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So, I really liked the feature on the Ford F-150 where you can release the tailgate using the key fob. I wanted to do it on my 2017 Silverado. I found a past topic on this forum that mentioned it, but had no instructions. I was able to piece together enough information from various forums and came up with a working solution for anybody that is interested. I have attached a diagram for making the connections. I tapped off the power lock in the tailgate and used a T-connector to tap power from the trailer wiring.

 

T-Connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009FJ38Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Video showing it working:

 

The PAC TR-7 counts a set number of pulses within a defined time. When it detects the programmed number of pulses, it sends a pulse to the actuators to open the tailgate. I have mine set to count four pulses in three seconds.

 

Parts needed:

2 Heavy Duty power door lock actuators

2 Bosch style relays

PAC TR-7

Wire

 

The major hurdle was that the power lock system is "energized" at six volts and sends a 12 volt pulse for locking/unlocking. The PAC module detects the 6 volts as a "pulse" and thus would lock out the timer. So it would open the tailgate every fourth or whatever number that was set. Using 2 relays solved this problem.

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That's awesome. To bad I stink at electrical work otherwise I'd definitely look to do this.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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Any pics of how you mounted the actuators in the tailgate? I've been wanting to do this along with adding the power lock/unlock feature to the tailgate.

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That's awesome. To bad I stink at electrical work otherwise I'd definitely look to do this.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Ha ha!! Me too! I'd definitely blow my warranty out of the water if I attempted this and fried my electrical system.

Very cool feature though.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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There's an aftermarket version called the pop and lock. It's probably a little easier to install than piecing this together.

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Pop & Lock PL8140. Just bought mine and hope to have it in next week. Luckily I'm friends with a GM tech who specializes in the electrical side of things so he'll be doing the wiring, he just doesn't know it yet.

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There's an aftermarket version called the pop and lock. It's probably a little easier to install than piecing this together.

Pop & Lock PL8140. Just bought mine and hope to have it in next week. Luckily I'm friends with a GM tech who specializes in the electrical side of things so he'll be doing the wiring, he just doesn't know it yet.

I just looked that up. It appears to add a power locking feature to the tailgate.

 

My mod remotely opens the tailgate. It doesn't appear that the PL8140 does the same thing. Am I missing something?

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You're right. I had a brain fart when I wrote that.

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I just looked that up. It appears to add a power locking feature to the tailgate.

 

My mod remotely opens the tailgate. It doesn't appear that the PL8140 does the same thing. Am I missing something?

My bad, I misunderstood about power opening vs power lock.

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I'd love to see some pics of the wiring and install.

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I just looked that up. It appears to add a power locking feature to the tailgate.

 

My mod remotely opens the tailgate. It doesn't appear that the PL8140 does the same thing. Am I missing something?

 

You also have the remove tailgate lock on your 2017?

Would there be any issues having that and trying to add this?

Would you have to unlock the tailgate first and then press the button for letting down the tailgate?

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You also have the remove tailgate lock on your 2017?

Would there be any issues having that and trying to add this?

Would you have to unlock the tailgate first and then press the button for letting down the tailgate?

I don't understand what you mean by remove tailgate lock.

 

My truck has factory power locks. Everything works as it did before except I now have the option to open the tailgate from the key fob. Using the key fob to open will open the tailgate regardless of whether or not the tailgate is locked. The locking mechanism merely disconnects the handle on the tailgate from operating the release mechanism.

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I don't understand what you mean by remove tailgate lock.

 

My truck has factory power locks. Everything works as it did before except I now have the option to open the tailgate from the key fob. Using the key fob to open will open the tailgate regardless of whether or not the tailgate is locked. The locking mechanism merely disconnects the handle on the tailgate from operating the release mechanism.

 

Sorry, was asking whether you had the factory installed tailgate lock. My tailgate locks/unlocks when I push the lock/unlock button on my FOB.

 

I see now you do.

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So, I really liked the feature on the Ford F-150 where you can release the tailgate using the key fob. I wanted to do it on my 2017 Silverado. I found a past topic on this forum that mentioned it, but had no instructions. I was able to piece together enough information from various forums and came up with a working solution for anybody that is interested. I have attached a diagram for making the connections. I tapped off the power lock in the tailgate and used a T-connector to tap power from the trailer wiring.

 

T-Connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009FJ38Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Video showing it working:

 

The PAC TR-7 counts a set number of pulses within a defined time. When it detects the programmed number of pulses, it sends a pulse to the actuators to open the tailgate. I have mine set to count four pulses in three seconds.

 

Parts needed:

2 Heavy Duty power door lock actuators

2 Bosch style relays

PAC TR-7

Wire

 

The major hurdle was that the power lock system is "energized" at six volts and sends a 12 volt pulse for locking/unlocking. The PAC module detects the 6 volts as a "pulse" and thus would lock out the timer. So it would open the tailgate every fourth or whatever number that was set. Using 2 relays solved this problem.

I did this on my truck a while back and had all kinds of issues with the tailgate opening when I put it in park etc. Another member posted a solution that was beyond my electrical understanding so I'm going to try the second relay you did to see if I can get it to work properly. Thanks for the tip!

 

You can't see the pictures in my thread below due to photobuckets new policy I'm not sure I'm going to pay for but if you search MrMarv on photobucket you can find the album in the left column of the home page.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/193210-2016-silverado-remote-opening-tailgate/

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I did this on my truck a while back and had all kinds of issues with the tailgate opening when I put it in park etc. Another member posted a solution that was beyond my electrical understanding so I'm going to try the second relay you did to see if I can get it to work properly. Thanks for the tip!

 

You can't see the pictures in my thread below due to photobuckets new policy I'm not sure I'm going to pay for but if you search MrMarv on photobucket you can find the album in the left column of the home page.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/193210-2016-silverado-remote-opening-tailgate/

Yep, that was the thread I was referring too. I could never get his posted solution about using the brake light to trigger another relay to work correctly.

 

I understood the general premise, but on my TR-7 it would appear that the timer resets with each pulse that it sees. So instead of the first pulse triggering the timer (I have mine set for 3 seconds) and then waiting for three more pulses within three seconds, it just checks to see if it receives another pulse within that three seconds. So essentially, if you wait to the end of the timer, a setting of four pulses and three seconds could trigger the module in as long as nine seconds (Pulse... 3 seconds... pulse... 3 seconds...pulse... 3 seconds... pulse).

 

So even though the brake light was breaking the trigger pulse cycle, it would open every time using the blinker/hazards no matter what settings I used on the TR-7. (Yeah, there are random bits of left over wire inside my tailgate now)

 

My solution is also electrically simpler and not subject to that weird double pulse counting thing (IE the TR-7 will detect 6 pulses when pressing unlock three times). The relay does not activate until it detects a 12 volt pulse versus the detection range of the TR-7 starting as low as something like 0.65volts. So when the relay detects 12 volts (the real pulse, not just the system standby/wakeup/whatever it is) it sends a pulse to the TR-7. The original relay as described is just for sending power to the actuators.

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