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And for what its worth as an ASE master tech for 26 years I break mine in generally how I plan to drive them which for me is mostly city and pretty aggressively. I try to avoid panic stops and do not tow for the first 1000 miles to give the brakes and diff gears a chance to bed in but other than that just as I would normally. I have no problem with full throttle during break in as was said they load the crap out of them right off the line. I also change the oil according to the OLM right from the get go. My 14 has 22,000 on it and was broke in this way and doesn't use a drop of oil. My 17 should be here any time and will be broken in the same way.

 

FWIW When we dynoed my drag cars motor fresh from assembly we just put a light load on it just above idle until it came up to temp. Then it was full throttle full load pull. After the second pull you could actually see the rings seating in as both HP and TQ went up slightly across the board and crankcase vacuum improved. That thing is flogged on harder than my truck ever will be and after 600 1/4 mile drag strip passes the rings and bearings look perfect even running with no air cleaner. My thinking is after the first few full throttle blasts the rings are either seated or they aren't, baby them too much and they may not seat properly.

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A note to all, we should have data to release before long of almost 2 years of oil analysis on a fleet of new GDI vehicles that shows you ONLY want to use a FULL synthetic oil as the dealer free oil changes of the Dexos rated blend results in as much as 3 times the rate and severity of coking deposits forming on the valves! And, use of the Elite E2-X and E2-X Ultra systems will allow you to extend oil change intervals as it removes much of the contaminates that overwhelm the engine oil reducing it's ability to protect. Wear is also reduced by removing the raw fuel and other damaging particulate matter entering as blow-by. And fuel economy improvement from reducing knock retard. Also, do NOT baby that engine during the first few hundred miles! Follow this procedure from GM to properly seat rings to avoid oil consumption issues:

 

GM%20break%20in%20procedure_zpszw5vzv7q.

 

The way I have done this for over 40 years is in second gear on a back road, from a roll of say 25MPH full throttle to 5k RPM and allow the engine to brake it back down. Do this 4-6 times and this loads the rings properly allowing them to abrade into the shape of the cylinder wall well before the hard glaze sets in and covers the hone pattern.

This!

 

This is what I've been saying to anyone that will listen for over 10 years now; you have to seat those rings when that engine is brand new and you only have a ~20 minute window to do it.

Every vehicle I've had, I have done a version of this and it has served me well. I get good fuel mileage, good power and long engine life.

 

I'm glad to see this right from GM, as it confirms what many have known for years.

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If you watch Walmart.com and Amazon.com, you can get 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 for $20 with free shipping...I ordered 20 jugs last year to replace my waning stash of Schaeffers.

 

I also marked a full synthetic, dexos-certified 5w30 (milesyn?) in a 5 gallon pail for something like $60 with free shipping from Amazon. Has good reviews...

 

MILES LUBRICANTS

4.8 out of 5 stars 7 Reviews

Milesyn SXR 5W30 API GF-5/SN Dexos1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5 Gallon Pail

$65

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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A note to all, we should have data to release before long of almost 2 years of oil analysis on a fleet of new GDI vehicles that shows you ONLY want to use a FULL synthetic oil as the dealer free oil changes of the Dexos rated blend results in as much as 3 times the rate and severity of coking deposits forming on the valves! And, use of the Elite E2-X and E2-X Ultra systems will allow you to extend oil change intervals as it removes much of the contaminates that overwhelm the engine oil reducing it's ability to protect. Wear is also reduced by removing the raw fuel and other damaging particulate matter entering as blow-by. And fuel economy improvement from reducing knock retard. Also, do NOT baby that engine during the first few hundred miles! Follow this procedure from GM to properly seat rings to avoid oil consumption issues:

 

GM%20break%20in%20procedure_zpszw5vzv7q.

 

The way I have done this for over 40 years is in second gear on a back road, from a roll of say 25MPH full throttle to 5k RPM and allow the engine to brake it back down. Do this 4-6 times and this loads the rings properly allowing them to abrade into the shape of the cylinder wall well before the hard glaze sets in and covers the hone pattern.

This is all and fine if you are lucky enough to get a new vehicle that just got backed off the car carrier and nobody else has driven it. But unlike most. What is on the lot has been test drove by others and who knows how they drove them.

 

We have been lucky and all our new vehicles have served us well in the engine department and no oil consumption issues.

 

Also I have purchased two vehicles that came from other dealerships and were drove in from there so they had that mileage on them to start. One was over 200 miles away and the other was 60 which was my Camaro. So I didn't get to "break-in" like I would have liked too.

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I lived near Detroit in the 60, 70's. Had relatives who worked for the big 3.

Still have relatives working for them.

One started as the person that drove the vehicles off the assembly line to the parking lot for shipment.

​According to them the way the car was driven varied by the driver, makes sense.

The sports cars being tested of course.

 

They were schooled on the proper way to do this job, but. :happysad:

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I have a new LTZ 5.3 on the way and never thought to take cost of oil changes into account - not that it would have factored in to my decision. Anyway, what are others seeing as far as cost of oil changes given the 0W-20 requirements? And, how many here subscribe to the view that the initial oil change should come soon after the break-in period? Dealers always have a special they tout but that's always for 5 qts of dino. Thanks.

