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Awesome write up. Did you re-use the diff gasket? Wasn't aware it was reusable but after buying one last week it actually feels like it could be. I just went through these services. Hit 100k on the 15. Just got a 3rd set of tires, all new rotors and pads, did the ball joints (lowers were bad) , added a leveling kit (and blocks) finally, bled the brakes. Just have to do the trans fluid/filter and diff fluid. Also have an appt to get a magnaflow exhaust set up. Figured after 100k and not doing anything to this truck (mod wise) that she deserved it. After a detail and wash she feels brand new. I'll get 250-300k out of this truck before I get a new one.

 

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Hello, diff gasket is reusable and so is the Transmission pan gasket. Will keep an eye on the ball joints. I wouldn't be opposed to changing all the bushings/suspension bits when the time comes.

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Yeah. Strange. One has to move up to the 2500 to get a drain plug on the rear diff.

 

Yes, good write up. To the OP, you could also use 5w20. it is the same as the 0w20 except it stays under the max 7000 cSt viscosity at -30c / -23F vs the 0w20 staying under 7000 cSt viscosity at -35c / -32F. If you are in temps that are above that, you can use a 5w20. And the dealer couldn't tell the difference with a used oil sample if they tried. Both are 20w oils and do the same job. It gives you an option if you want. It may not be on the new dexos1 Gen 2 list that is being developed, but 5w20 is all over the dexos1 list that preceded the new one coming out. I counted 40 of them and didn't get near the end of the list. And your pickup was built under the original dexos1 list. An intelligent argument can be made that a 5w20, in the same product line, has a lower burn off rate and is more shear stable than a 0w20 since the 5w20 uses fewer viscosity modifiers in the mix.

 

http://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand1/

Thank you for all this information and link. I will be going with 5w-20 on my next oil change since I see temperatures near 100 degrees in the summer.

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I was missing the retainer that secured the filler neck to the body of the truck. I looked up the parts list and it is GM 11561878. Instead of having to wait on the part I went to my local parts store and purchased a Dorman 461230BP retainer. All is well in the world! Hope this helps someone as I have no idea how the retainer went missing.

 

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I was missing the retainer that secured the filler neck to the body of the truck. I looked up the parts list and it is GM 11561878. Instead of having to wait on the part I went to my local parts store and purchased a Dorman 461230BP retainer. All is well in the world! Hope this helps someone as I have no idea how the retainer went missing.

 

e4e142e907d18a6c216851a6919ba1cf.png

 

117dd6334ebe06adc07ad809bfc4b60e.jpg

 

0e7560da35254d4ce46a0d29dc39b894.jpg

 

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I used same thing as mine was incorrect/broken from when taking delivery....Problem is I had GM finally fix it with correct part under warranty as the multiple other ones I used keep coming loose or falling out?

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I used same thing as mine was incorrect/broken from when taking delivery....Problem is I had GM finally fix it with correct part under warranty as the multiple other ones I used keep coming loose or falling out?

I will have to keep an eye on it and if it falls out I will order the GM part. There seems to be a lot of transmitted vibration and movement at the filler neck after taking a 2nd look. I can see the retainer falling out due to this. Perhaps a flush bolt with a nylon lock nut might work if the problem persists.

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Thanks man!

Be careful if you see a lot of debris on top of the filter as it might fall on the blower. Maybe sticking a vacuum to remove any debris before removing the filter might be worth the time. It only took me 25 minutes or so but time that could of been avoided.

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I will have to keep an eye on it and if it falls out I will order the GM part. There seems to be a lot of transmitted vibration and movement at the filler neck after taking a 2nd look. I can see the retainer falling out due to this. Perhaps a flush bolt with a nylon lock nut might work if the problem persists.

 

 

I just looked at mine and since having the dealer install the plastic grommet thing no issues. I do have what looks like a foam type washer under the plastic push in rivet too.....What ever GM uses it works and I tried numerous times to avoid the dealership over this stupid thing and ended up there anyway! Good luck...

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Dave,

 

Excellent write up and pictures wish I had the tech knowledge to do that! Anyway, I am pretty much doing the same thing right now on my Rig.

 

I did take the the top of the air intake plastic box off for the "Flashing Inspection" If your not familiar it's the plastic "flashing that is left after the mold is made and it's not clean around the sharp edges etc. Well, guess what? Mine had Flashing all over the damn thing where the plastic molded "plus" shaped area where the MASS AIR FLOW Sensor is being suspended. You might want to pop yours off and check inside and you will know immediately if yours is "Ugly" I just used a nice "clean" mill file for metal and cleaned out the flashing and then some "fine" sand paper to smooth out and carefully wiped out residue and lightly dried with blower.

 

It's a known problem hopefully yours is fine and it's does have meaningful consequences for the drive ability of vehicle as the MASS IS BEING AFFECTED. Thanks for your write up!

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Dave,

 

Excellent write up and pictures wish I had the tech knowledge to do that! Anyway, I am pretty much doing the same thing right now on my Rig.

 

I did take the the top of the air intake plastic box off for the "Flashing Inspection" If your not familiar it's the plastic "flashing that is left after the mold is made and it's not clean around the sharp edges etc. Well, guess what? Mine had Flashing all over the damn thing where the plastic molded "plus" shaped area where the MASS AIR FLOW Sensor is being suspended. You might want to pop yours off and check inside and you will know immediately if yours is "Ugly" I just used a nice "clean" mill file for metal and cleaned out the flashing and then some "fine" sand paper to smooth out and carefully wiped out residue and lightly dried with blower.

 

It's a known problem hopefully yours is fine and it's does have meaningful consequences for the drive ability of vehicle as the MASS IS BEING AFFECTED. Thanks for your write up!

Wow thank you I was not aware of this. I am now at an apartment so I will have to wait until this coming up weekend before I can take the truck to a vehicle hobby shop that rents out space/lifts for you to work on your car. I will report back with any findings.

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maintenance works.

 

I see a lot of good intentions when these are young, until the steel is outrun.

Nice to see motivated anyway..

 

The rear diff level is as simple as the fill plug. Being on the back on the cover is a more accurate reading.

overfilling kills them more.

 

I changed a cover on my own after oil splash finally burrowed a pinhole through it.. over 350k miles and 20 years.

by 100k is first body/metal complaints.

if you hang on after that, you are dedicated.

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maintenance works.

 

I see a lot of good intentions when these are young, until the steel is outrun.

Nice to see motivated anyway..

 

The rear diff level is as simple as the fill plug. Being on the back on the cover is a more accurate reading.

overfilling kills them more.

 

I changed a cover on my own after oil splash finally burrowed a pinhole through it.. over 350k miles and 20 years.

by 100k is first body/metal complaints.

if you hang on after that, you are dedicated.

Yeah most of it was for peace of mind. Somehow after you perform all this maintenance the placebo effect takes hold.

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