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Fog Light Installation 2010 Silverado


Pecoy

Question

My truck isn't equipped with fog light wiring harness relay.I bought some Spyder fog lights and I'm trying to find the harness relay wiring to do myself. The dealership was no help either. I'm willing to run an on/off switch through my firewall and mount it on the dash, just need to know exactly what kind of harness to buy and where to buy it. I've been searching the Web everywhere. Can anyone help?

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You can also do this using factory parts. Get the headlight switch that came on the fog light equipped truck, and get the factory harness that connects the fog lights to the fuse panel under hood. If you can get the instructions from the fog light kit from GM Accessories it will also outline the wiring install in the fuse panel to get the existing relay to work as well. It has been 6 years, but, I will see if I still have the instructions that came with the GM fog light kit I got for my 2010 Sierra.

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I'm understanding alot more, thanks for being helpful and patient. So really the only thing I need to get is a switch. I don't think I'm gonna splice in to the day light wiring. Gonna somehow run the switch to my dash.

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No problem.

 

I wouldn't splice into any of the lights on the truck. No reason to. Plenty of places to steal 300mA of switched 12v power from right in the cab.

 

I mounted my compressor switch right at the bottom of the dash, next to my trailer brake controller. I ran the wire from the switch under the carpet, and fed it down the e-brake cable boot in the floor. Didn't have to drill anything, which was nice. My relay is in the bed of my truck right next to the compressors (there's 2 of them), & the e-brake cable was already aimed that way, so that's what I used.

 

You'll only need to run one wire from the switch through the firewall to the relay primary (85). 86 can be grounded near the relay somewhere, preferably on the frame. Might be a grommet somewhere under there that you can feed that one wire through.

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I would just make your own - will be alot cheaper, and probably better anyway.

 

Cube relays are super simple. 85 & 86 are the primary side (power from the switch runs through this), and 87 & 30 are the secondary side (power from battery runs to fogs when primary side is powered up). 1/4" female spade terminals fit right on them. Heat shrink tubing over them to insulate. Rest is just running wires and cutting them to length. Can tap into just about anything to power the switch & primary side of relay.

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Here ya go - this one even has a harness! Just hook up the wires (or extend them) and you're set.

 

Since it's so cheap, you might want to grab 2 or more - something tells me this won't last very long ...

 

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6

 

EDIT: that one is a 5 pin, so you wouldn't use the 87A terminal. Otherwise the lights would be on UNTIL you flipped the switch.

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Just need a toggle switch, and maybe some butt connectors to extend the wiring (if needed), a ring terminal for a chassis ground, some fork or ring terminals for the toggle switch, and either butt connectors, bullet connectors, or solder and shrink tubing to connect to the fogs.

 

Can buy quick connect terminals at any autoparts store. If you live where they salt the roads, spend the extra money for heat shrink waterproof connectors instead of the cheap ones. You'll see a mix of both pictured:

 

fork terminals

 

butt connectors

 

ring terminals

 

Oh, and you'll need a fuse and fuse holder for the wire coming off the battery to power the fogs. 15A should be plenty.

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So I cut the plug in coming from my lights, exposing the wire. Then connect them to that relay I buy from amazon. Run the switch to my dash and make sure I got power going to it from my battery. Now the wire I buy to extend the wires, does it have to be the same guage as the wire coming off the lights? How do I find the correct size?

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Power to the switch will come from something in the cab. For example, I used a wire that powers the instrument cluster left side (in a black covered box by your left foot sitting in driver's seat - I wanted one that was only powered key-on). Other side of the switch will go to the relay - I'd mount the relay somewhere under the hood, so that you don't have heavy gauge wire coming into the cab from the battery.

 

Wire is stamped on the jacket with it's size. 16 AWG is 16-gauge wire. Just match up whatever it says on the jacket. I'd use 12 gauge wire from the battery to the relay, and from the relay to the fogs. 16 or lighter can be used to the switch - primary side only draws about 300 mA or so, so not a big deal running light wire there.

 

Power to the lights will come from the battery, thru a fuse, then to the relay (30) and then out (87) to the fogs.

 

Whatever plug is on the fogs, I'd cut it off and use the aforementioned connectors.

 

Here's a great diagram for how to wire the relay. It's British, so the terminology is different - just FYI:

 

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/Driving_light_relay_wiring_diagram.png

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