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BCM


Traciejoy

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I have a 99 Chevy Suburban. Went on a trip last weekend and it didnt want to start after sitting a few hours. It has done this before a few times but now it's everyday and today it will not start at all. It was starting after security light goes out which takes about 10 minutes but NOTHING today..Last night I had to wait 40 minutes to leave work.I have googled and read forums and called people about this and it looks like the BCM...how can I be sure? And is there any way to buy one without having the dealership program it? I am annoyed and now I can't even get it to crank at all!! HELP!!!

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I will check after I get the new battery. Obviously Discount Auto Parts sold me a smaller battery than what my truck should have a year and a half ago..so maybe when I get the larger battery in it in a few that will miraculously solve everything...(wishful thinking) On my way now to buy one...will keep you posted....and again TY for the info

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Great news...got my truck fixed after 2 weeks...the vdm/tdm was bad....bad news is they dont make the part anymore but my mechanic found one for 85.00 and the bypass kit from Newrockies was 300.00...had to relearn my key but well worth the 400.00...hopefully this helps anyone else with truck not starting until security light goes out!

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Now why is it that you suspect the BCM? I think the first thing that I would do is get my local auto parts to test and verify that the battery and charging systems are working correctly. A bad battery can cause a lot of strange electrical problems that typically disappear after a bad battery is replaced. If all good there then the next most common issue is the fuel pump. You will need a pressure gauge for the fuel rail tap but can typically borrow one at like autozone on their loan a tool program. If good there then move to the ignition system maybe you have a bad distributor cap (that was a big problem for the late 90's model GM engines). Just saying it sounds like you need to check the basics before blaming the BCM and if all the common issues are eliminated then it may be time to look at the Module.

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Well based on what he's saying about the security light......what kind of shape is the key in? Does yours have the resistor built into it? If they get really worn they'll do this. Also, if you have the flashing security light it's going into a start inhibit mode because the vehicle thinks you're trying to steal it. Seems to me you have a theft deterrent problem. There is three wires that come from that theft deterrent module. What I've done in the past is cut the yellow and white wires, ohm across the yellow and white wires leading back to the ignition cylinder with the key in the ignition and see what the ohm reading is....I then go buy a resistor for that same resistance value and solder it across the yellow and white wires leading back to the theft deterrent module. It'll start every time FOREVER!!! Either way, you're going to have to have it looked at. I don't think this is something you're going to be able to handle yourself. Let us know what happens.

 

 

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Thanks for all of the info guys. I am going to check all of these things..currently I have a complete dead battery from trying to do the reset last night...so I am off to get a new one (maybe this will fix everything) and no I do not have the resistant keys...I appreciate all the feedback since my boyfriend has tried everything possible to figure my truck out so I will let him read what you guys wrote. If I can get it started I'll go see what codes show up at Autozone.

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Update on my truck....took it to mechanic last week after 2 days of trying to get it started. Mechanic said it is the VDM ( which I already figured out) and suggested Pro Module to eliminate whole system. Currently waiting on the part and a call that my truck is ready. Will update when I get my truck and hopefully this will help anyway who has this same issue with vehicle not starting until security light goes out (which can take 10 minutes to 2 days) The part was ordered from Newrockies.com....

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Yes...def weird but after weeks of not knowing when and if my truck wants to start I am ready to try anything. This is basically removing the whole thing and wiring this bypass module in...

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If it doesn't have a resistor built into the key then it's a PK3 key. In that case, there has to be a DTC set in the theft deterrent module. I don't know if autozone can pull that code. I think they only pull check engine light related DTC's. Like, their scan tools just don't have the capability to retrieve theft deterrent codes.

 

 

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