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Bose subwoofer replacement option


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Baltic birch is perfectly acceptable for a box of this type and size. It's probably a little better than mdf because it would be less susceptible to moisture being mounted in a vehicle. Mdf is probably cheaper and easier to work with.

 

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Thanks for the explanation... Any cubic ft estimates for the box?

 

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The volume of the empty box is .32 cf. The JL sub displaces .03 cf. JL says the sub is optimized for a sealed enclosure with a volume of .3 cf and I am at .29 with my box... Not perfect but pretty close! I've actually got an idea to incorporate in the next ones I build that will add another .005 cf.

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I just received my KICK ASS box from andreej! I'll tell you, this guy can build a box!!! You guys better line up bc if he decides not to do it anymore, you'll definitely be missing out on a quality, first class build job. I'm a very particular individual about everything and I knew this was going to meet or exceed my expectations when I first laid eyes on it.

Thank you very much!!!279feba80bb90edf7069c74aea49bb52.jpg

 

 

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Very nice box! I have been interested in this for a while. Would you be willing to share or sell the plans for those of us who like to tinker with this at home?

 

The box on ebay would be nice too, but is pricey. But then again so are solobarics. I did a .25 cu ft box for my cousin with an original series 8" L7 and it hit crazy hard for an 8. They take a long time to come alive though because they are so stiff.

 

For Knotsure, you could do it with water, sand, or small packing peanuts. That sounds absurd I know, but it is the easiest way to figure out an irregular volume. I know your top plate is MDF though, which is not compatible with water. I built a box very similar to this years ago for my Ridgeline and wifes 4runner. I poured fiberglass resin inside and let it seep into all the edges and cover the mdf entirely. It was sealed tighter than any box I had ever made at that point. Also impervious to water.

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Edited by Texas_GMC_Z71
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How much power are you pushing to your JL? I would think 100-200W would be plenty for an 8. I dont think the W0s or W3s can handle much more than that.

 

Did you have to add any filler in between the sub box and the console to prevent vibration?

 

Thanks!!

Edited by Texas_GMC_Z71
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The volume of the empty box is .32 cf. The JL sub displaces .03 cf. JL says the sub is optimized for a sealed enclosure with a volume of .3 cf and I am at .29 with my box... Not perfect but pretty close! I've actually got an idea to incorporate in the next ones I build that will add another .005 cf.

It's a sealed box, I would just add some polyfill and call it a day.

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How much power are you pushing to your JL? I would think 100-200W would be plenty for an 8. I dont think the W0s or W3s can handle much more than that.

 

Did you have to add any filler in between the sub box and the console to prevent vibration?

 

Thanks!!

Years ago we put a 1000w Memphis audio amp on 2 8" JLW3s (maybe it was the w6s I don't remember). The box was small too but it had to be. Those 8s hit so hard.

 

 

2014 Chevy silverado Z71 DCSB w/Bilstein 5100 level

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Cool. I think the W6s are made for that kind of power. Not saying the W3s couldnt take it for a while. Just seems like there would be diminishing returns on a single 8 once you go over a couple hundred watts. The W7s would laugh that off, but they are beasts made for power. They are also way too big for this application.

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A couple questions. How does it sound with location of sub. I always prefer bass to to come from rear . Also about how long does it take to install? Do ur instructions cover removal of center? Any special tools I need or can a novice with basic skills install? Is there an amp u recommend? And do u provide instructions how to hook wiring for amp and all. I would be interested if you could provide basic plug and play instructions.

 

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yes, that is the one. as you can see he's not going to lose any sales to it.

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How much power are you pushing to your JL? I would think 100-200W would be plenty for an 8. I dont think the W0s or W3s can handle much more than that.

 

Did you have to add any filler in between the sub box and the console to prevent vibration?

 

Thanks!!

I am running a 150W amp and it seems about right. I think 125-200 is the recommended for this sub.

 

I don't have anything between the box and the console. I considered doing carpet but giving up that extra 1/4" in all directions would have reduced the box's volume a bit and since its already a touch on the low side I didn't want to do that. That being said, I haven't noticed any vibration at all. there's probably room to add something thin (1/16 - 1/8) if you were concerned about it, I'm just not sure what that would be!

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A couple questions. How does it sound with location of sub. I always prefer bass to to come from rear . Also about how long does it take to install? Do ur instructions cover removal of center? Any special tools I need or can a novice with basic skills install? Is there an amp u recommend? And do u provide instructions how to hook wiring for amp and all. I would be interested if you could provide basic plug and play instructions.

 

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In a perfect world you wouldn't be able to tell where the Sub is!! I think it sounds great where it is but that may be a personal preference. For me one of the most important aspects was to create something that maintained the factory appearance 100% and I don't know that there is a way to do that with a sub in the rear.

 

To install the box with mounting hardware probably would take 1.5 - 2 hours. I have instructions and pictures to help with removing the center console. Its not difficult at all, especially having instructions. The first time I did it it took some time mainly because I didn't have any guidance with removing the console. No special tools, just some metric sockets and screwdrivers.

 

I used the Alpine MRV-M250 amp and it worked well. I would try to find an amp with a fairly small physical size as there isn't a ton of room on the back wall for mounting it. Running the wiring for the amp again isn't difficult but you need to be comfortable pulling up interior trim panels (again, no special tools needed). The rear seats need to be removed for mounting the amp as well. I would be happy to provide general instructions on installing the amp and wiring if you need them!

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