Rough country 3.5" lift kit

rayfricke · July 13, 2017

just ran across this thread. RC 3.5 Great leveling kit. Just installed mine, Great ride at $550 installed.

so would you say this is a better ride then stock or about the same? i just went a suspension shop and they recommended that i get a full lift instead because the ride would be bad but i already purchased the 3.5 level lift.

SMiller · July 13, 2017

so would you say this is a better ride then stock or about the same? i just went a suspension shop and they recommended that i get a full lift instead because the ride would be bad but i already purchased the 3.5 level lift.

Again cranked torsion bars are cranked torsion bars, if you truly want to be leveled, have good ride, and have the money then cut the frame and install a Cognito 4in. lift cranked down to 3in. otherwise just crank the bars all the way, install shock spacers, diff spacers, and get allingment. Upper control arms will help with down travel and safety but ride is still shitty.

That 3.5in. lift is no lift at all, only way to LIFT the truck is to cut the frame otherwise you are just getting ripped off on a shitty leveling kit.

shortnugly · July 13, 2017

I would agree with SMiller on one point, it's not a traditional lift. It's a leveling kit. It simply levels the front of your truck to eliminate some, or all of your factory rake.

If your objective is to fit larger tires for more ground clearance for your undercarriage or axles. You can do that with a leveling kit or a traditional lift kit.

I had a Rancho 6" lift kit on my 2001 2500HD, cranked to 4.5". Great lift, quality components but it raised my center of gravity to accomodate larger tires in the confines of my fenderwell. I did not tow heavy with that truck. Once I had to tow some equipment totaling just over 12,000 lbs for a short distance. Not a comfortable experience. No matter the quality of the lift, once you get over 3", you'll feel it wander.

Since then, I've chosen to level my trucks and trim inner fenderwell linings, plastic valances and, in some cases, hammer back the rear fenderwell pinch weld for more clearance. Google SoCal mod

I've installed the RC 3.5 kit on my 2012 1500 - only cranked the torsion bars 2.5" to fit 305/65 18s,

my son's 2011 1500 - only cranked the torsion bars 2.5" to fit 305/65 18s,

and now my 2015 Denali HD - only cranked the torsion bars 2.5" to fit 35 12.5 20s. I've documented my experiences with this kit on this forum and others.

My personal experience is that it hits all the key points needed to accomodate larger tires without raising the truck's center of gravity any more than is needed. I now have a toyhauler and tow heavier loads and want the truck mass as low as it can be given the taller tires. If I wanted maximum towing capacity, I'd leave the stock tire size, but I hunt and go offroad often so I need the clearance the larger tires provide.

Honestly, if the fender wells were wider and I could fit 33"+ tires without a level, I would.

Ride quality is subjective. I'm an older guy and I like my cush ride. These are wonderful trucks and I enjoy the engineering and durability.

1500 mile trips towing a trailer fully loaded, is much more enjoyable to me without sitting any higher than I need to be. Some like'em jacked way up. That's ok, each to his own.

All three of the trucks mentioned above have a firmer than stock, but very nice and comfortable, controlled ride.

Do your research and get other's opinions that have actually installed this kit. Listen to their first-hand experience.

Wsmith2382 · July 13, 2017

Again cranked torsion bars are cranked torsion bars, if you truly want to be leveled, have good ride, and have the money then cut the frame and install a Cognito 4in. lift cranked down to 3in. otherwise just crank the bars all the way, install shock spacers, diff spacers, and get allingment. Upper control arms will help with down travel and safety but ride is still shitty.

That 3.5in. lift is no lift at all, only way to LIFT the truck is to cut the frame otherwise you are just getting ripped off on a shitty leveling kit.

How are you getting ripped off on a shitty leveling kit and this 3.5 kit in the thread does pretty much all you said to do?

SMiller · July 14, 2017

How are you getting ripped off on a shitty leveling kit and this 3.5 kit in the thread does pretty much all you said to do?

$550 for a "kit" that does the same thing I can do with a 22mm socket for free in 10sec=ripped off...

Wsmith2382 · July 14, 2017

$550 for a "kit" that does the same thing I can do with a 22mm socket for free in 10sec=ripped off...

You said install shock and diff spacers plus uca's all that can't be done with a 22mm socket in 10 seconds. By the time you by the parts you listed how much are you actually saving. The kit comes with shocks uca's block for the back and all associated hardware. Not trying to go back and forth, just trying to see what you see

SMiller · July 14, 2017

You said install shock and diff spacers plus uca's all that can't be done with a 22mm socket in 10 seconds. By the time you by the parts you listed how much are you actually saving. The kit comes with shocks uca's block for the back and all associated hardware. Not trying to go back and forth, just trying to see what you see

My beef is with calling this "leveling kit" a lift kit, nothing personal against this kit just the fact that there is no such thing as a cut free lift on GM trucks.

shortnugly · July 17, 2017

so would you say this is a better ride then stock or about the same? i just went a suspension shop and they recommended that i get a full lift instead because the ride would be bad but i already purchased the 3.5 level lift.

What year is your truck? and what size tires are you trying to fit?

Wsmith2382 · July 18, 2017

My beef is with calling this "leveling kit" a lift kit, nothing personal against this kit just the fact that there is no such thing as a cut free lift on GM trucks.

Ah I understand that...I agree it's not a "true" lift, but I was able to do what I wanted using it plus keep factory warranty. A shock upgrade is a must though...

shortnugly · July 19, 2017

The kit for my 2500 includes the following.

The four round puck spacers drop the diff an inch to level out the CV angles, not factory level but close.

