Crank but no fire - no crank second time.

[Parachute Adams]

Hello, All,

 

I was hoping for some suggestions from you guys on a no-start problem.

 

I have:

2003 Chev Silverado 1500 5.3 Vortec Quadrasteer.

 

Last Saturday, I experienced low power (windows and power seats) while driving. I shut the truck off at my destination and it would not start again or take a boost from a vehicle. Walked to shop, bought brand new batt and replaced it. The truck started up heavy and ran great that whole day with multiple shut offs and lots of driving. Vehicle sat the next day with one evening trip to get groceries. Monday morning, fired up normal but noticed headlights seemed dim. Went for gas and truck fired up fine again after getting gas. After that I was driving at highway speeds (100km/h) and within 12 km from the gas station my radio went quiet and my lights dimmed again and the truck slowly died. I called for a tow and waited, around the half hour mark of waiting, I tried the truck again and it started. Drove about 6 km and it died again with some chugging at the end as it was slowly lowing speed.

 

Once I was towed home I went straight to the part yard and got a new alternator. I came home and installed that but this is where things get weird.

 

After I installed the new alternator, I turn the key and the truck will crank but not fire. As soon as I let off they and then turn it again for a second try, nothing happens. There is power to everything but absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key, no crank, no attempt, no grind, no whine, no nothing!

 

If I walk away from the truck and leave it for 30 minutes, I can go back then and again, the first time I turn the key it cranks but doesn't fire and second time, again, nothing.

 

I am not a mechanic but do take pride in being able to look out for myself. I am no electrician either (carpenter by trade, d'oh!). I will list the things I have tried below but if anyone has a suggestion outside of a scanner or tow to a shop I would be very great-full.

 

• Batt is brand new and has taken a trickle charge overnight (just-in-case) and it also holds power while in the truck and I'm at work so I don't think there is a draw.
• Alternator is new from the pick-n-pull.
• boost from cars and booster packs.
• replaced fuel pump in 2015 and have tried banging on tank while someone cranks it and can hear it.
• ....... looked at wires and don't see breaks but again - not and electrician.

The fact that it doesn't crank the second time is very confusing to me and gives me reason to believe it isn't any of the things I mentioned above I just don't know where to go from here.

 

Thank you all for your time. I am going to take my dog to the park to think about this.

 

 

 

[Parachute Adams]

I have just discovered that if I jump out and disconnect the batt after the no crank. I can re-connect the batt and get another try at it turning over right away, but again still won't even crank the second time .

[sefiroxx]

Sounds like main cables are not tight. Check main positive at battery and alternator. Check ground at battery and engine/body

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

[Parachute Adams]

Thanks for the ideas, I will check all connections and grounds.

[txab]

Check the cables themselves for failing internally. Used to be reports on the GMT 800 series from time to time

[Parachute Adams]

Xtxab , thanks, do you mean the battery cables themselves? I am for sure in the GMT 800 frame.

[txab]

yes

[Parachute Adams]

Hi Guys,

 

I had the alternator tested today and it came back 'good' all three times at the Auto Value in town so I brought it home again and didn't buy a new one. I have checked the wiring everywhere, the connections and cleaned everything again.

 

I checked the ecm fuse with a light tester and it receives power. The batt has been disconnected a million times so it should have reset itself (I think, maybe not). I checked all the rest of the fuses and they all seem to be getting power as well. I also swapped out the starter fuse with the identical one next to it to see if that made a difference but it did not

 

I got underneath and banged on my starter with a hammer and that didn't change anything. Since it cranks but just doesn't fire, I didn't plan to spend much time on the starter.

 

I have found since doing all of these things, the intermittent crank is much less. I can crank the engine and if I let off the key and take it out wait less than 30 seconds I can put the key back in a crank it again right away it just won't fire.

 

Also for good measure I just had a neighbor crank it while I was banging on the fuel tank. Even though I lost power while driving and it seems like an electrical problem this would be my next guess.

 

I am off to get a spark tester now.

 

Thanks for reading.

[bgbdwlf2500]

I would replace the main ground wire from the battery to the frame. it may be broken in the middle, positive could also have the same issue.

[Motor City Rick]

I strongly suggest as others, change the positive and negative cables outright.

 

Get the largest gauge (thickest / fattest) battery cable you can find that will fit your truck. You require a 1/0 gauge (minimum) to 2/0 gauge (fatter preferred).

 

There can be a hidden high resistance in the cable ends where the wire meets the metal connector. There's times the corrosion can't bee seen through the insulation.

 

Next, anytime you have a crank, ...no fire. It has to be determine is it mechanical (note in this case)??? Is it fuel or ignition???

 

When you have this crank, no fire condition, get a can of "either". Shoot 2 or 3 puffs past the throttle plate. If the motor runs for second or two or burps / buck, it's fuel issue. Nothing happens it's ignition.

 

Now go do this test and report back what happened.