To the original poster.....I changed mine at 1000 miles and hopefully you change yours something like that 1000-2000 but don't go much past it.......I am not that big into all this stuff anyway it's just when I dumped mine I inspected the oil and was actually amazed at how much metal was in pan seriously looked like I was mining for silver.......Would it damage my engine? would the filter catch it? Or was it all just crap settled on bottom of pan? Maybe but after that I am going 10K on changes....

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This!

 

This is what I've been saying to anyone that will listen for over 10 years now; you have to seat those rings when that engine is brand new and you only have a ~20 minute window to do it.

Every vehicle I've had, I have done a version of this and it has served me well. I get good fuel mileage, good power and long engine life.

 

I'm glad to see this right from GM, as it confirms what many have known for years.

Again, this applies to crate motors. Any new vehicle will have at least 20 minutes on the motor before the new owner ever turns the key.....and the rings are seated before it leaves the factory; not so with crate motors.

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Again, this applies to crate motors. Any new vehicle will have at least 20 minutes on the motor before the new owner ever turns the key.....and the rings are seated before it leaves the factory; not so with crate motors.

Absolutely false. I thinkk someone has given you untriue information. I worked for GM and can tell you no ring seating is performed. There is a brief "systems running check" performed but that is all and one in every 50-100 or so are run through a bot harder test to look for issues, but the only running at the factory is to check proper function of systems. Never a WOT series of running. Someone I assume has misled you into believing this. I am an Automotive engineer with over 40 years working in the industry, and only the supercars get factory ring seating, both on engine dyno and then test track. NO production vehicles have any ring seating performed. And that instruction is with all engines when new. Black02silverado is correct though in his statement. Do a Google search on "GM Truck engines with oil consumption issues" and see, and we tear down newer engines all the time to determine the causes of excessive oil consumption, and in most cases it is clear to see the cross hatch hone pattern covered by the hard glaze well before seating could occur. Also, using a 0w20 oil is ONLY for the manufacturer to meet Cafe fuel economy standards...it is NOT the best for protection of the engine. Run a 10w30 for best protection unless used for severe duty, then a 10w40 is a better choice. Rings cannot seat properly (except in lucky occasions) without properly loading them equally with both hard acceleration and deceleration (engine braking) as described. Of course, you paid for your vehicle so by all means do as you feel comfortable, but make sure to not spread any untrue rumors or assumptions for those that do care to break in and care for their vehicle the best way possible. Do a Google search on proper ring seating as well and find articles and white papers on everything from Motor Cycles to aircraft engines and see the consensus.

 

GDI engines are subject also to many times the volume of raw fuel passing the piston rings and entering the crankcase. This washdown contributed to wear and the oil dilution reduces it's ability to properly protect as formulated. Also, the abrasive particulate matter entering as blow-by is not the "soft" carbon of port injection engines where it did little actual damage. GDI deposits are a hard abrasive material that as it sheds and enters the crankcase remains abrasive not unlike a small amount of sand put in it. These engines are subject to many engine wear issues port injections never were, so caring for them properly is critical.

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To the original poster.....I changed mine at 1000 miles and hopefully you change yours something like that 1000-2000 but don't go much past it.......I am not that big into all this stuff anyway it's just when I dumped mine I inspected the oil and was actually amazed at how much metal was in pan seriously looked like I was mining for silver.......Would it damage my engine? would the filter catch it? Or was it all just crap settled on bottom of pan? Maybe but after that I am going 10K on changes....

I urge anyone with their first oil change to cut their filter and examine in the pleats to see just how much debris and metal is contained, and filters only trap down to 10-15 microns in particulate size, so I could never imagine leaving factory filled oil in longer than 500-1000 miles. You can purchase a filter cutter on Jegs or similar.

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GDI engines are subject also to many times the volume of raw fuel passing the piston rings and entering the crankcase. This washdown contributed to wear and the oil dilution reduces it's ability to properly protect as formulated. Also, the abrasive particulate matter entering as blow-by is not the "soft" carbon of port injection engines where it did little actual damage. GDI deposits are a hard abrasive material that as it sheds and enters the crankcase remains abrasive not unlike a small amount of sand put in it. These engines are subject to many engine wear issues port injections never were, so caring for them properly is critical.

 

I think this makes sense.....It starting to make more sense now and these GDI do require more attention maintenance from owner etc!

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I would caution against making a blanket statement about changing oil viscosity as mentioned a couple posts earlier. While it is true thicker oils can provide more film strength there are other variables to consider. While CAFE standards are pushing most manufacturers to thinner oils that isn't the only consideration Most modern engines have gone to variable valve timing and direct injection and many engines utilize oil pressure as a means of controlling these functions. Chryslers will actually set a fault code and a MIL (check engine light) if you use the wrong oil. I would bet other manufacturers will be following suit. The engines in the trucks also use a 2 stage oil pump and the clearances are set up for the thinner oil. With tight clearances and thick oil it is also possible to not get enough oil flow across the bearing.

