Reasons to go 10,000 miles on Oil?

[mookdoc6]

My last two brand new cars all went 10,000 miles between oil changes. None had any mechanical problems leaking or etc. Always used Decent 100% synthetic oil/filter media. So I now have dumped the original factory oil which YES, IT DID CONTAIN METAL SHAVINGS for those who think it's OK to leave factory oil until 5000 miles.

 

Now, that I have new Oil and filter I will go 10,000 miles never less and sometimes 1k more from this point forward does anybody see of feel it could be a problem? I have owned nothing but V6'S and never had a problem but have not used this maintenance technique on v8's or Trucks.

 

Just looking to see if you guys are running longer on your oil?

[glcbn]

Normal driving conditions?

If so, I don't see any reason why you couldn't go that long. Heck the oil in my old ('98 Silverado) truck wasn't changed but once a year. Sometimes as many as 15,000 miles using Mobil 1. I put close to 300,000 miles on that truck with zero engine problems.

[SouthernSilveradoGuy85]

It's normal to have a little bit of metal in the oil on a brand new truck because that's the engine breaking in.

 

With an engine that doesn't have anything like AFM or VVT you can go 5,000 on conventional, 7,500 with synthetic blend and 10,000 with full synthetic all with no problem. These trucks having AFM and VVT I believe breaks down the oil a little quicker (so would require an earlier oil change since changing the oil is due to the oil breaking down), but since they designed the engines and oil pans to use a lot more oil then the oil change mileage goes back to 5,000, 7,500 and 10,000. The 5.3 holds 8 quarts, not sure about the 4.3 but I believe the 6.2 also uses 8 quarts. The reason the manual says to change the oil every 7,500 miles is because the factory and dealerships use synthetic blend. Now that my 2 year maintenance warranty is up I'll be changing the oil and all like In used to. I plan to use full synthetic so I could easily go 10,000 miles, but I think I'll still change it at 7,500 just to keep everything synced with the oil life in the DIC and the maintenance schedule in the manual. I will use Mobil 1 oil and filter like I did on my old truck.

[15silver]

Synthetic may have some better lube properties left over regular dino at 10000, but its as dirty as any other oil at 10000.

 

Changing it is also about removing your contaminated oil, and should be done at the same intervals as dino.

 

Synth is better for cold start, higher temps from southern climates or towing, etc.

It still gets as dirty as standard motor oil.

 

With the 8 quart pans, you can go longer because you have twice as much oil to contaminate. Not cause its synth.

 

Your truck, your choice, of course.

[mookdoc6]

Thanks much appreciated and much I did not factor into with this truck! I do live in Phoenix so it gets Hotter than Hot! I have noticed that the Oil Life monitor does drop much quicker with the Truck than my other cars....seems like I can a week before a 1% is removed with cars.

 

Since most of you do feel it's good at 10,000 miles I feel it would be too and LIFE IS SO MUCH EASIER TO ROTATE TIRES AND CHANGE FILTER AT 10,000 miles.....You end up doing it like TWICE A YEAR! Cant beat that with a stick.

 

Thanks for the comments!

[Chevor]

I would not go extended drains on a new engine. Manufacturing process can be very dirty. I would start with a 500 mile interval, then 2500, then 500 to clean out any dirt that was left in the engine during the build.

[ToesonTheNose]

i go until my DIC tells me its time and then I change, been that way on all my vehicles sometimes its once or twice a year if I deploy, others will be several when the computer says go I go lol

[gone_fishing]

i go until my DIC tells me its time and then I change, been that way on all my vehicles sometimes its once or twice a year if I deploy, others will be several when the computer says go I go lol

 

Same here. My OLM has got down to 5% or less usually after 7300-7500 miles. Been running Mobil 1 0W-20.

 

Any Dexos1 approved 0W-20 will be fine to 0% on the OLM.

[HondaHawkGT]

I say it's stupid to stretch out oil change intervals that far personally. Oil is relatively cheap vs circulating dirty oil around as long as possible. Washing your laundry is relatively expensive, so do you try to wear the same underwear as long as possible? Circulating dirty, contaminated oil for as long as possible is ridiculous when compared to the cost of a rebuild or replacement engine. Oil does a lot more than it did a decade or two ago. Besides lubricating all the moving pars of the engine -- it's used to control cam timing via the cam phaser, fills the hydraulic lifters, deactivates the AFM lifters, cools the pistons to prevent their failure or detonation, etc. Also, if you drive many short trips, you'd find that your engine oil degrades much faster than mileage would suggest too. Short trips degrade the additives of the oil and cause it to turn acidic over time.

[ToesonTheNose]

i wash my jeans like twice a year ( I live in florida I don't think I wear them twice a year haha)

[mookdoc6]

My drive to work is 40 miles one way so 500 week is more accurate for me and 95% hwy. I think it's noble that most of you change the oil at 3-5K but I don't think it's necessary. Between company vehicles and my own over the last few decades: In case your wondering I put almost 6000 engine hours on a 2011 or 2012 Chevy 2500 in one year and changed the oil if I was lucky at 10,000 miles! I would sit in the middle of the desert idling 15-16 somethimes 20 hours a day EVERYDAY! My point is most people don't drive a truck like that each and everyday. On a side note that truck went almost 200,000 before a brake job and never had engine work only transfer case blew out on it. So I am going with 10,000 miles quality oil filter and be done with it. I might get it checked like somebody says you can and I never knew about that.

[Black02Silverado]

I don't see why you can't do 10k oil changes with a high quality synthetic. You might want to pull an oil sample once in a while to make sure things are going OK. Fuel dilution can be an issue and that can kill any oil. Never hurts to keep an eye on things. I found an issue with my daughters Cruze through a UOA. Took it to the dealer and they found the pcv tube cracked and a valve in the plastic intake was stuck. All covered under warranty. So that UOA paid for itself.

[twoheeldrive]

Until the warranty is over, I would follow the Oil Life Monitor and carefully document every change. After the warranty, stretch it out as much as you want. These trucks hold a lot of oil. They increased the sump from 6 quarts to 8 quarts with the new DI V8's, but the oil change interval stayed the same.

 

Does that mean that DI engines are harder on oil?

 

Edit: Well, after a little research, yes it does. The GDI process creates soot that gets in the oil. Soot, is of course, not a good thing as it thickens the oil and increases wear. GM must have decided to increase the oil volume to dilute the soot so they could maintain the same service interval.

[elcamino]

Unfortunately, there are market forces that have a vested interest in convincing vehicle owners to change their oil more often than necessary. The legal prey of these market forces have become convinced that they are purchasing "cheap insurance" or "peace of mind" by changing their oil more often than necessary and many have bought into this.

[HondaHawkGT]

Unfortunately, there are market forces that have a vested interest in convincing vehicle owners to change their oil more often than necessary. The legal prey of these market forces have become convinced that they are purchasing "cheap insurance" or "peace of mind" by changing their oil more often than necessary and many have bought into this.

Unfortunately some people are convinced that because they fill their engine with high priced full synthetic that *bam* they're saving money by stretching out their oil change intervals, all the while their engine is simply circulating high quality oil filled with the same or more carbon/combustion contaminates for longer than they could normally get away with. Waiting until your TBN is nearly zero to change your oil is the equivalent of waiting until your tires are nearly flat to air them back up. By the time you begin to see copper and lead on your oil analysis reports, you've already performed a "grinding" operation on your engine. Your bushings have essentially been machined using either the carbon circulating in your oil or the lack of adequate oil film has allowed too much contact between moving parts. It's an idiotic practice considering how much a new vehicle costs and how little oil costs.