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Oil and filter change yourself?


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#1 ymc226

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 09:54 AM

In the last few years, started doing my own oil and filter changes on my seasonal drivers (Porsche 911 GT3 and Land Rover Defender 90) as I've read horror stories about over torquing filters + drain plugs, inadequate filling and other damage done by service techs at quick change and even dealerships.

 

On my 2008 Suburban, I've taken to Jiffy Lube always (had a red check engine light once, no or very low oil by my local mechanic).  

 

Now with my 2016 Suburban, I'd like to change the oil and filter myself.  Does anyone change their own and are any instructions available online?  I've You Tubed on the last series Suburban and it seems straight forward.



#2 Brianibew

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 10:26 AM

In the last few years, started doing my own oil and filter changes on my seasonal drivers (Porsche 911 GT3 and Land Rover Defender 90) as I've read horror stories about over torquing filters + drain plugs, inadequate filling and other damage done by service techs at quick change and even dealerships.
 
On my 2008 Suburban, I've taken to Jiffy Lube always (had a red check engine light once, no or very low oil by my local mechanic).  
 
Now with my 2016 Suburban, I'd like to change the oil and filter myself.  Does anyone change their own and are any instructions available online?  I've You Tubed on the last series Suburban and it seems straight forward.


It's very straight forward, don't overthink it. If your servicing a Porsche and a Land Rover, this should be a cake walk for you. Drain it, replace filter, refill, reset the oil life reminder as stated in the manual. 10 min tops to do the job.

#3 ymc226

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 10:30 AM

It's very straight forward, don't overthink it. If your servicing a Porsche and a Land Rover, this should be a cake walk for you. Drain it, replace filter, refill, reset the oil life reminder as stated in the manual. 10 min tops to do the job.

 

I don't have a lift.  I can crawl under the Land Rover and use Jack Point Jackstands for the Porsche.  I guess looking at the front end of the Suburban, the front end needs to be lifted and placed on jack stands.  Do you need to lift the back end as well to level the truck for all the oil to drain out?  The Porsche needs to be leveled out for the 2 oil tanks to drain best.



#4 Brianibew

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 10:47 AM

I don't have a lift either. I use a couple 2x10 boards and drive the front tires up on them. Having the front end lifted up will not effect the way the oil drains out.

#5 ymc226

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 11:25 AM

Thanks Brian.  



#6 KARNUT

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 11:32 AM

Two daily drivers under warranty dealer, two toys myself.

#7 ymc226

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 10:02 PM

I know there are torque specs for every nut on everything. Not having the service manual, does anyone have the torque spec on the drain plug? Is there a washer on the plug? The Rover and Porsche have copper or aluminum ones.

I know the oil filter can be a "*itch" to get off. On the Land Rover it states screw on until the filter rubber gasket touches the mount and then tighten 1/2 turn which I'll follow on the Burb.

#8 seamus2154

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Posted 30 October 2016 - 07:09 PM

It is very straight forward. I too do my VW, Benz, and BMW. My Denali XL is a cake walk. As stated above, I drive up onto ramps as it gives some comfortable working room. Put on rubber gloves.  Drain the oil, drop the filter. MAKE SURE THE RUBBER GASKET CAME OFF WITH THE FILTER! Fill your new oil filter, (Wix or AC delco) skim gasket with oil, and install, hand tight then at least half a turn. I install a magnetic oil plug, tighten to correct torque spec ( I snug it good, but nothing crazy). I then brake clean the whole area into my drain pan. Move up top, put in a good dexos oil, I use Penzoil Platinum. My Denali called for 8.5 qts in owners manual, but I read here about a bulletin and it is now 8 qts as per GM. Your almost done. Reset oil monitor, note oil change in you owners manual. I then check tire pressure and top off windshield fluid. I keep a 5 gallon home depot bucket w/ a screw on lid for my used oil. When full recycle at any place that sells oil, or waste management for your area. Put ramps away, feel good that it was done right, no issues, and actually saved a few bucks in the process. Once a year check your air filter, and cabin filter, note in manual. 

 

You would not believe the horror stories on the corvette forum with the Zo6 and the dry sump system. Even at the dealer! My oil change takes 10 minutes to a half hour depending on who's around! LOL I couldn't imagine being one of those stories, I service all of my cars. In warranty cars, I keep the receipt for oil and filter in my manual. 

 

Good luck



#9 seamus2154

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Posted 30 October 2016 - 07:13 PM

I know there are torque specs for every nut on everything. Not having the service manual, does anyone have the torque spec on the drain plug? Is there a washer on the plug? The Rover and Porsche have copper or aluminum ones.

