Jump to content
  • 0

Crank sensor


Swimmer8366

Question

Can I replace my crankshaft position sensor in my 2002 6.0 with out doing a relearn after words. For a couple days till my scan tool comes in?

 

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

I hear it's a crapshoot - some will run, some won't, and some run very poorly.

 

I'm not much of a gambling man, so if it were me, I'd wait a couple days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They won't run? Never heard that one. I would think I just wouldn't have misfire data.... and if it doesn't run after replacement than how would I crank relearn. It has to be running no?

 

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heard that on the net, so don't take that as gospel. Someone probably bought one at Advance Auto and was defective out of the box, more than likely.

 

Yes - it does need to be running to do a crank relearn. If it's not running you'd have to figure out why.

 

Nice of GM to make these things so simple for us, ain't it? :nonod:

 

 

I've always been told a crank relearn was needed whenever the timing cover or sensor is disturbed. I put a new sensor AND cover on a '96 Tahoe once, and once we figured out the junkyard had sold us a computer that wasn't flashed for a V8 engine, the truck ran perfect. No cam/crank correlation codes either. Hopefully you have the same luck with this one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It has all the signs of a bad crank sensor, longer crank on start up, hesitating during acceleration, stumble at idle, misfire. Just no damn crank sensor codes.

 

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the crank sensor, or even the cam sensor was truly bad, you'd be parked with a no-start.

 

Lots of things can cause the 0300 - intake leaks are one of the most common causes, MAF sensor would be a close second. Really bad o2 sensors can do it too, but both would have to be bad at the same time - you'd have known a long time ago when the first one was failing, so not as likely.

 

I would get a scan tool on there and check your fuel trims with a cold engine vs. a warm engine - if they're reading high, then get better as the engine warms up, that's a classic intake gasket leak. Can confirm it by spraying water along the gasket surface and listen for it getting sucked in.

 

Worn plugs, and old wires, (and cap/rotor if equipped), a bad fuel pressure regulator, or a failing fuel pump will cause extended crank times too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.