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Easy now. I certainly didn't intend to insult your or anyone's intelligence here. Yes you do have a lot of experience and it appears you do know what you're talking about and thanks for sharing but you probably should think a bit before reacting and attempting to call someone out. I've broken in just a few engines myself ranging from Lycomings in airplanes, LS and LSX motors but without feeling the need of credentialing myself, I'm not misleading nor would I mislead anyone or spread rumors for that matter. What you're saying is true; acceleration/deceleration to put a load in both directions on the rings, 0W-20 oil mainly for economy etc. I don't however believe in breaking in a new engine with synthetic oil. Blend or Dino? Yes. I'm hoping that you know that technology in the manufacturing process is nothing like it was 40 years ago and that tolerances have changed along with the composition of the metals used. I never said that the factory did run the engines in the manner that you feel they need to be run either. I said that the "rings are seated". If you put an EGT at each port on an engine in a new vehicle sitting at a dealer lot, I know you won't see a change in EGT at given manifold pressures after the perceived break in. The 20 minute rule? that's been done by the time the owner takes delivery. Don't over think the break in as was needed 40 years ago.

 

Amen – Apply your 2017 owner’s manual break-in procedures to the new tech. Which we all know reads to vary speeds and no towing for the first 500 miles. This is also for break-in of the transmission and differentials. Also no hard stops with the brakes for 200 miles.

 

In 1980 I did buy a 350 GM crate engine and put it in a 1940 Ford PU. Not knowing anything about break-in just drove it normally from day one. Would had been better off if I had a lead foot, always have been more of a cruiser. That engine fouled plugs for the first few hundred miles until it finally broke in. After that it was one of the sweetest running engines I ever had back in the day – but no thanks to my lack of old skool break-in procedures.

 

Fast forward to 2012 when I inherit my grandparent’s 1962 Dodge Dart wagon that sat for 20 years. Got it running but it had a lot of blow-by. Had the 318 V-8 solid lifter engine rebuilt at an old skool rebuild shop in 2015. Researched old skool engine break-in on this newfangled thing we have now called the internet. Followed the procedure listed below – and that engine now has 2,000 some miles on it since the rebuild, and never fouled a plug.

 

New Engine Break-In:

 

BRAD PENN 30W break-in oil

 

Prime oil pump manually.

 

Start and run at 1500 RPM high idle for 30 mins. Set timing. Let cool off.

 

First test drive: Accelerate from 30mph to 50mph and decelerate rapidly. Repeat 10 times.

 

First 500 miles drive normally, but not at continuous high speeds or heavy loads.

 

Change break-In oil at 500 miles.

 

BRAD PENN 10W/30 PENN-GRADE 1 High Performance Oil (“Partial Synthetic”)

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Easy now. I certainly didn't intend to insult your or anyone's intelligence here. Yes you do have a lot of experience and it appears you do know what you're talking about and thanks for sharing but you probably should think a bit before reacting and attempting to call someone out. I've broken in just a few engines myself ranging from Lycomings in airplanes, LS and LSX motors but without feeling the need of credentialing myself, I'm not misleading nor would I mislead anyone or spread rumors for that matter. What you're saying is true; acceleration/deceleration to put a load in both directions on the rings, 0W-20 oil mainly for economy etc. I don't however believe in breaking in a new engine with synthetic oil. Blend or Dino? Yes. I'm hoping that you know that technology in the manufacturing process is nothing like it was 40 years ago and that tolerances have changed along with the composition of the metals used. I never said that the factory did run the engines in the manner that you feel they need to be run either. I said that the "rings are seated". If you put an EGT at each port on an engine in a new vehicle sitting at a dealer lot, I know you won't see a change in EGT at given manifold pressures after the perceived break in. The 20 minute rule? that's been done by the time the owner takes delivery. Don't over think the break in as was needed 40 years ago.

No intention of insulting, my apologies if I came off that way. And best for break-in/ring seating we always have used Shell Rottella conventional and before that Wolf's Head back 30-40 years ago. So I am definitely with you on NOT using synthetics for ring seating, they just protect to well to allow lubrication barrier penetration, and rings have to abrade into the shape of the cylinder walls. As a GM tech, the break-in instructions are available to any GM techs for new or replacement engines. Back in the 70's when I first started with GM, oil change intervals were 1500 miles. A "break-in" oil was the factory fill, and it was just enough protection to keep bearings and journals damage free if driven easy and 1000 miles was break-in period. Rings would seat in the first few hundred miles and you HAD to change to a regular oil at the 1000 miles mark. Today the emphasis has been on low maintenance, so to compete with each other the first oil change recommendation has gotten longer and longer, mainly for marketing purposes only. It is so hard for the average consumer to sort through all the "PR SPIN" and know what is the best and proper for their new vehicles.