I know the oil filter can be a "*itch" to get off. On the Land Rover it states screw on until the filter rubber gasket touches the mount and then tighten 1/2 turn which I'll follow on the Burb.

No washer, it has a rubber gasket on the head. Its a steel pan just snug it. Same on oil filter, hand tight then half a turn, make sure old gasket came off and skim new one with a little oil. 


Edited by seamus2154, 30 October 2016 - 07:14 PM.


#10 TAZ DEVIL

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Posted 30 October 2016 - 07:39 PM

I'll never let someone work on my trucks unless I can't. To many things can happen at a busy shop.
-One friend's GMC HD diesel got hit by another car that fell off a hoist. Body damage was repaired, but who wants damage ?
-Other friend's drain plug fell out of his 7.3 diesel after dealer oil change. Luckily eng. derates with pressure loss.
Take your time and do it right yourself. Just like our father's and forefathers did !
Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire.

#11 ymc226

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 09:27 AM

It is very straight forward. I too do my VW, Benz, and BMW. My Denali XL is a cake walk. As stated above, I drive up onto ramps as it gives some comfortable working room. Put on rubber gloves.  Drain the oil, drop the filter. MAKE SURE THE RUBBER GASKET CAME OFF WITH THE FILTER! Fill your new oil filter, (Wix or AC delco) skim gasket with oil, and install, hand tight then at least half a turn. I install a magnetic oil plug, tighten to correct torque spec ( I snug it good, but nothing crazy). I then brake clean the whole area into my drain pan. Move up top, put in a good dexos oil, I use Penzoil Platinum. My Denali called for 8.5 qts in owners manual, but I read here about a bulletin and it is now 8 qts as per GM. Your almost done. Reset oil monitor, note oil change in you owners manual. I then check tire pressure and top off windshield fluid. I keep a 5 gallon home depot bucket w/ a screw on lid for my used oil. When full recycle at any place that sells oil, or waste management for your area. Put ramps away, feel good that it was done right, no issues, and actually saved a few bucks in the process. Once a year check your air filter, and cabin filter, note in manual. 

 

You would not believe the horror stories on the corvette forum with the Zo6 and the dry sump system. Even at the dealer! My oil change takes 10 minutes to a half hour depending on who's around! LOL I couldn't imagine being one of those stories, I service all of my cars. In warranty cars, I keep the receipt for oil and filter in my manual. 

 

Good luck

 

 

Thanks Jim,

 

The ramp idea is a good one;  I was thinking of buying a set of jack stands but ramps would be just as safe.  I looked at the Rhino ramps on Amazon but the reviews worry me in that pictures of failures and bad reviews show up quickly.  Which ramps do you use.  These from Discount Ramps seem OK.  

 

Also, reading on the Land Cruiser forums regarding oil changes, has anyone used the Femco or Fumoto valves?  It seems since the Suburban plug sits high, these valves would make oil changing much cleaner except for the oil filter.



#12 zfasts03

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 03:23 PM

It will be the easiest oil change ever. Just make sure the drain pan can hold 8 quarts. Filter and plug easy to locate and access. No ramps or jack needed.

 

8 Qts. of 0w-20 Dexos

Pre-fill filter of choice and you are good to go.

Grease two outer tie rod ends in front. 



#13 seamus2154

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 09:28 PM

 

 

Thanks Jim,

 

The ramp idea is a good one;  I was thinking of buying a set of jack stands but ramps would be just as safe.  I looked at the Rhino ramps on Amazon but the reviews worry me in that pictures of failures and bad reviews show up quickly.  Which ramps do you use.  These from Discount Ramps seem OK.  

 

Also, reading on the Land Cruiser forums regarding oil changes, has anyone used the Femco or Fumoto valves?  It seems since the Suburban plug sits high, these valves would make oil changing much cleaner except for the oil filter.

 

I actually use rhino ramps from 8 years ago. Never had an issue the design seems to have changed slightly from then. Most stories are from someone overrunning the ramp or side loading it. Because there is so much height I jam the ramp right into the front of the tire and slowly gas onto the ramp steadily. No jerking or gassing, easy on up never an issue. Listen up if the ramp slides, stop and start over. Good luck



#14 zfasts03

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Posted 01 November 2016 - 08:13 PM

18 ft/lbs. on drain plug or guess it by hand if you don't have a torque wrench. No drain plug washer. It's kinda built in and reusable. 


Edited by zfasts03, 01 November 2016 - 08:14 PM.


#15 ymc226

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Posted 01 November 2016 - 08:29 PM

Thanks Dave. I do have a torque wrench. Crawled under the truck last night. Enough room without lifting it but plan on lifting it for more room.

See your just across the river in Bucks, PA. I'm in Princeton.




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