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Absolutely false. I thinkk someone has given you untriue information. I worked for GM and can tell you no ring seating is performed. There is a brief "systems running check" performed but that is all and one in every 50-100 or so are run through a bot harder test to look for issues, but the only running at the factory is to check proper function of systems. Never a WOT series of running. Someone I assume has misled you into believing this. I am an Automotive engineer with over 40 years working in the industry, and only the supercars get factory ring seating, both on engine dyno and then test track. NO production vehicles have any ring seating performed. And that instruction is with all engines when new. Black02silverado is correct though in his statement. Do a Google search on "GM Truck engines with oil consumption issues" and see, and we tear down newer engines all the time to determine the causes of excessive oil consumption, and in most cases it is clear to see the cross hatch hone pattern covered by the hard glaze well before seating could occur. Also, using a 0w20 oil is ONLY for the manufacturer to meet Cafe fuel economy standards...it is NOT the best for protection of the engine. Run a 10w30 for best protection unless used for severe duty, then a 10w40 is a better choice. Rings cannot seat properly (except in lucky occasions) without properly loading them equally with both hard acceleration and deceleration (engine braking) as described. Of course, you paid for your vehicle so by all means do as you feel comfortable, but make sure to not spread any untrue rumors or assumptions for those that do care to break in and care for their vehicle the best way possible. Do a Google search on proper ring seating as well and find articles and white papers on everything from Motor Cycles to aircraft engines and see the consensus.

 

GDI engines are subject also to many times the volume of raw fuel passing the piston rings and entering the crankcase. This washdown contributed to wear and the oil dilution reduces it's ability to properly protect as formulated. Also, the abrasive particulate matter entering as blow-by is not the "soft" carbon of port injection engines where it did little actual damage. GDI deposits are a hard abrasive material that as it sheds and enters the crankcase remains abrasive not unlike a small amount of sand put in it. These engines are subject to many engine wear issues port injections never were, so caring for them properly is critical.

Easy now. I certainly didn't intend to insult your or anyone's intelligence here. Yes you do have a lot of experience and it appears you do know what you're talking about and thanks for sharing but you probably should think a bit before reacting and attempting to call someone out. I've broken in just a few engines myself ranging from Lycomings in airplanes, LS and LSX motors but without feeling the need of credentialing myself, I'm not misleading nor would I mislead anyone or spread rumors for that matter. What you're saying is true; acceleration/deceleration to put a load in both directions on the rings, 0W-20 oil mainly for economy etc. I don't however believe in breaking in a new engine with synthetic oil. Blend or Dino? Yes. I'm hoping that you know that technology in the manufacturing process is nothing like it was 40 years ago and that tolerances have changed along with the composition of the metals used. I never said that the factory did run the engines in the manner that you feel they need to be run either. I said that the "rings are seated". If you put an EGT at each port on an engine in a new vehicle sitting at a dealer lot, I know you won't see a change in EGT at given manifold pressures after the perceived break in. The 20 minute rule? that's been done by the time the owner takes delivery. Don't over think the break in as was needed 40 years ago.

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Absolutely false. I thinkk someone has given you untriue information. I worked for GM and can tell you no ring seating is performed. There is a brief "systems running check" performed but that is all and one in every 50-100 or so are run through a bot harder test to look for issues, but the only running at the factory is to check proper function of systems. Never a WOT series of running. Someone I assume has misled you into believing this. I am an Automotive engineer with over 40 years working in the industry, and only the supercars get factory ring seating, both on engine dyno and then test track. NO production vehicles have any ring seating performed. And that instruction is with all engines when new. Black02silverado is correct though in his statement. Do a Google search on "GM Truck engines with oil consumption issues" and see, and we tear down newer engines all the time to determine the causes of excessive oil consumption, and in most cases it is clear to see the cross hatch hone pattern covered by the hard glaze well before seating could occur. Also, using a 0w20 oil is ONLY for the manufacturer to meet Cafe fuel economy standards...it is NOT the best for protection of the engine. Run a 10w30 for best protection unless used for severe duty, then a 10w40 is a better choice. Rings cannot seat properly (except in lucky occasions) without properly loading them equally with both hard acceleration and deceleration (engine braking) as described. Of course, you paid for your vehicle so by all means do as you feel comfortable, but make sure to not spread any untrue rumors or assumptions for those that do care to break in and care for their vehicle the best way possible. Do a Google search on proper ring seating as well and find articles and white papers on everything from Motor Cycles to aircraft engines and see the consensus.

 

GDI engines are subject also to many times the volume of raw fuel passing the piston rings and entering the crankcase. This washdown contributed to wear and the oil dilution reduces it's ability to properly protect as formulated. Also, the abrasive particulate matter entering as blow-by is not the "soft" carbon of port injection engines where it did little actual damage. GDI deposits are a hard abrasive material that as it sheds and enters the crankcase remains abrasive not unlike a small amount of sand put in it. These engines are subject to many engine wear issues port injections never were, so caring for them properly is critical.

I disagree on changing to higher viscosity oil too. But do what you feel is best for you.

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