Hi All. I know this topic has been touched on numerous times now, but I thought I would add my two cents on the Rough Country 3.5" Lift and my experience. I wanted to create this post for other who may have the same lift and need some guidance on what to expect and what to do to correct the known issues. This is for a 2008 Chevy Suburban LT/Tahoe LTZ. I am sure this will apply to Avalanche as well, but may give other vehicle owners a starting point. Plus, I have not found this information on the internet anywhere.
I purchased this lift for a friend to lift her 2008 Chevy Tahoe with Auto Ride. I knew it wasn't made for Auto Ride, but i did an Auto Ride delete. After all, thinking base suspension, resetting to stock is a no brainer. However, I questioned some things that did not seem right during the installation namely the knuckles. The UCA's that came with the kit were tough enough, however, they sat at a 45 degree angle. Setting caster could not be done. She had a budget and I did what I could under her budget. Also, the front axles were almost at max angle too.
Well, I have a 2008 Chevy Suburban without Auto Ride, and I wanted the same lift for my vehicle. I bought the lift, but what I did different was that I also purchased Skyjacker 3.5 - 4" lifted knuckles. The cost was $671 and you have to contact Skyjacker to purchase them separate from their kit. This solved the UCA angle problem and brought it back to stock spec. It also brought the front axle angles back to to stock spec as well. Then three new problems arose. One, toe could not be set and the wheels were way out of whack. Two, as mentioned in other posts, camber/caster could not be set because the new knuckles have an offset neck. This cause the tires to stick out at the top, and maxes out the UCA within the bracket. Three, when installing bigger tires, one side sticks out farther in the rear toward the passenger side, and the driver side is tucked in.
Fixing issue one: I had to modify the outer tie rods by having 1" cut off with a chop saw. I went to a muffler shop and they did it for free. Then I realized I still did not have enough adjustment, so I cut off half an inch of the tie rod itself. This preserved integrity but also gave me what I needed in terms of toe in/out adjustment. The new lift knuckles tie rod side of the knuckle curves in, whereas stock is straight.
Fixing issue two: Purchasing and installing offset ball joints into the UCA's to correct the camber/caster issue created by the new lift knuckles. When I realized the problem, right away, the camber is just "almost" there but not quite. As mentioned in other posts, you will run on the outer edge of your tires. By installing this part it restores camber/caster adjustment by pulling the UCA "out" from maxed in position allowing for adjustment. Offset Ball joints do not exist for a 2008 Chevy Suburban 1500. I contacted Rough Country and they gave me the part number to their UCA's Moog K6540 (standard ball joint). After doing some digging, I realized that the K6540 ball joint fitment is for Chevy 2000-2006 vehicles. Well, Moog makes an offset ball joint for the 2000-2006 Chevy Suburban 1500. So, long story short, purchasing the off set ball joint will work with the RC 3.5" UCA's provided in their kit as it is geared, at least socket wise for the 2000-2006 ball joints. Camber/caster problem solved. Moog part # K100116 gives for 3 degrees caster/camber or both.
Fixing issue three: Purchasing an adjustable track bar allows for the rear wheels to be evened out. The stock track bar is not adjustable. This might not matter to some people, however, you can get the dog leg effect where the rear of the vehicle does not drive in a straight line with the front of the vehicle. Spohn makes one for my vehicle and it costs around $125.
You will need to cut the UCA bracket before UCA installation if you decide to go with these parts mentioned above. I am a newb, not to working on vehicles, but to doing lifts. The lift I did on my vehicle is my only second one. The lift itself is straight forward. I added new tail lights, headlights, fender flares (Had to get the ones made for the Chevy Avalanche,as they do not make the pocket style for suburban), tinted windows (3M 20%front, 35% rear over stock tint), dual cat back exhaust w/flowmaster super 10 and 18" tips. I ran with an 18" 10 ply GoodYear Wrangler Duratrac Tire, and a 18" Fuel Vapor D569 wheel with -12 offset. My project is almost complete as of today. I still have to trim my bumper and running boards for tire clearance.
