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Oil pump replacement


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Dirt tell me what you would do you've read all my posts your in my shoes with 1000$ to fix this what do you do cause I'm so back in forth and wispy washy about everything trying to take in the advice of everyone and I wanna know what you would do and that's what I'm gonna do

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IF the truck itself (body, interior, etc.) is in decent to nice shape, I'd just run it until the engine grenades, then I'd either throw a crate engine in, or a junkyard engine, depending on funds.

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High volume oil pumps will usually only increase the volume of oil being pumped if the rest of the engine oiling system can support it. There is no real advantage to pumping more oil if the oiling system cannot "bleed" or "leak" it off fast enough. In other words, you can only flow as much volume as the engine oiling system can use. If the oiling system cannot "leak" it off, it will increase the load on the drive parts as Jsdirt has stated.

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Surely I would have seen it before at oil change maybe not it has me absolutely boggled I'm going to get a Melings M295 oil pump I found one for 58$ it's just a stock replacement but have heard nothing but good things about I will look at the timing chain and gears when pulling to replace oil pump if need be ill replace those as well might put new bearings in it depending on clearances when I gauge them probably leave her be cause they were in good shape upon inspection and I have zero bad motor noise so oil pump timimg components it is any recomendation on the time parts

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So I think I'm gonna replace food/ main bearings oil pump possible the crank but I doubt it cause it looks fine maybe a few other things but I plan to leave the motor in the truck I know I can't check clearance if I do this but I think it'll be fine any advice

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And the body and interior are excellent he'll look at the beautiful piece of work for an 04 I go the extra 3 miles when it comes to this truck hell I've hit three deer in it one doing 90 mph and I barley dented the bumper I had it replaced but I was able to drive on home and the truck never missed a beat it's an awesome Chevy ain't never left me hanging no where it's the Trojan horse the it's the version of the titanic that didn't go down its a stealth bomber an f22 raptor a C130 gunship a space shuttle a cruise missle a butterfly and a bee all rolled into one badass Chevy I don't never wanna get rid of her I love this truck

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Yes Tahoe is daily driver I love this truck it gets nothing but the best royal purple 5qts and 1 qt Lucas oil stabilizer with an ac delco filter ever 3000 miles premium gas it has been reliable as anyone could ask till now 150k I want to keep it I'm an out of work oilfield driller in the beginning stages of dementia so all my automotive experience from the the time I was 5 helping dad till now is spotty so I rely on these sites for help

I have rebuilt many sbc before but now I would for sure rely on a book and I don't think I can pull it off anymore I found a used crate 5.3 with a 5 year unlimited mile warranty for $1100 free shipping is that good or how much do you think it would cost to rebuild if rebuilt I would like it stronger than before dosent have to be race day ready or anything I just don't want the cheapest parts cause it is my dd and gets my kids every where the want to go and I want it strong and safe

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What year and mileage? And are you having issues or why do you prefer a full replacement? And is the Tahoe a dd?

 

You might want to just rebuild the current engine or one with fewer miles. Although we don't know what your end goal is.

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You can check clearances on rod bearings with engine in chassis, and you can get a fairly accurate check of main bearings as well. They may come back a bit tight though due to crank hanging. If the bearing inserts are still one colour, not scored, burnt(don't go by smell, go by appearance) or damaged, and the cranks is also not damaged, then it is likely still good. You can measure the thickness of the main bearing inserts and compare them to each other, or if you have access to a new insert, compare it to that to see if they are worn.

 

Personally, I am with Jsdirt, clean the pickup tube, give it a new oil pump (assuming it can be done in chassis), and button it back up, I would also want to take a look at the timing chain and gears, and once at that point, replace them. I would be looking at the timing chain BEFORE buying any hard parts like oi pumps. Are those metal bits ferrous metal? Some could simply be casting flash that has been there since the first year of service.

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I did a Melling in a 4.3 V6. Made a big difference in pressure on a 155k mile engine.

 

If it's stock, there's no need to go high volume. It just places additional strain on the timing chain & cam.

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Plastigauge for checking bearing clearances. I'd measure all of them before buying anything. If they're within spec, I'd leave it be.

 

Highly doubt you need a new crank, but you never know ...

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