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Fabsmith's 4.8 to 6.0 build


Fabsmith

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Hey guys new member new build here. Ill apologize right off for being long winded lol. I cant help it, I tend to be over descriptive in my posts. But anyways Ive been on here for a long time and since im pulling the trigger on my 6.0 swap i figured id sign up incase i hit any snags along the way. Ive always been a sports car kinda guy. I got the sport truck bug after seeing how good the 99-06 body styles look dropped on some nice wheels with a few tasteful cosmetics. I had to have one! I found an 02 model with a 4.8 auto with 170k. It runs great and cosmetically is in very good shape for the miles also. However before i ever bought the truck, i had a 97 240sx swap planned that i had purchased a 6.0 for. i never got around to the swap and sold the car and engine but was lucky enough to buy the engine back for 400 dollars!!! when i bought the engine it didnt include anything. its all there but came with no computer, throttle body or harness I have a degree in automotive systems but i currently work in a machine shop. I have the know how to do the swap but i did have a couple questions i wasnt sure about.

 

1st. I know with this engine being from an 03 vehicle that had drive by cable, I can literally just straight swap it and anything it needs i can switch from the 4.8. However i dont Have the computer for it. i do know the 4.8 will run it but not to its full potential. this is my concern. when people say it will run it, does that mean yes it will start and you can move it around the driveway if needed..... or will it run it well enough that i can drive it. Im asking because this is my only vehicle and i wanted to make sure i was safe to drive the truck to work. im going to do the swap over a weekend and im trying to source a 6.0 computer locally but have not procured one yet.

 

2nd question. I have a 2001 model ls1 cam and basically all the stock top end head guts from a top end build i did on my 01 ss camaro. these parts have 19k miles on them. I know the ls6 cam is great upgrade for the vortec engines but i was sure if the ls1 cam would help any at all. i know it would swing the torque curve a bit but would it be worth it while the engine is out? Id like to keep the 6.0 down to a mild build. intake exhaust, mild cam. i may build the top end a bit down the road but other than that i dont plan to do any sort of big hp or power adders. i just want a good healthy strong running 6.0 that i can drive anywhere and have fun doing it.

 

3rd. this is a wheels question. I live in the mountains of North carolina and in my area we have some of the best roads in this part of the country. My original plan was to get the truck down low and stiff and get the weight down some. and also find a set of wheels that look good but dont weigh a ton. Basically a set for performance rather than bling and gliss. However most of the truck builds ive seen are more about the low and the look instead of the handling or road perf aspect of it. And yea im not dense i know a full size truck isnt a great choice for a canyon carving hell beast but i have spent a lot of time on these roads in this truck and i know the potential for more is there. Ive only found a couple sets of wheels that seem to offer what im after. the 6 lug hubs dont make the search very easy so i wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions on brands or wheels or stores to check?

 

Im hoping to post pics of this process and everything involved as i go incase future swappers need some help. I already have everything but the computer and some oil so im itching to get this ball rolling finally! Thanks for looking and for any help. im headed out to get some pics now

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys new member new build here. Ill apologize right off for being long winded lol. I cant help it, I tend to be over descriptive in my posts. But anyways Ive been on here for a long time and since im pulling the trigger on my 6.0 swap i figured id sign up incase i hit any snags along the way. Ive always been a sports car kinda guy. I got the sport truck bug after seeing how good the 99-06 body styles look dropped on some nice wheels with a few tasteful cosmetics. I had to have one! I found an 02 model with a 4.8 auto with 170k. It runs great and cosmetically is in very good shape for the miles also. However before i ever bought the truck, i had a 97 240sx swap planned that i had purchased a 6.0 for. i never got around to the swap and sold the car and engine but was lucky enough to buy the engine back for 400 dollars!!! when i bought the engine it didnt include anything. its all there but came with no computer, throttle body or harness I have a degree in automotive systems but i currently work in a machine shop. I have the know how to do the swap but i did have a couple questions i wasnt sure about.