I hope this helps someone. I wish I had this information sooner myself.
Hello everyone, welcome to my build thread! This thread will be updated as I go. If you have any questions and/or concerns, feel free to comment below or PM me. Thanks, I hope y’all like it!
At the same time, I’m also trying to find a fix to a lot of issues with the truck. Many that others are experiencing as well, and some that seem to be isolated, so stay tuned. I’d love to hear your solutions to common problems found on our trucks.
The story began when I brought her home on the night of January 3rd, 2017...
Current Mods (as of 01/08/2017):
- Black factory Bow Ties
- 20% Suntek Films tint on front windows
- 65% tint on windshield
- AuxBeam LED Low Beams, High Beams, and Fog Lights
- AuxBeam 3" LED RGB Cubes
- MHtech LED Reverse Bulbs
- MHtech LED Cargo Bulbs
- Adaptive Valve left open with picture frame wire until I do my exhaust
- Rear Wheel Valence delete
- Step Bar delete
- AIRAID MIT + K&N HIGH FLOW FILTER
- Hankook Ventus ST RH06 285/45/R22
- 5% tint all around
- 50% Windshield tint + 5% strip
- Front Valence Delete
- Color Matched Bumpers
- New Generation Tow Mirrors
- Rear Window 3-Piece to Single-Piece conversion
- Flowmaster 40 Series Original, resonator and flapper delete
- K&N cabin air filter
- Oil Catch Can
- CAI Enclosed Box
- Diablo inTune i3 (or Trinity)
- Rear Traction Bars
- High performance driveshaft
- License Plate LED bulbs
- Footwell LED Lighting, Front & Rear
- 30” LED light bar behind grille
- Bose (or Focal) Audio Upgrade with a ported 10” subwoofer
- Escort Passport radar detector
- Blackvue front and rear dash cams
- 3.5” Lift Kit
- 20x10 -24 Fuel Maverick D610
- 33s (haven’t decided what type of tire or brand I’m going with yet)
- Running on Castrol High Performance Full Synthetic Oil
- Fueled with 93 Octane
Limitless Car Care (coupon code in signature)
- Waterless Wipe
- Swift Shine
- Gold Class Shampoo & Conditioner
- Hot Shine tire coating
- Interior Original Protectant
- Formula 88 Cleaner & Degreaser
- WD-40 (gives my black hitch a nice little Shine, hides the rust marks from my trailer coupling)
Tools I Use
- Fasmov Foam Cannon
- Microfiber Sponge and Towels
- Leaf Blower followed by a microfiber dry
Congratulations on making it this far, I’m proud of you. LOL.
Picked up a new GMC 2017 Duramax 2500HD that came leveled with 2.5-inch shock extensions, new torsion keys and 20x9 Fuel wheels w/ 305 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. With this setup do I need to be concerned with CV angles?
Would adding UCA’s and new shocks improve things? If so, what option would you suggest? Cognito, CST, Fabtech… Bilstein, Fox... This truck will spend most of it's time on the road with only short offlroad runs to and from the trail head.
I’d consider a proper 4-6” lift cranked down with 35’s but I’m worried about fitting into my parking structure. Also, I already have the 305’s and don’t want the wheel well gap or to worry about selling the 305’s. Currently the truck sits at about 80 inches; the same height as my buddy’s raptor that fits the parking structure with not much room to spare.
How tall are you guys running a 4-6” lift on 35’s? Anybody running 4-6” on 33’s?
Anybody have any feedback on the 3-6" S.T.L. High Clearance lift kit from CST? Also, for the cost of the 3-6” lift w/ a decent shock option, why not go with the coilover conversion from BDS?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Hi guys. I've been searching and can't find a definitive answer. I have a 2015 GMC Sierra Z71 4WD. I am installing a RC 2.5" Level and running 20X9 rims with a +18 offset. My question is, what is the biggest tire I can run without rubbing. I like the wheel well to be filled up and filled out. I was looking at 295/60 but I'm not sure if it will rub. Please help me out!
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