The Upper Control Arms increase the downward travel so it doesn't hit the bumpstop.

4 nice shocks. Not Bilstein nice, but they're adequate.

Rear spacers are optional, I didn't use them.

Overall, a pretty good kit to level out the front. I wouldn't recommend cranking it to the full 3.5", or even past 2.5"

But it keeps everything as close to stock as possible without lifting the trucks mass any more than is needed to accomodate larger tires.

Nice ride, still tight and comfy.

SMiller · July 20, 2017

The kit for my 2500 includes the following.

The four round puck spacers drop the diff an inch to level out the CV angles, not factory level but close.

The Upper Control Arms increase the downward travel so it doesn't hit the bumpstop.

4 nice shocks. Not Bilstein nice, but they're adequate.

Rear spacers are optional, I didn't use them.

Overall, a pretty good kit to level out the front. I wouldn't recommend cranking it to the full 3.5", or even past 2.5"

But it keeps everything as close to stock as possible without lifting the trucks mass any more than is needed to accomodate larger tires.

Nice ride, still tight and comfy.

RC 3.5 lift.jpg

I would not waste my time installing the keys until you have cranked your stock keys, if you max out your stock keys and still want more height then I would go through the trouble of installing the aftermarket keys.

Chances are your stock keys will get you where you want to be.

shortnugly · July 20, 2017

I would not waste my time installing the keys until you have cranked your stock keys, if you max out your stock keys and still want more height then I would go through the trouble of installing the aftermarket keys.

Chances are your stock keys will get you where you want to be.

I would disagree. You have to unload the torsion bars anyway to remove the UCAs and drop the diff.

The new ones are keyed differently and start the torque spring earlier. With the old keys you'll run out of bolt, then have to do it all over again.

SMiller · July 20, 2017

I would disagree. You have to unload the torsion bars anyway to remove the UCAs and drop the diff.

The new ones are keyed differently and start the torque spring earlier. With the old keys you'll run out of bolt, then have to do it all over again.

Lmao why in the world would you need to unload the torsion bars to drop the diff??? They have nothing to do with each other...

Takes 20sec to crank the torsion bar bolts, another 20sec to remove the bolts if the height is not enough.

As we have already been over several times, you can twist a torsion bar anyway you want, every way does the same thing...

shortnugly · July 20, 2017

1. buy the kit

2. beam with happiness that you're about to level your truck and throw on those new wheels and tires

3. Look at all the new shiny parts that come with the kit

4. record the measure from the middle of your fenderwell to floor driver and passenger side,

5. record measure from bottom of your front diff to the floor

6. jack up the front end, set your jack stands, unload torsion bar, remove the old keys, insert new ones. (20 seconds max)

7. Thread your torsion key bolt in to Measure 28mm to the top of the bolt. Rough estimate, you'll change this anyway.

8. while you have your front end jacked up, pull your tires.

9. remove old UCA's

10. install new shocks

11. install the zerk fittings on the new UCAs. Grease UCA ball joints. UCA with the notched gusset goes on the driver's side.

12. install new UCAs, don't sweat the alignment notch, you'll need an alignment anyway.

13. front tires back on, woohoo! congrats on the new wheels and tires

14. beer break, pee break

15. loosen the 4 diff mounting bolts but do not remove them. (ask me how I know this, doh!)

16. remove two of the diff mounting bolts corner to diagonal corner, insert two of the diff spacers. Thread the two bolts in a little.

17. remove the other two diff mounting bolts, insert the two other diff spacers and tighten all four mounting bolts.

18. Lower your truck and re-measure your fenderwell see what height your at.

19. Adjust your torsion spring to desired front end height or just call SMiller, he’ll be over in 5 minutes with his 22mm socket and knock that right out for ya.

20. Left and right side may vary. I like to get it close then drive it for a day and re-measure.

21. Measure the new height of your front diff to the floor, after all, that’s the reason for the new tires right?

Eazy Peazy

22. post pics on GMTrucks

SMiller · July 21, 2017

1. buy the kit

2. beam with happiness that you're about to level your truck and throw on those new wheels and tires

3. Look at all the new shiny parts that come with the kit

4. record the measure from the middle of your fenderwell to floor driver and passenger side,

5. record measure from bottom of your front diff to the floor

6. jack up the front end, set your jack stands, unload torsion bar, remove the old keys, insert new ones. (20 seconds max)

7. Thread your torsion key bolt in to Measure 28mm to the top of the bolt. Rough estimate, you'll change this anyway.

8. while you have your front end jacked up, pull your tires.

9. remove old UCA's

10. install new shocks

11. install the zerk fittings on the new UCAs. Grease UCA ball joints. UCA with the notched gusset goes on the driver's side.

12. install new UCAs, don't sweat the alignment notch, you'll need an alignment anyway.

13. front tires back on, woohoo! congrats on the new wheels and tires

14. beer break, pee break

15. loosen the 4 diff mounting bolts but do not remove them. (ask me how I know this, doh!)

16. remove two of the diff mounting bolts corner to diagonal corner, insert two of the diff spacers. Thread the two bolts in a little.

17. remove the other two diff mounting bolts, insert the two other diff spacers and tighten all four mounting bolts.

18. Lower your truck and re-measure your fenderwell see what height your at.

19. Adjust your torsion spring to desired front end height or just call SMiller, hell be over in 5 minutes with his 22mm socket and knock that right out for ya.

20. Left and right side may vary. I like to get it close then drive it for a day and re-measure.

21. Measure the new height of your front diff to the floor, after all, thats the reason for the new tires right?

Eazy Peazy

22. post pics on GMTrucks