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Amen – Apply your 2017 owner’s manual break-in procedures to the new tech. Which we all know reads to vary speeds and no towing for the first 500 miles. This is also for break-in of the transmission and differentials. Also no hard stops with the brakes for 200 miles.

 

In 1980 I did buy a 350 GM crate engine and put it in a 1940 Ford PU. Not knowing anything about break-in just drove it normally from day one. Would had been better off if I had a lead foot, always have been more of a cruiser. That engine fouled plugs for the first few hundred miles until it finally broke in. After that it was one of the sweetest running engines I ever had back in the day – but no thanks to my lack of old skool break-in procedures.

 

Fast forward to 2012 when I inherit my grandparent’s 1962 Dodge Dart wagon that sat for 20 years. Got it running but it had a lot of blow-by. Had the 318 V-8 solid lifter engine rebuilt at an old skool rebuild shop. Researched old skool engine break-in on this newfangled thing we have now called the internet. Followed the procedure listed below – and that engine now has 2,000 some miles on it since the rebuild, and never fouled a plug.

 

New Engine Break-In:

 

BRAD PENN 30W break-in oil

 

Prime oil pump manually.

 

Start and run at 1500 RPM high idle for 30 mins. Set timing. Let cool off.

 

First test drive: Accelerate from 30mph to 50mph and decelerate rapidly. Repeat 10 times.

 

First 500 miles drive normally, but not at continuous high speeds or heavy loads.

 

Change break-In oil at 500 miles.

 

BRAD PENN 10W/30 PENN-GRADE 1 High Performance Oil (“Partial Synthetic”)

Very good method to follow. Trans (if auto) needs no break in, All surfaces and bearing/journals,etc. all are as smooth as they ever will be, nothing the wear in. Manual takes app. 100 miles, and that is only gear meshing. Just as your bearings and journals in the engine will never be as perfect as when brand new. Valve springs need to be heat cycled as well, which HAS happened from the factory with the several times the engine is run and cooled down before it is loaded on the train or the road transport. (I used to drive from Janesville staging area to transports and sometimes close dealers....and somedrivers were pretty hard on them then!)

Rear diff gears require app 90 miles to properly mesh to each other. And brakes is only proper bedding and heat cycling. This can be done in 10 miles with several hard stops but never leave brakes depressed after coming to stop to avoid heat disputation differential. Allow 2-3 heat cycles where they are heated and cooled evenly.

 

A straight weight oil is an excellent break-in oil. Detergents are not needed in the break-in process. Good dialog here!

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Ohm that Dart should have had the 273 solid lifter engine in it...same as the first Barracuda's I believe. Fast little motors back then, but needed valve lash every 10k miles and todays synthetics will wipe out the cam lobes with no ZDP in sufficient amounts for scuff protection.

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Do they even sell break in oil on the shelves anymore? And the emphasis has been on low maintenance until now GDI? My last few brand new cars have all been greeted with Sir you have only 900 miles on your engine? Why do you want a oil change you supposed to go 6K-7.5K these are the new engines and not like the old ones..........

 

100% crap the only thing important is driving the new vehicle up/down semi hard on accelerator dump the oil @ 1000K save yourself much BS @ 50K, 100K when it's an oil sucking pig! Or in FERDS case blown apart cam phasers.......from all the crap internally from break in and factory machining/fillings etc.

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No intention of insulting, my apologies if I came off that way. And best for break-in/ring seating we always have used Shell Rottella conventional and before that Wolf's Head back 30-40 years ago. So I am definitely with you on NOT using synthetics for ring seating, they just protect to well to allow lubrication barrier penetration, and rings have to abrade into the shape of the cylinder walls. As a GM tech, the break-in instructions are available to any GM techs for new or replacement engines. Back in the 70's when I first started with GM, oil change intervals were 1500 miles. A "break-in" oil was the factory fill, and it was just enough protection to keep bearings and journals damage free if driven easy and 1000 miles was break-in period. Rings would seat in the first few hundred miles and you HAD to change to a regular oil at the 1000 miles mark. Today the emphasis has been on low maintenance, so to compete with each other the first oil change recommendation has gotten longer and longer, mainly for marketing purposes only. It is so hard for the average consumer to sort through all the "PR SPIN" and know what is the best and proper for their new vehicles.

Hey, no worries. I do enjoy chewing the fat about the old school days that's for sure. I used to be so anal about break in periods it drove me nuts. I still do the first oil change at most by 1,500 miles though and won't let a service tech touch a drain plug or filter LOL!!

