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Tuners


#KINGANT

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I use a Hypertech 2.0 part 2000 because I can set my AFM to only come on above a certain speed. They claim it adds a few HP and you can manipulate the AFM / trans settings / raise the speed limiter / set throttle response / change tire size settings etc etc. I figure with the CAI / Borla Catback and Premium tune that I am running somewhere around +450hp at the flywheel (about 30 more than the stock 420 hp). Kind of fun to play with the tuner but it is not going to make a huge difference noticeable power difference. I think the big advantage is being able to reset the throttle response and trans setting that makes the truck drive much better all the way around. The factory settings IMO are more geared towards fuel economy not driving enjoyment..... I bought the hypertech at autoanything on sale for around 300 bones. I consider the little hand held tuner about the best thing that I have bought for the truck so far. It does not seem to have hurt my mpg too badly.

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I see your going with the edge, but I would have recommended Black Bear Performance. They offer tunes tailored to your truck. Had them tune my last gas truck back around 2013 and was completely happy. Actually received excellent customer service from them within the last week even though I haven't purchased anything since 2013. Check them out some time...

 

http://www.blackbearperformance.com/

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use a Hypertech 2.0 part 2000 because I can set my AFM to only come on above a certain speed. They claim it adds a few HP and you can manipulate the AFM / trans settings / raise the speed limiter / set throttle response / change tire size settings etc etc. I figure with the CAI / Borla Catback and Premium tune that I am running somewhere around +450hp at the flywheel (about 30 more than the stock 420 hp). Kind of fun to play with the tuner but it is not going to make a huge difference noticeable power difference. I think the big advantage is being able to reset the throttle response and trans setting that makes the truck drive much better all the way around. The factory settings IMO are more geared towards fuel economy not driving enjoyment..... I bought the hypertech at autoanything on sale for around 300 bones. I consider the little hand held tuner about the best thing that I have bought for the truck so far. It does not seem to have hurt my mpg too badly.

 

 

Do you recall which fuses you pulled for use of the tuner on the truck?? I have my owners manual and have identified the fuse for the radio but there's not one explicitly labeled for OnStar or the remote start feature, like the hypertech manual states to pull out before using.

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Do you recall which fuses you pulled for use of the tuner on the truck?? I have my owners manual and have identified the fuse for the radio but there's not one explicitly labeled for OnStar or the remote start feature, like the hypertech manual states to pull out before using.

I like you did pull fuses the FIRST time per instruction and thta is probably the best thing to do but it is WAY too much trouble and best I can tell from my experience it is not really required if you are careful. Just make 100% sure that the Radio / HVAC / Lights and everything are turned off before starting and of course do not open the door/roll window etc. during programming. I have used it probably 7 or 8 times without pulling fuses to make changes without any issues. When you turn the key switch to the on or off position per programmer instructions on screen just make sure and hold the headlight switch to the off (roll far left) position when turning the key so it does not kick them on automatically. Now it may blow the entire truck up next time I do this LOL so use this advice at your own risk. I can just tell you what works for me so far..............and I will be darned if I spend 30 mins messing with fuses every time I want to change the speed at which the AFM kick on

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I like you did pull fuses the FIRST time per instruction and thta is probably the best thing to do but it is WAY too much trouble and best I can tell from my experience it is not really required if you are careful. Just make 100% sure that the Radio / HVAC / Lights and everything are turned off before starting and of course do not open the door/roll window etc. during programming. I have used it probably 7 or 8 times without pulling fuses to make changes without any issues. When you turn the key switch to the on or off position per programmer instructions on screen just make sure and hold the headlight switch to the off (roll far left) position when turning the key so it does not kick them on automatically. Now it may blow the entire truck up next time I do this LOL so use this advice at your own risk. I can just tell you what works for me so far..............and I will be darned if I spend 30 mins messing with fuses every time I want to change the speed at which the AFM kick on

 

Thanks for the quick reply man! I had identified two fuses to pull (left side 28 and right side 18 I believe) but then I decided to call Hypertech and ask them if there was anyway they could confirm which ones I needed to pull. Speaking to a Gary at Hypertech he basically said the fuse warning is for the older models because the accessories tend to draw more inline power. He stated that with the newer models I just needed to make sure my phone didn't connect to the bluetooth when turning the key to the run position during the programming process.

 

That being said, before I plugged in the tuner I got in the truck and turned the key to the run position, without starting it, just to make sure I could identify everything I could turn off. I turned the radio off by using the power button, went into the display settings and turned the display off(it comes back on with a simple touch of the screen), turned the AC off(dual climate control) and buckled the driver seat belt so it wouldn't chime.

 

I then turned the key back to the off position and opened and shut the door to kill the radio(since by default it stays on).

 

I plugged in the tuner, and when prompted to turn the key to the run position during programming, I held the headlight knob to the far left(disabling the DTRLs) as recommended.

 

Everything went smoothly and I now have the correct tire size programmed as well as AFM disabled under 60mph. DAMN did it make a difference not having AFM like that. Didn't think it would but it did. Gonna drive around on a few tanks of gas like this before I hook the tuner back up and tune it for fuel. Very happy with the results so far...no more hesitation in the throttle.

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Glad it worked out for you. I have had a lot of fun customizing the truck to drive like I want it to. If I set the shift pressure pretty high it will chirp the tires on the first few upshifts at hard throttle, and sounds dang good doing it with the Borla and CAI......makes and old codger like me smile LOL. Basically back to stock now and it produces some amazing mpg if you use restraint with the right foot.

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  • 6 months later...
On 3/18/2017 at 8:06 AM, SouthCo said:

I see your going with the edge, but I would have recommended Black Bear Performance. They offer tunes tailored to your truck. Had them tune my last gas truck back around 2013 and was completely happy. Actually received excellent customer service from them within the last week even though I haven't purchased anything since 2013. Check them out some time...

 

http://www.blackbearperformance.com/

like said before these tunes are tune to your truck, not a plain tune for all truck like your model or yr, if you do the BBP tune anytime you upgrade anything to performance just email the guy @BBP and thell send you a new tune to keep your truck running at top, i bought the BBP efi live/auto cal to sell to the guys here in my area, and hands down far the best you can do, unless you have acces to a dyno then you can do hp tuner......

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  • 2 months later...

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