 

1st. I know with this engine being from an 03 vehicle that had drive by cable, I can literally just straight swap it and anything it needs i can switch from the 4.8. However i dont Have the computer for it. i do know the 4.8 will run it but not to its full potential. this is my concern. when people say it will run it, does that mean yes it will start and you can move it around the driveway if needed..... or will it run it well enough that i can drive it. Im asking because this is my only vehicle and i wanted to make sure i was safe to drive the truck to work. im going to do the swap over a weekend and im trying to source a 6.0 computer locally but have not procured one yet.

 

2nd question. I have a 2001 model ls1 cam and basically all the stock top end head guts from a top end build i did on my 01 ss camaro. these parts have 19k miles on them. I know the ls6 cam is great upgrade for the vortec engines but i was sure if the ls1 cam would help any at all. i know it would swing the torque curve a bit but would it be worth it while the engine is out? Id like to keep the 6.0 down to a mild build. intake exhaust, mild cam. i may build the top end a bit down the road but other than that i dont plan to do any sort of big hp or power adders. i just want a good healthy strong running 6.0 that i can drive anywhere and have fun doing it.

 

3rd. this is a wheels question. I live in the mountains of North carolina and in my area we have some of the best roads in this part of the country. My original plan was to get the truck down low and stiff and get the weight down some. and also find a set of wheels that look good but dont weigh a ton. Basically a set for performance rather than bling and gliss. However most of the truck builds ive seen are more about the low and the look instead of the handling or road perf aspect of it. And yea im not dense i know a full size truck isnt a great choice for a canyon carving hell beast but i have spent a lot of time on these roads in this truck and i know the potential for more is there. Ive only found a couple sets of wheels that seem to offer what im after. the 6 lug hubs dont make the search very easy so i wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions on brands or wheels or stores to check?

 

Im hoping to post pics of this process and everything involved as i go incase future swappers need some help. I already have everything but the computer and some oil so im itching to get this ball rolling finally! Thanks for looking and for any help. im headed out to get some pics now

 

 

Im not sure about the cam (do what you feel is best, i have a feeling you may run into a fitment issue with the LS1 cam but I'm not 100% sure so I recommend going to ls1tech.com and checking through the forums there for your answer.) If you want to keep the computer with the stock 4.8 tune, I would leave the back o2 sensors unplugged or find another way to keep the computer in open loop mode, this will make the computer constantly monitor all the sensors and adjust accordingly to live data instead of preprogrammed set data parameters GM puts in for closed loop mode. You also need to extend your wiring harness for the knock sensors since they will be on the side of the engine instead of in the valley cover under the intake.

 

Only time engine runs in open loop mode is at wide open throttle and when the engine is warming up, 160°f it kicks everything into closed loop mode again. Eventually these preset parameters will adjust to your driving habits a smidge.

 

Going this route will keep the check engine light on and I also don't recommend it. But if you want to try it, go for it. I doubt it will lead to massive engine failure if that's your worry. It will safely run the engine without making it run lean as long as your not drag racing it. I do recommend calling up blackbear tuners and let them tune your truck. Its pretty affordable if your only needing to tune the truck once or twice and they will make it to whatever is best for your setup.

 

I would also make sure the injectors you have are the bigger ones. The early models 4.8l engines had smaller injectors because they also had smaller intake valves. I can't remember the cutoff year, but I think it was from 99-2002 models. Before the noncable throttles bodies. (Drive-by wire but some people get that confused with drive by cable) (also you can have blackbear turn on the drive-by-wire pin-out on the computer and install a drive by wire pedal. Go pull an intake and pedal with the harness from a pick a part junkyard.)

 

Best of luck, hope I helped out, I could also be wrong about everything I just said, but I'm just going off of my experiences! Thats all anyone can do.

