. They had me load the new tune and log data again so they could make sure everything was good on my truck. The people at BBP are great to deal with.

I'm not joking when I say it's like driving a completely different truck.

 

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post-142991-0-96690600-1450249706_thumb.jpgSo I have a question. I have researched the static compression ratio for the L83 EcoTec3 to be 11.0:1. the chart above is showing us what our effective compression ratio (boost PSI + static compression) will be after the fact. Lets say that I choose a Whipple, and it produces anywhere from 6-8 PSI of boost. That now puts us at a 15.5-17.0:1 effective compression ratio. From what I have read on the internet thus far is that a static + boost compression ratio over 12.0:1 will make you very liable to detonation. However, we have many people who have done this already without any issues(that we know of). obviously a tune would change the way the engines act to the supercharger, right? So my question! what is our maximum effective compression ratio before we start seeing problems ON A STOCK ENGINE? is it 12.0:1? or is there someone here who knows there stuff and explain it to me and maybe others in an understandable context? Let's talk Superchargers.

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Static and Dynamic compression are two different animals. Dynamic is the cylinder pressure (PSI) at the time of the intake closing events of the camshaft. Also the cylinder head design plays a big part in the situation too especially the chamber shape to keep detonation at bay. Don't get to caught up on Static numbers. Also DI engines curb detonation a little better than other forms of fuel injection to. For instance I have a Harley Davidson with a 120" motor with 13.5:1 and it has 220 PSI cylinder in both cylinders and has two sets of compression releases to help turn the engine over during start up and runs fine on pump gas but it's all in the tune, I have a powervision tuner with 3 tunes i can switch to 1. for 87 octane 2. for 93 octane and 3. C116 race fuel.

 

RT

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Direct injection is the key here with boost. Take the Ecobust Fords... the 3.5 is a 10:1 static engine that runs 15+ psi stock and rated for 87 octane fuel in the trucks. When the fuel isn't in the cylinder to detonate it makes it harder to do so.

 

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Look also at the Lysholm kits. Less $ and still the same Eaton TVS blower. I like Magnuson as the intercooler brick design seems to do a great job.

 

With any of these you will want to do the proper effective catchcan system like the Elite new E2-X system w/cleanside separator as 1994Vmax states, you do not want any combustible present during the compression stroke or detonation will rear it's ugly head even more severe than old port injection.

 

Also do not want that oil to bake onto the intercooler and insulate and obstruct the flow over time. This is after 14k miles:

 

intercooler%20clogged_zpsmj8gpf3s.jpg

 

Also would add the ecoboost Ford makes more power and gets better fuel economy on 93 octane as the KR is so much less and it can run more advance timing.

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Has anyone had any issues after the supercharger? I have mine and am getting ready to install it in the next month or so. Does anyone know if you can use an aftermarket intake still? It looks like it won't work due to the way the stock intake is. I already have a catch can so I hope to get out most of the crap before it starts getting into the engine. Would like to talk to someone that did the install themselves. I want to make sure I have everything ready to go for the install.

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Has anyone had any issues after the supercharger? I have mine and am getting ready to install it in the next month or so. Does anyone know if you can use an aftermarket intake still? It looks like it won't work due to the way the stock intake is. I already have a catch can so I hope to get out most of the crap before it starts getting into the engine. Would like to talk to someone that did the install themselves. I want to make sure I have everything ready to go for the install.

 

6.2L and a supercharger... If you you are even in Missouri let me know... I wanna go for a ride! Good luck with the install.

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I just finished my eforce install. The hardest part was removing the wiring harness from the back of the stock intake manifold and the tightening the supercharger to head bolts on the back of the engine. Both would have almost beeen easier to remove the cab lol. Also in my install instructions I wanted me to temporarily remove the two heater hoses that go into the cab. I didn't want to deal with that and I was able to leave them in.

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How is it driving? Who did the tune? I did not have that suggestion for my instructions. Mine States that I can remove the hoses to the reservoir but it's not needed. Did you have to regap your spark plugs?

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How is it driving? Who did the tune? I did not have that suggestion for my instructions. Mine States that I can remove the hoses to the reservoir but it's not needed. Did you have to regap your spark plugs?

 

BlackBear performance is doing the tune. It drives ok now, but that's expected. Justin is having me log and send him data, then he changes the tune and I reflash it, and we repeat. After a couple iterations it should drive just fine. I did not touch the spark plugs on mine

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Are you driving it without a tune or with the base tune from Justin? I have a base tune from him for when I install mine.

 

The base tune, you can tell its not super smooth. but for daily driving it's fine. His advise is jsut no high throttle or high rpm. Right now he wants me to log boost under moderate throttle and under 5000 rpms.

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