Hoping to find someone who has owned or lifted or both a stock Silverado LS. I have yet to find anyone with experience or seen this exact lift. I am narrowed down to either a 5" with 33's or 7" with 35's.
With how low it sits, is 5" going to be enough or will it still be very low compared to stock trucks nowadays? I'll be using the stock 16" wheels.
How much will it affect the acceleration?
Hey all! So, as y’all know I have a 2014 Silverado. I installed LED reverse and cargo bulbs a couple months ago but I noticed there’s interference, and I don’t know what to do to fix it.
Calling all electricians out there that know what I could do to fix this.
Open for any responses, suggestions, and solutions.
I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
I've been working on my 14 Silverado the past couple weekends. I've replaced the ac condenser, the radiator, ac compressor and belt (belt was a btch!). I took the serpentine belt off to put the ac compressor belt on today and now I've got 3 or 4 inches of slack in the serp belt. I had to use a pry bar to move the belt tensioner to get the serp belt off, so I don't know if the tensioner is bad. It doesn't squeak or anything. I can't find the belt diagram for these newer models. I've found a spec for the serp belt for 72" length and I measured for the correct length. Any help is appreciated! I've gotta get this truck back on the road!
By green 788
Okay, Algore and company please leave the thread now and tune in to the most recent global warming propaganda station, as offensive stuff will follow.
If you have a problem with your cat converters clogging, and you end up gutting them (even temporarily to avoid engine damage), you may note some horrible gas mileage.
My truck... a 1996 K3500, 4 door, 8 foot bed, with 5.7 Vortec engine, 4L80e transmission.
My mileage went to 7.5 mph (yes, literally) after opening converters. I had been getting 11 to 12 mpg.
Fuel was so rich it would fog you out sitting at the drive thru. :o
I got lots of advice from various folks, up to and including that I needed to just "bite the bullet" and replace both cats and o2's or the truck would never get correct fuel mileage.
And the guy with the spinner in his ball cap of course points out that opening up the converters is ILLEGAL. (he likes to put that in all caps)... And his name is Ogilvie, regardless of what his forum handle happens to be.
But a GM tech who is a friend of mine told me to unplug the rear 2 oxygen sensors and see what happened.
That in fact worked *perfectly*... my truck began to run like it used to, and mileage went back to 11 to 12 mph.
I do realize there is a way to use anti-fouling spark plug spacers to offset the 02's in the front (maybe?) to create a temperature difference, and get rid of the check engine light. But my front 02's after 22 years don't want to budge.
I post this just in case it may help someone out there with the same problem.
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