Hi All. I know this topic has been touched on numerous times now, but I thought I would add my two cents on the Rough Country 3.5" Lift and my experience. I wanted to create this post for other who may have the same lift and need some guidance on what to expect and what to do to correct the known issues. This is for a 2008 Chevy Suburban LT/Tahoe LTZ. I am sure this will apply to Avalanche as well, but may give other vehicle owners a starting point. Plus, I have not found this information on the internet anywhere.
I purchased this lift for a friend to lift her 2008 Chevy Tahoe with Auto Ride. I knew it wasn't made for Auto Ride, but i did an Auto Ride delete. After all, thinking base suspension, resetting to stock is a no brainer. However, I questioned some things that did not seem right during the installation namely the knuckles. The UCA's that came with the kit were tough enough, however, they sat at a 45 degree angle. Setting caster could not be done. She had a budget and I did what I could under her budget. Also, the front axles were almost at max angle too.
Well, I have a 2008 Chevy Suburban without Auto Ride, and I wanted the same lift for my vehicle. I bought the lift, but what I did different was that I also purchased Skyjacker 3.5 - 4" lifted knuckles. The cost was $671 and you have to contact Skyjacker to purchase them separate from their kit. This solved the UCA angle problem and brought it back to stock spec. It also brought the front axle angles back to to stock spec as well. Then three new problems arose. One, toe could not be set and the wheels were way out of whack. Two, as mentioned in other posts, camber/caster could not be set because the new knuckles have an offset neck. This cause the tires to stick out at the top, and maxes out the UCA within the bracket. Three, when installing bigger tires, one side sticks out farther in the rear toward the passenger side, and the driver side is tucked in.
Fixing issue one: I had to modify the outer tie rods by having 1" cut off with a chop saw. I went to a muffler shop and they did it for free. Then I realized I still did not have enough adjustment, so I cut off half an inch of the tie rod itself. This preserved integrity but also gave me what I needed in terms of toe in/out adjustment. The new lift knuckles tie rod side of the knuckle curves in, whereas stock is straight.
Fixing issue two: Purchasing and installing offset ball joints into the UCA's to correct the camber/caster issue created by the new lift knuckles. When I realized the problem, right away, the camber is just "almost" there but not quite. As mentioned in other posts, you will run on the outer edge of your tires. By installing this part it restores camber/caster adjustment by pulling the UCA "out" from maxed in position allowing for adjustment. The part number from MOOG RK100215 Driver side and MOOG RK100214 Passenger side. (Cost: $137 per UCA depending on where it is purchased). These UCA's come with the offset ball joint. I took mine in to Tire Rama, and because it is a "specialty" part, they installed my part without issue. Tire Rama was very cheap. I paid $162 for the install and $81 for the alignment. (This may vary based on your location) Everything is now fixed and aligned without further issue or worry. (NOTE: The RC UCA's did not work on my application. The cup on the RC UCA is too deep to accommodate the offset ball joint.)
Fixing issue three: Purchasing an adjustable track bar allows for the rear wheels to be evened out. The stock track bar is not adjustable. This might not matter to some people, however, you can get the dog leg effect where the rear of the vehicle does not drive in a straight line with the front of the vehicle. Spohn makes one for my vehicle and it costs around $125.
You will need to cut the UCA bracket before UCA installation if you decide to go with these parts mentioned above. I am a newb, not to working on vehicles, but to doing lifts. The lift I did on my vehicle is my only second one. The lift itself is straight forward. I added new tail lights, headlights, fender flares (Had to get the ones made for the Chevy Avalanche,as they do not make the pocket style for suburban), tinted windows (3M 20%front, 35% rear over stock tint), dual cat back exhaust w/flowmaster super 10 and 18" tips. I ran with an 18" 10 ply GoodYear Wrangler Duratrac Tire, and a 18" Fuel Vapor D569 wheel with -12 offset. My project is almost complete as of today, all that is left is to tune it.
I hope this helps someone. I wish I had this information sooner myself.
By Perry Lawson
Hey guys, first post here! I am looking at lifting my 2015 1500 Z71 4x4 and started out by looking at leveling kits and then progressed to a 3.5" lift kit and then just decided to do the Fabtech 4" budget kit but I have a question, the strut spacers only look like they are 2" or so tall and I was concerned that this lift isn't a true 4" lift kit. Also I was concerned that the control arms don't adjust the ball joint angles because they look like they have the same geometry as stock.
