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Jiffy Lube Trans Fliud Exchange-Anyone Try It? Opinions


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I'm in Colorado and the local Jiffy Lube will do a transmission fluid excahnge for $140.00 on my 12 Sierra, 5.3, 6 speed.

They do it via the trans fill/dip stick tube. The machine has 2 tanks, one with the new fluid, one for the old fluid and 2 hoses. They put the hoses into the dip stick tube, start the vehicle and pump in the new while removing the old. Complete fluid change.

 

Anyone have this done?

 

 

 

 

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No. What's the cost for a dealership or fully certified automotive shop to do this? What's their process? I'd need to know those things in order to consider the risk:value of selecting Jiffy Lube.

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My concern would be a) they aren't changing the filter, and b) they may or may not use a multi vehicle ATF, which, as much as the makers of such claim they are "multi vehicle" they really are not quite the same.

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I'm not that familiar with that method.

 

The GM dealership uses the coolant lines. They hook up the feed and return lines to a device that has two bladders. The bottom bladder is filled with fresh dexron fluid and that gets hooked up to the feed line and the other bladder, which sits on top of the fresh bladder gets hooked up to the return line. Then they start the vehicle up and let the transmission pump do the work. As the top bladder gets fluid, the weight of it helps to push the new fluid out into the feed line. Once the bottom bag is close to empty they shut the vehicle off and connect the lines back up to the cooler. They then start it back up and check the level.

 

Now this is how it is done on older models. Not sure on these newer transmission, especially the 8sp. Also the 8sp calls for dexron HP not dexron VI.

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My local dealer wanted $200.00 and is a flush service. The dealer ties into the trans lines at the radiator and runs it backwards through the trans to flush it. I didn't ask if they use a cleaner fluid to back flush. The service writer I spoke to claimed it cleaned the filter also. :nonod:

 

Jiffy said it's Dexron 6 synthetic. :happysad:

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Never use a pressure flush that push fluid backwards. It can dislodge particles that will shorten tranny life.

 

Use the radiator disconnect and let the tranny pump fluid out while adding more. Bag method ideal - but you can add new thru dipstick as well.

 

Not sure of the jiffy method. Can't imagine they can get two hoses down the tube in a way that they can pump in new fluid without sucking it right back out

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

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You're still exchanging worn fluid for new, so its not pointless, just let the dealer do it. General consensus I found was: if you keep up with it (every 50k or so) they reccommend an exchange - it uses the trucks own pump so nothing is blasted back or stirred up too much to cause problems. If you waited a long time, do a drop and fill as filter may be clogged from crud not properly mobilized by old burnt fluid, and a shot of fresh may push it through...

 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

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Always do filter changes with fluid changes......No exceptions

The last time I used Jiffy Lube they installed a new oil filter on too loose and my car had the drips. Luckly I noticed it because another 100 miles or so and I probably would have needed and engine. No more Jiffy Lube for me.

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When I worked at Firestone I had my transmission fluid changed by the cooler lines, also did the cooling system too. Good preventive maintenance.

 

Maybe check with some other shops on their prices then see if the dealer will price match.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm sure there are plenty of good shops to do that sort of work but I definitely wouldn't trust jiffy lube. The guy tried telling me I needed to drain 2 quarts out of the transmission without ever going into the truck to shift through all the gears like with pretty much every other automatic transmission to properly check the fluid. Just stay away from jiffy lube all together. Get a buddy and do the coolant line method at home. It's just a slower way to do the same thing they will do and it'll save you a headache if/when they screw up.

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I strongly recommend against doing the 'pressure flush' or 'reverse flush' method. If you do, you may as well book an appointment for a rebuild the next week. Back flushing causes all kinds of problem which are well documented.

 

The best way is the 'passive flush' method which uses the transmissions own pump to replace the old fluid with new stuff.

 

As far as the filter goes, here is where many will disagree with me; Trans filters don't need to be changed like engine oil filters do. They don't get contaminated like engine oil filters do. The key with a transmission is that the fluid is kept in good shape. The only way a trans filter is going to get plugged up is if there is component deterioration in the trans itself. If that is happening, changing the filter is moot, because you're getting a rebuild in the near future anyways.

Component deterioration isn't affected by the filter, but rather by the fluid condition and driving habits.

 

For the average person; Change the fluid every 75 to 150k miles depending on type of loads put on the trans. Change the filter every 2nd or 3rd flush.

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