Changing the brakes -- so many choices

drumstyx · July 26, 2016

I'm doing the brakes all around on my '03 Sierra 1500 5.3L 2WD, due to horribly worn rotors, and I figured while I'm in there I might as well do the calipers (or is this misguided? I just don't want to be stuck waiting for more parts, spending more than bundle prices, if I end up needing calipers)

On Rockauto, there are distinctions between quadrasteer and non-quadrasteer, and single piston and dual rears. The most confusing thing is that the 'one of our most popular parts' set for the rear, is listed as "Rear; With Single Piston Rear Caliper; 4 Wheel Steering", and the front/rear combo listed as "Front & Rear; 6 lug Quadrasteer Models with single piston rear calipers" is cheaper than the "except quadrasteer" counterpart. I'd figure the non-quadrasteer would be more popular/common and thus cheaper!

Might be a stupid question, but are the quadrasteer brake parts compatible with non-4-wheel-steering models?

In any case, assuming they aren't, am I correct in thinking that my truck has single piston rears?

Thanks!

SunShine01 · July 26, 2016

As far as I can remember, a quad steer is basically a different animal and more complex.

I'd replace my rotors with the very same take offs.

Not saying they won't work, but one thing you don't want to mess with is brake timing when you need it most.

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SpartanAutoworx · July 26, 2016

I would not replace the calipers.

Get high quality Pads and Rotors and also flush the brake system as brake fluid does absorb moisture.

I always buy GM Pads for my daily driver but put two sets of AM rotors on and had issues with warping. No issues with new GM Ones but it did come with a price for the GM Logo. lol

drumstyx · July 26, 2016

I ended up just buying the rotor and pad set. The calipers seem to be working alright, hubs are about as warm as expected after a long drive, no extreme heat.

Being in southern Ontario, salt is a big thing, and the brake lines are quite rusty, so I don't really want to bother with the lines (calipers and hoses) right now either, I'm getting those replaced soon enough (how much will that cost? Not looking forward to it!)

This truck is mostly a winter beater, but also used for when I buy and sell motorcycles, and when I go to the dump, small scale, light duty. As such, cheap pads and rotors will do! If I get 2 more winters out of it, I'll be happy.

Regarding bleeding the system, I've heard the ABS system requires high end OBDII tools ($400+) to get it done. Can I bleed the calipers normally (or with a vacuum pump, as I have one) without doing the ABS unit? The pedal has always been spongy and will reach the floor before locking up on dry pavement, would this be simply a matter of bleeding calipers, or is that the ABS system?

BlackZ71Silverado · July 27, 2016

No need to spend money on calipers if you don't specifically have an issue there.....Quality rotors and pads will serve you well, what brand did you order?.

anumber1 · July 27, 2016

Bleeding your brakes from the caliper will not require a scan tool to cycle the abs pump.

Daryl Z71 · July 27, 2016

I've had my master cylinder completely drained twice and have never had to use a scan tool to bleed the ABS. Both times I've just bled the brakes like normal and everything worked okay.

Nanotech Environmental · July 27, 2016

I ended up just buying the rotor and pad set. The calipers seem to be working alright, hubs are about as warm as expected after a long drive, no extreme heat.

Being in southern Ontario, salt is a big thing, and the brake lines are quite rusty, so I don't really want to bother with the lines (calipers and hoses) right now either, I'm getting those replaced soon enough (how much will that cost? Not looking forward to it!)

This truck is mostly a winter beater, but also used for when I buy and sell motorcycles, and when I go to the dump, small scale, light duty. As such, cheap pads and rotors will do! If I get 2 more winters out of it, I'll be happy.

Regarding bleeding the system, I've heard the ABS system requires high end OBDII tools ($400+) to get it done. Can I bleed the calipers normally (or with a vacuum pump, as I have one) without doing the ABS unit? The pedal has always been spongy and will reach the floor before locking up on dry pavement, would this be simply a matter of bleeding calipers, or is that the ABS system?

When you do the lines- use copper/nickel tube. It's easy to work with, fairly cheap and doesn't rust out like the stock steel lines. It comes in a roll.

If you pay a shop to do it, it will be probably $500 or more, because of the labor. If you do it yourself, probably only $100 or so.

CK10703 · July 29, 2016

You could also contact inline tube. I believe they could fabricate something that would be plug and play if they dont already stock the exact replacements.

billy396 · August 3, 2016

I'm doing the brakes all around on my '03 Sierra 1500 5.3L 2WD, due to horribly worn rotors, and I figured while I'm in there I might as well do the calipers (or is this misguided? I just don't want to be stuck waiting for more parts, spending more than bundle prices, if I end up needing calipers)

On Rockauto, there are distinctions between quadrasteer and non-quadrasteer, and single piston and dual rears. The most confusing thing is that the 'one of our most popular parts' set for the rear, is listed as "Rear; With Single Piston Rear Caliper; 4 Wheel Steering", and the front/rear combo listed as "Front & Rear; 6 lug Quadrasteer Models with single piston rear calipers" is cheaper than the "except quadrasteer" counterpart. I'd figure the non-quadrasteer would be more popular/common and thus cheaper!

Might be a stupid question, but are the quadrasteer brake parts compatible with non-4-wheel-steering models?

In any case, assuming they aren't, am I correct in thinking that my truck has single piston rears?

Thanks!

Yes your truck has single piston rear calipers. You don't want anything to do with quadrasteer parts unless you have that option on your truck.

billy396 · August 3, 2016

When you do the lines- use copper/nickel tube. It's easy to work with, fairly cheap and doesn't rust out like the stock steel lines. It comes in a roll.

If you pay a shop to do it, it will be probably $500 or more, because of the labor. If you do it yourself, probably only $100 or so.

I didn't have any problem bleeding my brake system in the traditional manner without any special tools when I replaced the brake fluid. It has worked fine ever since.