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Removing Oil Filter


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No check valve, filter is above the oil pan, so nothing will siphon out. You will need less than a quart to top it off if you were not low to begin with.

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Quick Question - if I change the oil filter only - will the oil drain out.. or is there a "stop" valve of some sort to prevent too much oil draining ?

 

Not a bad idea - and go with a Mobil 1....... # M1-212

 

My ol' skool brain tells me I am nearing 1,000 miles and should change the oil like it is 1977......... My current century brain says wait at least until 3,000 miles the lowest figure GM recommends if you reset the OLM accidently............ But really 7,500 or one year will be fine............

 

So maybe OCD changing of just the filter to M1 at 1,000 is the perfect compromise............

 

:freak:

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Quick Question - if I change the oil filter only - will the oil drain out.. or is there a "stop" valve of some sort to prevent too much oil draining ?

The "check valve" is in the filter itself...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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No check valve, filter is above the oil pan, so nothing will siphon out. You will need less than a quart to top it off if you were not low to begin with.

2X

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Not a bad idea - and go with a Mobil 1....... # M1-212

 

My ol' skool brain tells me I am nearing 1,000 miles and should change the oil like it is 1977......... My current century brain says wait at least until 3,000 miles the lowest figure GM recommends if you reset the OLM accidently............ But really 7,500 or one year will be fine............

 

So maybe OCD changing of just the filter to M1 at 1,000 is the perfect compromise............

 

:freak:

Filter plus Mobil 1 at 1000 miles....lot of metal in the filter............again at 3000 miles a lot less but still some metal particles in the filter......again at 6000 filter clear of particles.......next at 10K and every 4-5 K thereafter. Never use the OLM.....use the #2 trip mileage to keep track of oil changes.

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Filter plus Mobil 1 at 1000 miles....lot of metal in the filter............again at 3000 miles a lot less but still some metal particles in the filter......again at 6000 filter clear of particles.......next at 10K and every 4-5 K thereafter. Never use the OLM.....use the #2 trip mileage to keep track of oil changes.

 

 

See, I knew it was 1977 again..........

 

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Quick Question - if I change the oil filter only - will the oil drain out.. or is there a "stop" valve of some sort to prevent too much oil draining ?

Why just the filter?

Drop filter over a pan, measure oil, replace same amount. :happysad:

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The oil filter may contain an anti-drain back valve (ADBV). Look into the business end of the filter, those holes on the outside, the ADBV is the seal on the inside of these holes. It stops oil from flowing backwards though the filter. It also traps oil above the oil filter in the lifters and removing the filter will allow that to drain out. So you may need to top of the oil after changing the filter, could be a qt.

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See, I knew it was 1977 again..........

 

attachicon.gifback-to-the-future3.jpg

Really, what's changed during break-in? Metal grinds metal and sand casting $hit is flushed from the block and heads. Oils are much improved for for lubrication, against breakdown and better anti-scuff and heat resistance, but the crap from early mating of parts, combustion and exhaust gas recycling crap still remain. Wouldn't sell too many cars against the competition if they promoted 4-5K oil changes.....and once they start to generate smoke it is a downward spiral. Oil is cheap, engine repairs not.

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Filter plus Mobil 1 at 1000 miles....lot of metal in the filter............again at 3000 miles a lot less but still some metal particles in the filter......again at 6000 filter clear of particles.......next at 10K and every 4-5 K thereafter. Never use the OLM.....use the #2 trip mileage to keep track of oil changes.

Change every 5k in the "5s" and "10s" (10k, 15k, 20k, etc) and you won't need anything to track oil changes except the knowledge that you need to do oil changes. ?

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Really, what's changed during break-in? Metal grinds metal and sand casting $hit is flushed from the block and heads. Oils are much improved for for lubrication, against breakdown and better anti-scuff and heat resistance, but the crap from early mating of parts, combustion and exhaust gas recycling crap still remain. Wouldn't sell too many cars against the competition if they promoted 4-5K oil changes.....and once they start to generate smoke it is a downward spiral. Oil is cheap, engine repairs not.

 

Actually, Accelerated oil change practices can be more expensive than replacement engines, when calculated over the life of a modern vehicle.

I've posted the math in a couple threads on this site, showing how expensive accelerated OC schedules really are, especially over a career of driving. Modern engines, especially LS based engines last a long time and almost never have oil related failures (unless they aren't maintained)

I find it ironic that many people change oil too frequently in the (mistaken) belief that it will prevent them from having to replace a worn out engine. Often the money they spend on un-necessary changes exceeds the cost of a new engine.

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