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

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Hey guys sorry for the late reply, I work 3-2am and also go to school full time during the day. So time is very precious to me lol. anyways the 6.0 i acquired is a 2003 model for sure according to its numbers and i was also thinking it was drive by wire but the intake manifold that had never been removed has a 3 bolt throttle mount which if im not mistaken were only cable drive? i think the DBW TBs were 4 bolt, at least i know the newer ones are. the knock sensors are the same on the 4.8 as the 6.0. at least they are with mine luckily

 

Ive found a guy with a hoard of ls parts and hes assured me he has a 6.0 computer thats DBC that he would sell me for 40 bucks. So im gonna go that route so i dont have to worry with a tune right off. and as far as the cam goes Im gonna wait there as well. I figure if im gonna do a cam i might as well wait till i can get exactly what i need. Itll be more work in the long run but i dont mind the extra work. Im gonna keep the goal simple, get it in, get it running and drive it. then ill worry about pepping it up.

 

as of right now the computer seems to be the last piece of my puzzle to get this ball rolling. I really need a torque converter as well but its gonna have to wait. Im not planning on beating this thing, its just a dd at the moment so i have to keep it alive.

 

truck has 4.8 running and driving perfectly fine so anything missing from the 6.0 ill swipe from the 4.8. as of now it seems to just be the following needed to complete the 6.0

 

-Dipstick tube

-sensor that sits behind throttle body on top of intake (the vac tube got broken in storage)

-throttle body

-manifolds

 

maybe a few other minor bits and bobs but im fairly certain this is everything. Ill be able to double check when i have the 2 sitting beside each other. I may also have to switch flex plates too but again i wont know for sure till i have them beside each other.

 

Now ill try to get you guys some pics up. might be a little tricky since photobucket went ape sh*t. but ill find a new host if i have to. thanks again for all the help and info. ill look into ls1 tech. ive had an account since 06 i think so its been a valuable source for me for years.

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I havent finished my engine stand yet so it sits on the floor for the time being..

 

20170916_140419.jpg

 

20170916_140427.jpg

 

Here is the start of some clean up

 

20170916_142928.jpg

 

20170916_142933.jpg

 

 

20170916_142937.jpg

 

 

 

 

This is all the pics i have for now. I want to stay on top of this thread and keep pics and updates throughout the process. Ill get some more up after some cleaning and a little more work. thanks for looking and for your help!

This is all the pics i have for now. I want to stay on top of this thread and keep pics and updates through the process so i can

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Yupp, that's definitely a genIII drive by cable engine, have fun doing the swap. Make sure you swap over the flex plate from your 4.8 engine as the 6.0 probably has one on it for a 4l80e trans and they are a smidge different.

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good news and bad..

 

I pulled the 4.8 engine from my truck, switched the flexplate as noted. Then i had to switch the oil pressure sending unit because the 4.8 had a tall one and the 6.0 had a short one. Lastly i had to use the 4.8 intake manifold because i smelled varnish in the fuel lines and rail of the 6.0 and i didnt want to undo the injectors and such to switch over everything. after that she went right in and fired right up surprisingly. The engine hadnt been out or into before so some of the bolts were a little stubborn. All in all it took me about a full day to get one out and the other in.

 

the computer i found for the 6.0 had to have the VATS system deleted so i could use it on my engine. While they were in there they went ahead and increased my 4l60 line pressure 5% to help it live a little better with the power of the 6.0. they also deleted my rear o2 sensors and anything else emisions related from the computer. works wonderfully.

 

Now for the issues..

 

1st thing the engine had sat for about 3 or 4 years before i put it in so i expected a little rough running at first. I had been spraying lube into it to make sure everything stayed well lubricated to prevent seals and such from drying out. As expected when i turned the key there was a lot of smoking and choking that slowly smoothed out to a fairly good clean running engine... except for the lifter noise

 

2nd now that engine is in and running, I have light chatter from the top end on the driver side. naturally i assume its lifters collapsed and some run time and marvel mystery oil down the hatch should help some. Which it did help a lot but it didnt completely cure the problem. theres still a faint ticking sound and a p0300 code.

 

3rd in doing this swap i broke my oil pressure sending unit. so i had to buy a new one the next day. after installing the new one i noticed when i start the engine my oil psi is extremely low and only under load does it ever make it up to 20 psi. thats a hell of jump from a 177k mile 4,8 with a solid 40+ psi of oil pressure to this 80k mile 6.0 that barely has 8 or 10 at idle...