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Very good method to follow. Trans (if auto) needs no break in, All surfaces and bearing/journals,etc. all are as smooth as they ever will be, nothing the wear in. Manual takes app. 100 miles, and that is only gear meshing. Just as your bearings and journals in the engine will never be as perfect as when brand new. Valve springs need to be heat cycled as well, which HAS happened from the factory with the several times the engine is run and cooled down before it is loaded on the train or the road transport. (I used to drive from Janesville staging area to transports and sometimes close dealers....and somedrivers were pretty hard on them then!)

Rear diff gears require app 90 miles to properly mesh to each other. And brakes is only proper bedding and heat cycling. This can be done in 10 miles with several hard stops but never leave brakes depressed after coming to stop to avoid heat disputation differential. Allow 2-3 heat cycles where they are heated and cooled evenly.

 

A straight weight oil is an excellent break-in oil. Detergents are not needed in the break-in process. Good dialog here!

DId you drive for JATCO?

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Amen – Apply your 2017 owner’s manual break-in procedures to the new tech. Which we all know reads to vary speeds and no towing for the first 500 miles. This is also for break-in of the transmission and differentials. Also no hard stops with the brakes for 200 miles.

 

In 1980 I did buy a 350 GM crate engine and put it in a 1940 Ford PU. Not knowing anything about break-in just drove it normally from day one. Would had been better off if I had a lead foot, always have been more of a cruiser. That engine fouled plugs for the first few hundred miles until it finally broke in. After that it was one of the sweetest running engines I ever had back in the day – but no thanks to my lack of old skool break-in procedures.

 

Fast forward to 2012 when I inherit my grandparent’s 1962 Dodge Dart wagon that sat for 20 years. Got it running but it had a lot of blow-by. Had the 318 V-8 solid lifter engine rebuilt at an old skool rebuild shop in 2015. Researched old skool engine break-in on this newfangled thing we have now called the internet. Followed the procedure listed below – and that engine now has 2,000 some miles on it since the rebuild, and never fouled a plug.

 

New Engine Break-In:

 

BRAD PENN 30W break-in oil

 

Prime oil pump manually.

 

Start and run at 1500 RPM high idle for 30 mins. Set timing. Let cool off.

 

First test drive: Accelerate from 30mph to 50mph and decelerate rapidly. Repeat 10 times.

 

First 500 miles drive normally, but not at continuous high speeds or heavy loads.

 

Change break-In oil at 500 miles.

 

BRAD PENN 10W/30 PENN-GRADE 1 High Performance Oil (“Partial Synthetic”)

That is great! Remember priming the oil system with a power drill after pulling the distributor? I burnt up a power drill one time doing that...must have not broken in the drill properly LOL!!

Good luck with the new rig. Hope it shows up sooner than later for ya.

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Ohm that Dart should have had the 273 solid lifter engine in it...same as the first Barracuda's I believe. Fast little motors back then, but needed valve lash every 10k miles and todays synthetics will wipe out the cam lobes with no ZDP in sufficient amounts for scuff protection.

318 Poly - Pics below - Love that engine - never adjusted solid lifters before - it's a kick to work on. And I have been thru the adjustment a few times - did the heads first hoping that would be enough. Yes the Brad Penn is high ZDP - Old Skool baby....... Grandpa was a mechanic at a garage - they bought the wagon in 1969 - everything I touch for the first time was last touched by Grandpa (who passed in 1991).

 

 

 

 

 

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Absolutely false. I thinkk someone has given you untriue information. I worked for GM and can tell you no ring seating is performed. There is a brief "systems running check" performed but that is all and one in every 50-100 or so are run through a bot harder test to look for issues, but the only running at the factory is to check proper function of systems. Never a WOT series of running. Someone I assume has misled you into believing this. I am an Automotive engineer with over 40 years working in the industry, and only the supercars get factory ring seating, both on engine dyno and then test track. NO production vehicles have any ring seating performed. And that instruction is with all engines when new. Black02silverado is correct though in his statement. Do a Google search on "GM Truck engines with oil consumption issues" and see, and we tear down newer engines all the time to determine the causes of excessive oil consumption, and in most cases it is clear to see the cross hatch hone pattern covered by the hard glaze well before seating could occur. Also, using a 0w20 oil is ONLY for the manufacturer to meet Cafe fuel economy standards...it is NOT the best for protection of the engine. Run a 10w30 for best protection unless used for severe duty, then a 10w40 is a better choice. Rings cannot seat properly (except in lucky occasions) without properly loading them equally with both hard acceleration and deceleration (engine braking) as described. Of course, you paid for your vehicle so by all means do as you feel comfortable, but make sure to not spread any untrue rumors or assumptions for those that do care to break in and care for their vehicle the best way possible. Do a Google search on proper ring seating as well and find articles and white papers on everything from Motor Cycles to aircraft engines and see the consensus.

