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98 blazer Questions


Doug Rosewood

Question

So I bought a 98 blazer ls 4x4(4.3) as a beater to save some miles on the 2016. Its got some issues but nothing crazy major..appreciate any advice

 

1) drain plug drips after cooling down after driven..is this a common thing? I've never had a drain plug do this ever

 

2) the front lower portion of the block(under the fan) is coated in moist oil, nothing sprays out or pisses out its just coated everywhere(no visible sign of a leak)..any ideas?

 

3) lastly I have no idea what coolant is in this thing, could be dex cool could be the cheap stuff..i really don't want to flush the coolant out of this thing but I also don't want to turn the dex to fudge by mixing cheap stuff or dex into cheap stuff..is their another altnerative?

 

 

thanks

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You're lucky you live where you do. Here in MA, you have to get an inspection done 7 days after you put a vehicle on the road for the 1st time. They jack up the front end and check all of that - ball joints, tie rod ends, idler, pitman, bearings, etc.). Any play in ANYTHING up front, it will immediately fail, and you'd get a RED "R" sticker on the windshield - basically a cop magnet (revenue generator). Not supposed to be on the road with a red "R". A black "R" means you failed emissions - they at least give you 60 days for that. Shouldn't even be burdening people with those types (emission) of repairs, but I digress ...

 

All depends on the overall condition as to whether or not to fix it up. Anything can be fixed. Problem with those lines is, sometimes they just weep ... and other times they let go without warning. When they do that, you're stuck wherever it happens. Guys like us would notice the low oil pressure and kill it before it ruins anything expensive, but quite a few people keep on blissfully driving, and grenade the engine. Turns a perfectly good vehicle into scrap instantly, especially if they have to pay someone to install an engine.

 

A cheap option is to remove that whole assembly of lines, and cut the crimps off - then run to your local NAPA and get some hydraulic hose, and double, or triple clamp it to the aluminum lines. I've done that on a couple high-mile vehicles. Only thing with worm clamps is you need to remember to check them at every oil change. Really don't need to check that often, but it's a great habit to get into.

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Wow - that's got to be a record for these trucks. Here in MA I never saw one go much over 80k before they were smoked. Our roads are worse than dirt ones ...

 

Glad you got it sorted out. :cheers:

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I had an 98 Two door Tahoe a few years ago paid 5K for it every thing worked and it had 130K miles on it. I slowly address the issue similar to yours put 30K miles on it sold it and got all my investment back. Wished I kept it for its uniqueness and reliability.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Usually lean codes are pretty accurate. Any lean condition will get worse in cooler weather (air is more dense), and that's compounded by the fact that metal also contracts with cold (if it's indeed a gasket issue).

 

With winter coming, you'll probably find the leak with cooling ambient temps. A gasket leak will get much worse, especially at cruise (usually will throw a P0300 due to lean misfires) - you'd feel it skip a bit at cruise, but at idle or full throttle, it will run normally. If it's a leaking vacuum hose, weather won't change the problem much.

 

Forgot to mention that an exhaust leak upstream of the upstream sensors can cause lean codes too. Could also try cleaning your MAF and see if anything changes.

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#2 is one that should be addressed immediately - it's more than likely the remote oil filter lines that go from where the oil filter is normally, to up front near the radiator. Those lines are notorious for blowing out and frying many engines if left unchecked. Whatever you do, DO NOT replace them with DORMAN lines - I did, and they leaked in less than 1 year. There's a chance it could just be leaky transmission cooler lines too. You'll have to investigate which it is.

 

The drain plug probably just needs a new seal - most are plastic these days. If you can find a soft copper one, that's the way to go there. It could also be a stripped drain plug from trips to Jiffy Lube, et.al..

 

Those came with Dex from the factory - I'd dump it and refill with Prestone green & distilled water.

 

My '00 Jimmy had Dex in it too ....

 

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This thing had been rode hard and put away wet it's entire life. The suspension was so rusted and decayed that it took days of soaking just to be able to break loose the parts. All 4 boots on the balls were torn and smashed, sway links were crushed and hanging on by a thread. The CV axle splines were fused to the hubs via rust also. I haven't tryed 4x4 yet, I'm a little nervous that it won't disengage lol. The motor runs well though, an oddity though is sometimes when I start it, it kind of pops and lurches once the starter disengages

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So far, a buddy's replaced the hoses, pitman and idler arm..the timing chain gasket wasent even leaking it was a false diag. Went to get it aligned and the shop wouldn't touch it without putting in new lower ball joints..get to tackle that Sunday..any tips for a quick change out? I'm guessing the factory joints were replaced a long time ago so no rivets

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Either a blend door problem, or a vacuum leak in the dash, or under the hood somewhere. Check the connection to the orb (vacuum canister) inside the driver's side fender up towards the firewall. You'll see the vacuum line going to it. If not, you'll need to find and connect it.

 

Several Blazers I've worked on, this orb wasn't even connected. It's fun trying to get your fingers in there - might need a pair of angled needle nose pliers to make it easier.

 

Blend door problems are also common on this generation. That job is much less fun ...

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It's possible it could've just been a batch of fuel with high ethanol content. Wouldn't be the first time that's happened. Hopefully it stays off.

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Ended up putting sway link in it too..they were about ready to break. Went to get it aligned and was told driver side control arm won't move lol..told them I don't care if it has a slight pull, long as it doesn't chop tires...next up, trying to figure out if it has dex cool in it or not..lol joys of beaters

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