Control Arm questions

[ebk]

I have a 2003 Yukon XL 1500 5.3L AWD and need to replace one of the lower ball joints. I looked at the control arm bushings and the inside lips of them are cracked with portions missing, but the thicker outside lips are solid. I have no noticeable symptoms, other than the up and down play of the ball joint. I've read some horror stories about some control arm bushing removal and replacement. The control arms are cast or forged steel, not the stamped or aluminum ones. Also, the bushings are the the solid rubber ones with no metal outer sleeve. The questions for you are: how much additional work is it to replace the bushings, and how much of a pain is it to press out and in the bushings with a handheld ball joint press? Also, I want to do this without having to do an alignment, and I am assuming that I might be able to get away with it, if I just do the ball joint. However, I am thinking that it would be necessary, if I do the bushings. Also, I understand that I need to release the tension from the torsion bar for the bushings or support the control arm for just the ball joint. I would appreciate your feedback on any or all of the above and any tips that you might have. Thanks for your help!

[Chubbs878]

Common practice is to replace the entire control arm assembly complete with new bushings & ball joint. It's the same price and 1/10 the time & labor compared to rebuilding the original CA. I don't think folks do that anymore. Plus it's prob damn near impossible without the proper equipment. 1aAuto has a YouTube video for the CA replace.

 

FYI per their video, the torsion bar does NOT require unloading so need to worry about that. You will absolutely need a wheel alignment following replacement. Best to replace both DS & PS simultaneously. Even if only 1 side is faulty, the other side soon follows.

[Chubbs878]

I suppose that if you replaced the BJ only, you can get away skipping the alignment. That won't make a huge difference. Time will tell, just keep checking the wear pattern on your front tires. The steering feeling awkward or pulling to 1 side obviously points to a much-needed wheel alignment. Just put a mid-grade BJ in it and go from there. check for any play or sloppiness in the bushing pivot points while replacing the BJ; at that point you will know if you need a whole new CA fully loaded.

[ebk]

Thank you for the sound advice! Do you have any suggestions on control arm brands?

[ebk]

Great, thanks again! I will definitely check out the play in the bushings. I would love to squeak by, at this point, with just the ball joint. I will let you know how it goes. Looks like others have had some difficulty getting them out. The factory joints are pressed in and some metal is displaced on the top edge of the BJ to help keep them in place. I guess if use a chisel to push these tabs back, perhaps I won't have too much of an issue getting them out. Do you have any suggestions with ball joints like these?

[Chubbs878]

Yes. I use 1 of those pneumatic barrels with the chisel insert. I bought it @ HF for $20, and an extra box of variety attachments for another $10. It works every time for damn near anything. All you need is an air compressor, nothing heavy duty but large enough to push air tools. And you have to oil the tool initially & frequently; newbies overlook this small detail.

Having different styles of chisel allows you to "pry" pressed pieces out, cut/peel small tabs or keepers, then completely shear. Whatever you gotta do. Oh, they also sell a ball joint fork for that thing too. Also @ HF. Saved my life removing pitman drop arm on old muscle car job several months ago. Get that attachment too. Even if you only use this stuff 1-time it pays for itself @ a grand total of $30 give or take.

 

If you don't have a shop full of tools I wouldn't try to rebuild CA. I have access to a lot of stuff and still had hell doing this. Ball joint, OK. Complete removal and bushing replace, no.

 

Anybody can buy a press but unless you have a complete kit of cups and pushers to actually press your work, you spend hours trying to find and stack all random bits & pieces you can scrounge up: and if they don't fit exact, you destroy new parts/bush in the process and get put on hold once again. Not worth it unless your pro set up to do this type of work.

[sdeeter19555]

The "C" press and adapter kit are both available from Harbor Freight...I have both, both have serviced multiple vehicles and the press gets used all the time for odd things.

 

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[sdeeter19555]

I also bought a full set of OTC joint presses (tie rod, rod end, etc.) for a little over $100 online...well worth the investment.

 

Having the right tool makes things so much easier and less frustrating.

 

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[Chubbs878]

I also bought a full set of OTC joint presses (tie rod, rod end, etc.) for a little over $100 online...well worth the investment.

 

Having the right tool makes things so much easier and less frustrating.

 

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^^^^

yes. you need the press kit, a complete and well-equipped kit. really, it can come out to be more expensive than your everyday BJ clamp or press but actually the most important/desirable.

 

but the OP addressed his concern of completing this job for cheap. this def. isn't the cheap route and def not the route if you aren't going to use this equip more than 1 or 2 times.

[sdeeter19555]

Cheap can get very expensive with wasted downtime and when you can't complete the task...been there, done that. Some of my tools have been used once, the grief saved was worth the money spent. I have even fabricated tools in order to make life easier.

 

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[ebk]

Thanks, guys! I really appreciate the advice. I will get the tools that you had suggested and keep you posted. Any pearls of wisdom on getting the bearing hub off? Thanks again!

[ebk]

I have the c-arm press and cups that fit. I had to get the expansion kit to get it right. I ordered a cheap air hammer with a chisel, a pickle fork set, and a hammer attachment. I should be set. Let me know the best way to get that hub off. Do I need a hub puller? Thanks again!

[Chubbs878]

Cheap can get very expensive with wasted downtime and when you can't complete the task...been there, done that. Some of my tools have been used once, the grief saved was worth the money spent. I have even fabricated tools in order to make life easier.

 

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every piece that I have ever used to extract and press a ball joint was fabricated and/or fashioned in some way. I work at an industrial metal fabricator with CNC on large scale so i don't have to buy much of anything unless im in a jamb or feeling half-lazy. If i can avoid clamps/press i try to get the piece up to work and press everything on our sheet metal brake. I don't know what they are rated at from the top of my head but it can do .5" plate all day, everyday for 1 year and never even need to be serviced.

 

[Chubbs878]

Do I need a hub puller? Thanks again!

No hub puller required. All nuts & bolts. You will need some 1/2" drive tools (breaker bar/ratchet & cheater pipe combo) or quality impact wrench to remove the hub stake nut after you pull the rotor off. 3-4 bolts securing hub to spindle. You have to buy a new hub stake-nut; not supposed to re-use the original. They always show removal of CVshaft & wheel hub to R&R control arm. A1auto has a great how-to video for lower CA on YouTube.

[ebk]

Thanks for the additional tips and for all of your help! Will try to do it today and keep you posted.