2016 audio help

livin_lower · January 19, 2017

I have a 2016 Silverado crew cab z71 with factory non bose 8in sceen. I am not new to the car audio world but it has been a while since I have messed with any of it. I will be retaining the factory head unit and splicing into the rear channels of the factory headunit using a audioconrol LC7I, from there I plan on running a rockford fosgate R250x4 to both front and rear door speakers, and a rockford R500x1 to a single 10 under the rear seat. I know the by amplifing the factory head unit people have ran into problems with the factory chimes, I also realize that the front door speakers and dash speakers are all ran off the front channels of the factory head unit, my thoughts are to only replace and amplify the factory door speakers, leaving the dash speakers stock and running of the factory headunit, that way I still will retain my factory chimes and the chimes will not be amplified. Does anyone know how many ohms the factory dash speakers are? I am guessing 8 ohm, if so I see no reason this will not work. I do realize that the output from the dash speakers will be less if that is the case but that does not bother me and they could be replaced for 4ohm at a later time. The only down side I see is my factory fader will not function properly but I can address that in other ways. Does anyone see any other issues with my plan or potential issues. Thank you all.

x219c · January 26, 2017

I have a 2016 Silverado crew cab z71 with factory non bose 8in sceen. I am not new to the car audio world but it has been a while since I have messed with any of it. I will be retaining the factory head unit and splicing into the rear channels of the factory headunit using a audioconrol LC7I, from there I plan on running a rockford fosgate R250x4 to both front and rear door speakers, and a rockford R500x1 to a single 10 under the rear seat. I know the by amplifing the factory head unit people have ran into problems with the factory chimes, I also realize that the front door speakers and dash speakers are all ran off the front channels of the factory head unit, my thoughts are to only replace and amplify the factory door speakers, leaving the dash speakers stock and running of the factory headunit, that way I still will retain my factory chimes and the chimes will not be amplified. Does anyone know how many ohms the factory dash speakers are? I am guessing 8 ohm, if so I see no reason this will not work. I do realize that the output from the dash speakers will be less if that is the case but that does not bother me and they could be replaced for 4ohm at a later time. The only down side I see is my factory fader will not function properly but I can address that in other ways. Does anyone see any other issues with my plan or potential issues. Thank you all.

Sounds like a decent plan to me. Not sure about the ohm rating, though. If you have an ohm meter it shouldn't be hard to check. If you don't, they're not expensive.

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tex85 · January 28, 2017

I have the Silverado LT and kept the factory stereo when I had my system installed. What fuse did you connect your remote wire to? Mine is currently on the radio fuse and I think it's draining my battery. I had to boost it twice last week and I took out the amp fuse and no issues this whole week.

CaptainMcFunk · February 15, 2017

I have the Silverado LT and kept the factory stereo when I had my system installed. What fuse did you connect your remote wire to? Mine is currently on the radio fuse and I think it's draining my battery. I had to boost it twice last week and I took out the amp fuse and no issues this whole week.

There is a RAP under the dash -- Let me find the paragraph I saved for mine that I used as a remote.....

Here it is: If you look under the driver's side dash between the brake pedal and parking brake, you'll see the fuse/relay box (it's about 6" x 10" and has a smooth black plastic cover, just like on the GMT-900's). Pry the clasps on each side to remove. On my SLT there are three main banks, left to right, with the first being unoccupied (see attached pic). The slots within first bank are labeled 1-20, though only 11 actually have male connectors. I used my tester to determine the following: #'s 7 & 17 are constant 12v power [always on], #'s 10 & 11 are grounds, and #8 is the RAP [retained accessory power] ignition signal wire (again, see attached pic)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6p1vcs3rfpfd4p4/Sierra%20Wiring%20Diagram.docx?dl=0

That link should be public, when you open the .docx, you should be able to see the photos. Hope that helps!

tex85 · February 17, 2017

There is a RAP under the dash -- Let me find the paragraph I saved for mine that I used as a remote.....

Here it is: If you look under the driver's side dash between the brake pedal and parking brake, you'll see the fuse/relay box (it's about 6" x 10" and has a smooth black plastic cover, just like on the GMT-900's). Pry the clasps on each side to remove. On my SLT there are three main banks, left to right, with the first being unoccupied (see attached pic). The slots within first bank are labeled 1-20, though only 11 actually have male connectors. I used my tester to determine the following: #'s 7 & 17 are constant 12v power [always on], #'s 10 & 11 are grounds, and #8 is the RAP [retained accessory power] ignition signal wire (again, see attached pic)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6p1vcs3rfpfd4p4/Sierra%20Wiring%20Diagram.docx?dl=0

That link should be public, when you open the .docx, you should be able to see the photos. Hope that helps!

thanks man