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Blower motor doesn't work on high


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My 03 had the blower stop working on the high setting (5) about a year ago. I finally got around to replacing the resistor and it still didnt work on 5. So i ordered another new resistor and a harness pigtail and it still doesnt work on high.

 

When i switch it to 5 the blower turns off and i can hear the resistor make click noise. Like a switch is turning off. I've also checked the 40 amp HVAC dose under the hood and it's good. Ideas?

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You haven't specified which HVAC control unit you have but since these came mainly with the manual HVAC with 2 sliders like this one ( most common ).

 

2016-11-10%2017.23.57_zpsynl6xizb.jpg

 

High speed bypasses the resistor network and sends B+ directly to motor through a relay. If you hear the relay click this means the high speed command has made it through the resistor network. Chances are you have burnt relay contacts, but since new resistor network comes with new relay you can eliminate this as the problem.

 

Screenshot%202017-01-23%2010.35.23_zpsdu

 

If it's not the relay, You are probably going to find pin ( F ) burnt in the back or the female contact in the plug. For reference this pin is the one beside the missing pin.

 

2017-01-23%2009.23.28_zpsk4txrxsr.jpg

 

Manual%20HVAC_zpswfvbw6bc.png

 

It could also be the switch itself of course!!! Easy to take apart and find out or just replace the whole unit if you have a junkyard near by.

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Thank you for the detailed post. What your saying makes sense but since I have a new resistor and a new end that plugs into it i don't see how that could be the issue.

 

The only thing is my plug doesn't look like the one you posted. It's flat with 6 connectors in a row. And yes I've got the manual dual temp like the first picture you posted

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The connector I posted is not at the resistor network end it is at the HVAC module end. Snap the cluster bezel out and remove your HVAC module and check both connectors pin ''F'' next to missing pin ''E''. If they look nice and clean then I assume the actual switch is faulty in the module. If you want me to show you how it comes apart let me know. ( The switch I mean )

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Yes the connector behind the HVAC module. What the hell, I'm retired and got nothing better to do, so for the benefit of others on this forum, here's how that switch comes apart.

 

First undo the two 7/32 screws ( They may be 6mm but the 7/32 socket worked )

 

2017-01-23%2018.35.29_zpsb4kgcqps.jpg

 

Leaves you with this...

 

2017-01-23%2018.36.49_zps4fdbhxfg.jpg

 

Then with a pry tool release the 3 clips...

 

2017-01-23%2018.37.27_zpsrozpwajw.jpg

 

Leaves you with this...

 

2017-01-23%2018.38.36_zpsoldy4rwp.jpg

 

Here's the high speed contact....

 

2017-01-23%20%202_zpsiq1upmrc.jpg

 

This is the wiper, you know it's good if other speeds work.

 

2017-01-23%2018.40.24_zpsheuk0asu.jpg

 

this is the switch seat, only thing there is the spring loaded ball to give you the clicks between positions.

 

2017-01-23%2018.41.27_zps07el3qt3.jpg

 

Now yours will be full of dielectric grease which I removed for graphic purposes. Thank You if this helps anybody.

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Just another idea if you are unable to get your problem resolved. I had a blower motor do pretty much the same thing on a 96 K1500. It would operate intermittent but would not run on the high speed setting. Checked all the wiring and resistors as you have done. Finally got fed up and put a new blower in it. Problem solved and been working ever since.

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So I worked on it a little more today. Put a volatage meter on the wires that go to the resistor. On each setting the respective wire would be 12v. Except the red wire for the high speed. I was only getting 3v on that wire. I changed the fuse under the hood anyway and no change. So my issue is somewhere between the fuse under the hood and where that wire comes out to plug into the resistor. Any ideas where there could be a connection I could check on that wire?

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Screenshot%202017-01-23%2010.35.23_zpsdu

 

 

I had even coloured the wire red in question for you so you would know which was which. lol It even says red on the diagram. I would think ''C4'' of the junction block would be a good place to start.

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