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That's very helpful thanks. Was the bar easy to disconnect from the truck - specifically, the wiring for the break light? I assume just a plug somewhere? What did you grind the edge with? Could be my project for tomorrow!

The wire runs down the driver side front bed stake hole. You can unplug it under the truck. There's two bolts per tube end basically. All with a star bit.

 

 

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Thanks. I didn't disconnect the wire but did detach the bars. I just placed the bar sideways in the rear bed in as much as the wire would allow. I then used a roto-zip with a 3" metal cutting disc. I cut along the top of the bar (as opposed along the side that attached to the bracket) which enabled me to get a straight edge (rather than a little bit of the curve). It only took about 5min per side. It was a very quick process. I then used a grinding stone attachment on a Dremel to smooth it a bit. Then, I used the steel brush attachment to polish it further. Finally, I used satin black Krylon to paint the edge (wish I could have found grey). I haven't done it yet but I intend to drill one hole in each bracket straight down and attach it with a 1/4" wide, 1" long stainless steel bolt. Then, I'll be ready for the retrax. Thanks again. For anyone else wanting to do this....cutting the brackets is really a piece of cake.

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Question for those who modified the roll bar bracket to fit over top of the cover rails; is it feasible to drill holes into the top of the bed for bolting down the roll bar for a more secure attachment instead of using double sided tape? Or is it too risky in regards to worrying about the value of the truck due to modifying the bed?

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Question for those who modified the roll bar bracket to fit over top of the cover rails; is it feasible to drill holes into the top of the bed for bolting down the roll bar for a more secure attachment instead of using double sided tape? Or is it too risky in regards to worrying about the value of the truck due to modifying the bed?

You sure can. I've thought about it, just hate the idea of a eye sore of a nut on top. If you ever took it out you could always put a little cap over he hole and it would blend right in

 

 

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Yes..... I decided to put two in to each bar. 1/4" flat head top stainless steel screw. 1" long. Used a 1/4" steel drill bit. Went right though. Easy. The screw heads are same size as the ones on the "Sierra" shield. I spray painted them black. I used 1" stainless steel washer underneath with plastic locking nuts. I think it looks totally fine and matches everything else (like the screw heads that stick up behind the passenger side forward bracket. I can post a pick if you want. All good and very worth getting a nice bed cover....retrax for me.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the pics Amlaszlo; did you have any with the retrax cover on and the bar mounted on top? I suspect the part of the railing that goes over top of the bed will require modification by way of holes in order to make it work. Still hardly a cause for the manufacturer to use as an excuse to void the warranty contrast to notching it as the alternative approach.

 

Tbek I see that, but unfortunately it's only a soft cover which I believe is the same manufacturer that was listed in this thread that had one already made for the sports bar. Some of us want something solid instead of a soft cover and it seems we're still left to modifying the bar (or cover) to make it work for anything else except that specific soft cover.

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I just found this site and I really dig the look of the sports bar on these trucks. However, the Chevy accessories site doesn't show the sports bar anymore, are they still selling it or did GM drop them? Also, what do the light mounting brackets look like? I have two 12" light bars and a 20" bar I want to add to that spot. If I can't find one of these, I'll do a headache rack.

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I just found this site and I really dig the look of the sports bar on these trucks. However, the Chevy accessories site doesn't show the sports bar anymore, are they still selling it or did GM drop them? Also, what do the light mounting brackets look like? I have two 12" light bars and a 20" bar I want to add to that spot. If I can't find one of these, I'll do a headache rack.

 

http://www.gmc.com/accessories.html?refId=1acabff5-e827-41d0-a2e7-cf70a7db87c3&bac=C444444

 

Select a 1500, 2500 or 3500 Sierra and do a search under "Sport bar" and it should pop up.

 

I found if a vehicle wasn't selected, you wouldn't get any hits

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I have a Silverado.

 

From what I understand, Silverado/Sierra are virtually identical structure wise including the bed.

 

Do a quick search to verify.

 

Granted it will have the "Sierra" machined out side skin on the roll bar plate so that would be a bit odd unless you swapped it out with a custom Silverado one from a local machinist.

 

Or get the one that shows "Special Ops" on there if you like that instead.

 

Edit - Looking at your listed vehicle under your username, I have no clue if the roll bar will fit your 2014 as it only lists 2016 and up since as to when they came out...

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.

 

Edit - Looking at your listed vehicle under your username, I have no clue if the roll bar will fit your 2014 as it only lists 2016 and up since as to when they came out...

To that end, I swung by the dealer today and told me the reason I didn't find it is because it's technically not for a 2014, so it's not listed in the 2014 accessories, so I looked just now and it's there under a 2016 truck. The reason being for that is my 2014 is not prewired for the stop light or off-road lights, but from what I understand from this thread is that it comes with the wiring for the brake light and I'm planning on doing my own wiring for the off-road lights.

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Hi Mudded..... I haven't installed the retrax yet. I will in the next week or two. But, The way I have seen others do it is to actually remount the sports bar on top of the retrax flange. Others have said this is no problem. Biggest issue of course is mounting the rails which was eliminated by cutting back the roll-bar lip. I will post pics when done. Thanks, AML

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