6.0 block heater

i82much · November 6, 2017

Curious what your thoughts are if you have the factory block heater.. I do not, and I would like shorter warm-up times. I have heard some newer block heaters turn off at a fairly low temp, is this true? Anyway, trying to decide whether it would be worth it to pay dealer to add the block heater.

SierraHD17 · November 6, 2017

It's just a screw in heating element in the water jacket above the oil cooler on the drivers side. Gm's setup has a thermostatic cord end that won't close and pass power until 0F or -18C. If where you live isn't that cold frequently... or at all... don't bother. You can put a normal cord on and have it work whenever but the truck can toss codes based on it thinking the coolant temp sensor is failing by comparing it to ambient air temp. Your choice.

SMiller · November 6, 2017

Not a fan of the factory block heater as it only works when it is super cold.

I prefer the inline heater that goes in the lower radiator hose.

i82much · November 6, 2017

Hmm, doesn't sound like my options are all that great. Basically, what I want to do is run one of those mechanical 24-hour timers, set it to go off at 6 AM every day. That way, I can come home, plug my truck in at night, and it will start warming up in the morning before work. Just trying to get out of the driveway faster is all.

revrnd · November 7, 2017

7 hours ago, i82much said:

Hmm, doesn't sound like my options are all that great. Basically, what I want to do is run one of those mechanical 24-hour timers, set it to go off at 6 AM every day. That way, I can come home, plug my truck in at night, and it will start warming up in the morning before work. Just trying to get out of the driveway faster is all.

Thats the same setup that I used when I was working & on the dayshift.

i82much · November 7, 2017

is there an older OEM version that lacks the thermostatic feature?

SierraHD17 · November 7, 2017

31 minutes ago, i82much said:

is there an older OEM version that lacks the thermostatic feature?

Just buy one for an 04 or older... they don`t have the thermostatic end. If you CEL comes on and you can`t command start it you will know why lol. Or buy a replacement cord from your favorite parts store.... won`t have the thermostat end on it either..... or cut it and put your own end on.

i82much · November 7, 2017

7 minutes ago, SierraHD17 said:

Just buy one for an 04 or older... they don`t have the thermostatic end. If you CEL comes on and you can`t command start it you will know why lol. Or buy a replacement cord from your favorite parts store.... won`t have the thermostat end on it either..... or cut it and put your own end on.

thanks. this, of course, makes me wonder why the 04 and earlier trucks didn't throw codes?

SierraHD17 · November 7, 2017

They did as far as I know being 03 and 04 anyway, hence the reason the end went to a thermostat. 99 to 02 is a totally different pcm and os. It's a fix for more or less a screw up in gm's software where you get a temp differential code. No the block heater is in no way tied to the pcm so any style you install can result in the same thing. Depending how warm the heater gets the engine it may cause the problem at lower temps too. Is what it is.

SMiller · November 7, 2017

I would not knock out a freeze plug to install a block heater, a inline heater is much safer to install and will do a better job of circulating coolant.

You simply cut the lower radiator hose right in the middle, slip the heater in the hose, lock it down with the provided hose clamps, run the cord where you want it, refill with coolant and done.

SierraHD17 · November 7, 2017

11 minutes ago, SMiller said:

I would not knock out a freeze plug to install a block heater, a inline heater is much safer to install and will do a better job of circulating coolant.

You simply cut the lower radiator hose right in the middle, slip the heater in the hose, lock it down with the provided hose clamps, run the cord where you want it, refill with coolant and done.

You don't"knock out" frost plugs on an LS block.... if you get under your truck and look at yours you will find you have none. You do however have a big threaded plug right above the oil filter that the cooler lines kind of jog around. It's a hex key to take it out... and then you thread in the element. No hose hackery required. The circ heaters are great but this style works really well down to -40 or so... so unless you plan on temps colder than that it's not really required.

The factory heater is a lot simpler and "safer" install than chopping up hoses and using screw style hose clamps.

magic marouke · November 7, 2017

so just plugging it in wont activate it ? have to have temp drop to freezing first ? . also once on can you hear it like I can on my 88 chevy diesel ?

SierraHD17 · November 7, 2017

18 minutes ago, magic marouke said:

so just plugging it in wont activate it ? have to have temp drop to freezing first ? . also once on can you hear it like I can on my 88 chevy diesel ?

It's a simple thermostatic switch in the plug.. once it gets cold enough the switch closes and the heating element gets power. Yes it makes noises like any old block heater when it's working.

magic marouke · November 8, 2017

18 hours ago, SierraHD17 said:

It's a simple thermostatic switch in the plug.. once it gets cold enough the switch closes and the heating element gets power. Yes it makes noises like any old block heater when it's working.

oh ok thanks . truck stays outdoors all winter so got the heater option in case we get another 3 week ice storm here again .

Colossus · November 8, 2017

I can't speak to the 6.0, only the Duramax, but it does make a big difference when I plug it in. The Diesel has "smart" glow plug technology, which means it starts up nicely at temps well below 0 without being plugged in, however- it still needs a good 3-4 min warm up time at those temps. When I plug in the heater, which I believe is more of a coolant heater vs an actual block heater- there is definitely a a huge improvement in that the start up is easier- not labored, and the glow plugs barely light up- maybe 1 second at the most vs 2-3 seconds for not being plugged in. The engine idles smoothly and doesn't go into a elevated RPM (by about 300 RPM) warm up for a few minutes. Often the coolant is warm enough that i can switch on defrost on the windshield and it is already going to work.