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Leveling My HD - What Components To Buy


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2016 2500HD RCLB w/ snow plow prep. I'd like to lift the front end up a couple inches, leaving a slight amount of rake for hauling/towing. As of right now there is about a 3" height difference front to rear. I want to do this right, and don't want to be smacking droop stops or stressing my CV's...

 

I think I need the following...

 

Bilstein 5100 shocks

Aftermarket UCA's

Front diff drop spacers

 

I went on realtruck website and there are two options for the Bilsteins and many options for the other two needs. Can you guys recommend me what to get?

 

I was going to do the torsion key lift, then add the aftermarket goodies and take it to get an alignment. Is that correct?

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We all want to do it right the first time. I'm sure you'll hear something like, don't level it - lift it. I leveled mine and don't have any issues. My last truck was an '04, and I leveled it right after purchasing it new...and never had significant problems. I did have to replace idler arms, pitman arms, and ball joints a little more frequently, but the front end was always tight.

 

I did quite a bit of research on leveling and lift kits before purchasing my kit from Central Coast Motorsports in San Luis Obispo, CA. (CCM). They are a small shop that's been doing business for years and manufacture their own leveling (and lift) kits...which keeps their prices down. Check out their website...and they can ship anywhere...

 

You can just crank the bars for raising the front end a little, but, this will add way more stress to the idler and pitman arms, ball joints, and CV joints due to increased angles. Installing a leveling kit with UCAs, diff drop spacers, new keys, and shock extensions (or slightly longer shocks) will minimize this stress, bring the CV angles closer to spec, and allow the "droop stop" to be at 1-1.5". Remember, these kits will only minimize the stress we are inducing on the front end. They will also only minimize the increased CV angle because it will increase. The diff drop spacers will help this, but not eliminate it. Parts may wear a little faster and may need to be replaced. As long as you know all the facts, and are ok with possibly replacing parts a little sooner than those who remain stock, go for a leveling kit...but I would purchase the whole kit. It is engineered to get our trucks as close to factory specs as possible. Although, as you know, you can purchase these parts individually...from CCM, or any other reputable aftermarket company, but again, in my opinion, purchase the kit...and don't just crank the stock bars and call it good. We spend a lot of good earned money for these trucks.

 

I have had no issues with my CCM leveling kit...ball joints remain tight, idler and pitman arms are tight, and CV angles only slightly increased. The ride did stiffen a little, but to me, it is a little more truck like...I thought the front end was too soft from the factory...

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Yea I don't intend to buy a "kit" just the best components available individually to create my own kit. It is to my understanding that even though I'm only going to crank the front end up a little bit, I will still benefit from a diff drop spacer, modified UCA's and extended shocks. Is this correct?

 

What items should I buy?

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Keep trying...they are a small shop. Talk with Danny. I'm sure you will still benefit from the UCAs. From what I understand, Zone is the only manufacturer that makes a slightly longer shock that will work with leveling kits. Bilstein (and all others) either make a stock height or 4" plus (for lift kits) and these are too tall for leveling kits. So, if you run Bilstein (or any other brand), you must run the stock height with the shock extenders. Talk with him regarding the diff drop spacers too regarding your specific situation. I'm sure it won't hurt. Anything to bring the CV angles closer to factory spec is better...

 

Again...keep trying. They are a great shop and Danny has a wealth of knowledge in this area...

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Ejcarter is spot on with everything above. Just get everything at once... UCAs, shocks and/or spacers, keys (if you don't have the snow plow package) and diff drop. All easy to install. There are Bilstein shocks that will suit up to 1.5" of lift in the front. The Bilstein 5100 24-253161 will work. Anything above 1.5", you may need shock spacers. I bought those shocks and will see if spacers are needed with my 2.25" lifted front end.

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Meant to say, spacers did not provide enough to prevent top out with my 2.25" lift. That's why I ended up getting the Bilsteins. I will report back once they show.

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Is the bilstein 5100 our only option? What about the 6112 that comes wrapped in a spring...or are those only for the 1500?

Any shock with a coil wrapped around it is not comparable to the 2500 without modification. The 2500 has a torsion bar, not a coil over shock.

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What exactly do aftermarket UCA's do? Are they just a different angle? My buddy lifted his with a bds lift. His used the stock UCA but an aftermarket steering knuckle to return all angle to normal.

Aftermarket UCAs provide more clearance so that they don't contact the stops...essentially providing more sag.

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cpap is correct...

 

Aftermarket UCAs also re-position the upper ball joint to a more neutral angle thus decreasing the stress on the ball joint from leveling or lifting.

 

Your buddy is running stock UCAs with a BDS lift kit because it was engineered to retain the use of the stock arms. Depending on the manufacture and the desired height...some retain the stock arms or some require replacing the arms..

 

Simply put...A Pitman Arm is the arm that swings left and right coming out of the steering box (drivers side). It is connected to the Idler Arm (passenger side) by the Tie Rod. The Idler Arm "floats" and provides some stability to the steering system. The ends of the tie rods (Tie Rod Ends) are connected to the back side of the front wheel assembly.

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