If any of yall have experience with this lift kit could you let me know if it is a true 4'' lift in the front or does it just bring it level bc the strut spacers don't look like they would give 4". I was turned onto this kit bc of the price and the 4" height but now I have concerns whether or not it is a true 4"
I have a 2014 Sierra 1500. I am due for new tires so I am going to go a size bigger and keep the stock rims (265/65r18 to 275/65/r18). Before I do this, I plan on changing out all of the shocks and installing the bilstein 5100's. I figured this was the best option for ride quality, while still being able to add a little extra height to the truck without putting too much stress on any other parts. My question is, has anyone set the front shocks to the height setting (is there any downside to this?) and then the rear to the highest setting (1"). If so, can does this still create enough rake to give the truck a leveled look when pulling a trailer? I dont like the nose high look.
Looking for any recommendations on what i should set the shocks to in order to achieve more height on the truck, but be able to tow without the nose being higher than the back. Include pictures if you have them!
I am also assuming i should get an alignment after installing the shocks and new tires right?
Hello everyone, welcome to my build thread! This thread will be updated as I go. If you have any questions and/or concerns, feel free to comment below or PM me. Thanks, I hope y’all like it!
At the same time, I’m also trying to find a fix to a lot of issues with the truck. Many that others are experiencing as well, and some that seem to be isolated, so stay tuned. I’d love to hear your solutions to common problems found on our trucks.
The story began when I brought her home on the night of January 3rd, 2017...
Current Mods (as of 04/08/2018):
- Black factory Bow Ties
- 20% Suntek Films tint on front windows
- 65% tint on windshield
- AuxBeam LED Low Beams, High Beams, and Fog Lights
- MHtech LED Reverse Bulbs
- MHtech LED Cargo Bulbs
- Flowmaster 40 Series Original + resonator Delete.
- Rear Wheel Valence delete
- Step Bar delete
- Front Valence Delete
- AIRAID MIT + K&N HIGH FLOW FILTER
- Hankook Ventus ST RH06 285/45/R22
- RGB LED Footwell lighting
- LED License plate bulbs
- 5% over 20% tint all around
- 45% Windshield tint
- Front Valence Delete
- Color Matched Bumpers
- New Generation Tow Mirrors
- Rear Window 3-Piece to Single-Piece conversion
- K&N cabin air filter
- Oil Catch Can
- CAI Enclosed Box
- Diablo inTune i3 (or Trinity)
- Rear Traction Bars
- High performance driveshaft
- 30” LED light bar behind grille
- LTZ Style Black projector headlights with clear turn signal lenses
- Audio Upgrade with a ported 10” subwoofer
- Escort Passport radar detector
- Blackvue front and rear dash cams
- 3.5” Lift Kit
- 20x12 -44 Fuel Maverick D610
- 305/50r20 Nitto 420s
- Running on Castrol High Performance Full Synthetic Oil
- Fueled with 93 Octane
Limitless Car Care (coupon code in signature)
- Waterless Wipe
- Swift Shine
- Gold Class Shampoo & Conditioner
- Hot Shine tire coating
- Interior Original Protectant
- Formula 88 Cleaner & Degreaser
- Lexol Leather cleaner and conditioner for my leather seats
Tools I Use
- Fasmov Foam Cannon
- Microfiber Sponge and Towels
- Leaf Blower followed by a microfiber dry
Congratulations on making it this far, I’m proud of you. LOL.
By Texas Suburban Trucker
I'm wanting to put some nice looking Beadlock wheels on it with some 33-35 inch Tires, for my next upgrade. (220,000 miles so far)
I would like some advice on what tire would fit while turning full lock to lock without Rubbing. I'm installing the big fender flairs from Bushwacker, that require cutting the fenders, these add 4-5 inches in width. Have a 4 inch lift in front and a 2 inch lift in the rear. (Rancho Suspension lift) I will drive this everyday on and off the farm (tends to get pretty muddy after a rain), as well as on and off road trips. Maybe even some storm chasing.
I'm leaning towards these wheels:
ATX SERIES BLACK AX757 CHAMBER PRO II WHEELS 17x9, 8x6.5, with the BF Goodrich KO2 Tires.
Here is a link with the details. http://www.americanracingequipment.ca/wheel/33130/ax757-chamber-pro-ii
How big of tire can I put on and NOT have any Rubbing? If the Tire sticks out no big deal the fender flairs will cover tires 4-5 inches outside the fenders.
If there are better suited wheels AND tires for this Truck feel free to add that information. This is an expensive upgrade especially since the Drivetrain has also been replaced or rebuilt and upgraded.
Looking for some well thought out honest advice.
I need to run a Grade 8 Tire as I haul my Tractor for service, and I also want the ability to air down for more traction if necessary. The wheels are 17x9. (See Link Above) I would like a strong, capable long lasting Tire for the duties listed above.
I will answer any questions you have of me.
Thanks in advance,
Texas Suburban Trucker
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 110 Members, 2 Anonymous, 481 Guests (See full list)
- Xpensive Chevy
- Nick Jacobs
- Chris Talbot
- Bayou Blues
- Scott Fish
- Dan Foley