By green 788
Okay, Algore and company please leave the thread now and tune in to the most recent global warming propaganda station, as offensive stuff will follow.
If you have a problem with your cat converters clogging, and you end up gutting them (even temporarily to avoid engine damage), you may note some horrible gas mileage.
My truck... a 1996 K3500, 4 door, 8 foot bed, with 5.7 Vortec engine, 4L80e transmission.
My mileage went to 7.5 mph (yes, literally) after opening converters. I had been getting 11 to 12 mpg.
Fuel was so rich it would fog you out sitting at the drive thru. :o
I got lots of advice from various folks, up to and including that I needed to just "bite the bullet" and replace both cats and o2's or the truck would never get correct fuel mileage.
And the guy with the spinner in his ball cap of course points out that opening up the converters is ILLEGAL. (he likes to put that in all caps)... And his name is Ogilvie, regardless of what his forum handle happens to be.
But a GM tech who is a friend of mine told me to unplug the rear 2 oxygen sensors and see what happened.
That in fact worked *perfectly*... my truck began to run like it used to, and mileage went back to 11 to 12 mph.
I do realize there is a way to use anti-fouling spark plug spacers to offset the 02's in the front (maybe?) to create a temperature difference, and get rid of the check engine light. But my front 02's after 22 years don't want to budge.
I post this just in case it may help someone out there with the same problem.
So Idk if this is in the right forum if not please move! Well I just bought a 2003 silverado with 216000 Km with a new tranny. I absolutely love it! Although I live in canada so the winters can be rough, It's a manual floor shift and my 4 low works fine but if I try to go into 4hi any time ( moving, stopped, in neutral ) nothin works, no 4x4 light or a sound like it's even trying to shift and it is pretty annoying having to go to neutral to use 4 low to get up a slight icy hill just to switch back to 2.
Hello I am a 20 year old that has put more money then I should in my truck but its mine so I want to do something that has been done before but isn't something everyone has. I was to take out my stock 4.8L motor and 4L60E tranny and drop a moded 6.0L with a 4L80E. I am a college student so I am seeking for mods and also some of the things I will have to take into consideration. I don't have to much money to do this (like I said I'm in college) so some cost saving mods and ways to this this will be great as well. I also wonder how the rear axel will be holding up if I do this and if I will need to change the gears. This truck is special to me for the fact I bought it off my moms soon to be husband before he passed away a year ago. just trying to build something unique and that he'd be proud of.
I have a 2001 silverado with the 5.3. It has about 153,000 miles and I have been having an issue that I haven't been able to track down. At idle it has a miss at idle, whether it is cold or warm. My knowledge says it is a vacuum leak somewhere that I cant find. There is no miss at any other rpm than idle. Recently as it has been getting colder (sub-30 degrees F) when I first start the pickup it shakes violently at idle, but after it warms up for about 30 seconds it runs as normal. Today when I started it and was warming it up my SES light started blinking, even though it was idling as normal. I shut the truck off because I knew that meant a multiple misfire code. I tried to start the pickup and it would not start. I plugged in my code reader, and I found the code P0300, or multiple misfire. I cleared the code and it started up and ran just as normal, with no issues. I drove it around 30 miles, shutting off an turning it back on numerous times to try and duplicate the issue but the code never came back. I have checked the intake gasket, which seems to be very intact. Where should I look next? Thanks for the help in advance.
Hey all, I can't seem to reliably find the compression on my '14 5.3L. I'm trying to nail this down because I'm quite curious about the fuel debate. I know there are a lot of opinions out there regarding which octane you should use, if it's better for the engine, better for mileage, etc, etc. Well, opinions shouldn't matter here, right? Based on the compression of the motor we should be able to do some basic math and figure out if a higher octane is even being fully burned or not.
Maybe I'm off here...but maybe I'm not! Weigh in!
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