 

After some explorative surgery IE removing the valve covers i see all my rockers are tight on both sides. even the most loose of them i could barely move at all. none rattly loose.

 

My next plan is to pull the oil pump and see if i can replace the o ring for the pick up tube as well as check the bleed off valve and possibly shim the spring to get the psi up a little because this engine is going to see some upgrades. if that doesnt cure my lifter sound and my low psi then i guess im gonna have to pull this engine back out and run the 4.8 until i can do some more intense and expensive replacements.

 

Its super annoying to go through all this work and have an engine thats a little sick in the end. And i just know it sitting for so long has to have played some part. I guess this is why you go through engines and triple check all the parts before you install them lol. However even with the issue its unreal how much stronger this engine is over the 4.8. its so peppy and strong feeling. the line pressure on the trans probably helps that feeling as well but the two are really different animals. and even with the problem its still a really smooth running engine. I cant imagine how much better it can be without this issue plaguing me.

 

Now for some pics of this process!

 

And btw any input on this problem at all would be wonderful. Any advising or ideas are greatly appreciated

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here it is after a considerable amount of cleaning

 

20170916_191747.jpg

 

heres my awesome chain rigging. the apparatus that has the adjustments was mia so this was the best i could come up with and it worked pretty good.

 

DSCN0144.jpg

 

And here she is all in and ready to go together.

 

DSCN0146.jpg

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DSCN0147.jpg

 

looks pretty happy in there if you ask me..

 

I didnt have a throttle body for the 6.0 manifold and it also had a non return fuel rail on it so i just used the one off the 4.8. you wouldnt believe the buildup i had to dig out of this thing. pics of that below

 

DSCN0149.jpg

 

Here you can see how much buildup the 4.8 had accumulated over 177k miles. surprisingly there was no smoke, no rough idle. it ran as smooth as can be.. nasty..

 

DSCN0156.jpg

 

DSCN0158.jpg

 

Thats at least a 1/4 inch of buildup in some places

 

the only issue it had before i pulled it was the bad knock sensors that set off the light maybe a week before i pulled it..

and after having it out i found out just why that was lol

 

DSCN0153.jpg

 

made sense afterseeing that..

 

heres the other.. not as bad but def looks like it was due replacing.

 

DSCN0155.jpg

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And thats where i am as of now. engine is in and running but had a p0300 code. It has tight lifters and 20 psi max of oil pressure so im gonna pull the oil pump and replace the o ring and check the bleed off valve for debri or crap that dont need to be there. If all that checks out im prob gonna have to pull heads and do lifters

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I recently replaced my oil pressure sending unit in my truck because the old one was leaking, I got a cheapy replacement from O'Reilly's and my oil psi was reading super low like yours, 20psi and really only under load. So I went and bought some locktite, and reinstalled my old oil pressure sending unit. No leaks and oil pressure readings back to normal. 

I did hear a slight popping noise when I installed the new oil pressure sending unit and I'm wondering if I broke it internally somehow. It looked fine when I pulled it back out. Who knows why is was broken.

 

As for the lifter noise, does it do it constantly or just on start up until it gets above 160°f. Also check that your manifold bolts are all tight as a loose one will cause a ticking noise that can be mistaken for lifter noise. 

Best of luck!

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it does it mostly at idle and it quietens as i raise the rpms. ive got the front of the motor off and i can feel the pick up tube. its loose as hell so im gonna fix that tonight, ill try the oil psi unit tomorrow and at some point im gonna throw a re man power steering pump through the carquest window lol. it has done nothing but whine and moan and groan just as bad as the wore out one i pulled off.  Whew the ol truck needs its work but after the swap its all down hill from here. i consider this the working out of bugs stage still so ill report back as soon as i have some more feild tests for you. thanks a ton for the reply. i have a new job from the fab shop so ill have a lot more time to keep info coming

 

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