 

GDI engines are subject also to many times the volume of raw fuel passing the piston rings and entering the crankcase. This washdown contributed to wear and the oil dilution reduces it's ability to properly protect as formulated. Also, the abrasive particulate matter entering as blow-by is not the "soft" carbon of port injection engines where it did little actual damage. GDI deposits are a hard abrasive material that as it sheds and enters the crankcase remains abrasive not unlike a small amount of sand put in it. These engines are subject to many engine wear issues port injections never were, so caring for them properly is critical.

 

I'd agree with this. depending on the situation, most production engines only have a few minutes on them when the customer receives it. You still have time to break it in.

 

The old saying 'break it in slow & it stays slow, break it in fast & it stays fast' has a lot of truth to it.

 

I think this is where I first got schooled on the subject;

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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That is great! Remember priming the oil system with a power drill after pulling the distributor? I burnt up a power drill one time doing that...must have not broken in the drill properly LOL!!

Good luck with the new rig. Hope it shows up sooner than later for ya.

I still have 2 old distributors gutted to do just that! Have not used them in decades though.

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318 Poly - Pics below - Love that engine - never adjusted solid lifters before - it's a kick to work on. And I have been thru the adjustment a few times - did the heads first hoping that would be enough. Yes the Brad Penn is high ZDP - Old Skool baby....... Grandpa was a mechanic at a garage - they bought the wagon in 1969 - everything I touch for the first time was last touched by Grandpa (who passed in 1991).

 

 

attachicon.gifPoly Wind Tunnel 004.JPG

 

attachicon.gifSunbust 2013 best unfinished.jpg

That is a cool car!!!! Love it! My Grandfather migrated to the US in the early 1900's and took a mail course on Diesel repair. He had that set of old 78 records and the books to go with, but his firs job was as a mechanic for the local Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler dealer, and he stayed there until he has 60. My first time driving was a bit eventful. He used to have a 54 Dodge 4 door and he would let me sit on his lap and start it. We were visiting the nursing home where my great grandmother was and when finished, I figured I would show him how "grown up" I was and ran ahead to start the car. well that old thing with worn out clutch was in gear and as my grandmother was chasing me I hit the starter....it was in gear and started and ran her over. Last I saw was her surprised look as it took her under the car and I ran her right over and I was so shocked I did not know what to do... Grandpa ran faster than I ever saw him and got the drivers door open and pulled the "Parking Brake" and it stopped. Grandma was scrapped up, but those old cars had so much ground clearance no serious injuries. Man did I get a scolding for that!

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That is a cool car!!!! Love it! My Grandfather migrated to the US in the early 1900's and took a mail course on Diesel repair. He had that set of old 78 records and the books to go with, but his firs job was as a mechanic for the local Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler dealer, and he stayed there until he has 60. My first time driving was a bit eventful. He used to have a 54 Dodge 4 door and he would let me sit on his lap and start it. We were visiting the nursing home where my great grandmother was and when finished, I figured I would show him how "grown up" I was and ran ahead to start the car. well that old thing with worn out clutch was in gear and as my grandmother was chasing me I hit the starter....it was in gear and started and ran her over. Last I saw was her surprised look as it took her under the car and I ran her right over and I was so shocked I did not know what to do... Grandpa ran faster than I ever saw him and got the drivers door open and pulled the "Parking Brake" and it stopped. Grandma was scrapped up, but those old cars had so much ground clearance no serious injuries. Man did I get a scolding for that!

 

 

Thanks - I bet we could swap auto related stories one-for-one for a very long time......

 

:flag:

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A note to all, we should have data to release before long of almost 2 years of oil analysis on a fleet of new GDI vehicles that shows you ONLY want to use a FULL synthetic oil as the dealer free oil changes of the Dexos rated blend results in as much as 3 times the rate and severity of coking deposits forming on the valves! And, use of the Elite E2-X and E2-X Ultra systems will allow you to extend oil change intervals as it removes much of the contaminates that overwhelm the engine oil reducing it's ability to protect. Wear is also reduced by removing the raw fuel and other damaging particulate matter entering as blow-by. And fuel economy improvement from reducing knock retard. Also, do NOT baby that engine during the first few hundred miles! Follow this procedure from GM to properly seat rings to avoid oil consumption issues:

 

Hey GDI Tech. When can we expect to see your data? And was any of your testing done on the K2's truck,car, SUV engines or done on other test mules or imports? Thanks

 

Scott

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