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So, I got a nice vibration under braking, so its time to replace.

 

Has anyone replaced pads and rotors yet?

 

If so, where did you source them?

 

Not sure if i'm going to the local part store or source from the dealer.

 

(my application is a short drive to work and suburban driving, so no crazy setups. just looking for stockish replacements)

 

 

Thanks in advanced!

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You might consider doing a bedding cycle. The deposits you have in your rotor might smooth out if it's slight modulation under braking.

 

 

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I just swapped out the OEM rotors/Pads on my GMT900 2013 Sierra with the 2014-2016 Duralife front rotors, and the 2014-2016 GM pads. My original rotors were slightly warped, and thus beginning to shake at high speeds, especially when hot, so off they went.

The part numbers:

 

Pads 23135915 or AC Delco 171-1129 $112 list $71 wholesale

 

 

 

Rotors 23144340 or AC Delco 177-1163 $136 list $86.36 wholesale

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Got my front pads and rotors off Amazon for 210, slotted and drilled rotors

X2 on the drilled and slotted. Have installed them on 3 vehicles and they not only provide better braking, but did not warp like standard rotors. I drive in heavy traffic usually with lots of hard braking. I run the Power Stop brand.

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Pick up some rotors from R1 Concepts. Used them on 2 previous cars (335i and M3) with excellent results using Hawk pads. I am about to do the same. I get shake under normal load but when I'm towing, I think the trucks gonna fall apart if I brake any harder

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I've got a shake when slowing from interstate spped. I can't decide if it's front or rear disc that teed changing.

 

Question for those that have changed the front rotor on a 2wd, did you need to replace the wheel bearings also. I haven't changed rotors on a newer vehicle yet. Plenty of older ones.

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Don't need to touch wheel bearings on new vehicles unless they failed or are making noise.

 

Stay away from drilled, go slotted (though honestly the benefits on a regular vehicle daily driving are pretty much nill, more for high heat/speed braking instances on a track) the drilled rotors can develop stress cracks between the holes.

 

Tyler

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Don't need to touch wheel bearings on new vehicles unless they failed or are making noise.

 

Stay away from drilled, go slotted (though honestly the benefits on a regular vehicle daily driving are pretty much nill, more for high heat/speed braking instances on a track) the drilled rotors can develop stress cracks between the holes.

 

Tyler

^^this!!!

That is very true but slotted has its own issues as well. You spend enough time at the track and you'll see failures in all types of rotors. But drilled as you said are infamous for failing. All though some high end cars come with them from the factory, I don't know if the holes are apart of the casting or if they are drilled just smaller and better placed in the veins.

 

 

 

 

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10k on this set and no issues so far and had them on my old truck till the day I sold it, so about 40k miles on them, with zero issues. That truck was lifted 10" with 37's and 4.88's along with SUV dual piston rear calipers, 05+ fronts (rotors increased an inch back then) I forgot to mention truck was an 02

 

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