Any plumbers in the house? Water Heater drain line.

[Epsilon Plus]

I just installed a new water heater and I'm trying to bring it up to code/proper function (installed expansion tank...etc). The last one had the over pressure drain line coming out and over into a drain in the wall. See attached photo, the neon green line represents what it kinda looked like. This goes in the wall and has an exterior drain outside a few inches above the ground. When I bought the house the inspector had listed in the report: "Temperature & Pressure relief valve piping - is unsafely terminated- this is a safety hazard. We recommend this drain line be extended to an approved location (usually outside and 6" or less from ground) Corrosion of piping/valve(s)". I'm not sure what is unsafe about it. I tested the valve on the old water heater and it properly spits out water at that outside port 6'' or less from the ground.

 

The reason I'm asking is because I'm juggling whether to connect the new heater pressure valve to a pipe terminated in the same spot but if it's a code violation or some improper plumbing thing I'll go a different route. The only thing I can think of is that most water heaters pictured online have a drain pipe straight down from the pressure valve. I did buy a drain pan for the heater to sit in and I do have to plumb a drain pipe for it in case the heater leaks other than the pressure drain and wets stuff (like the previous one did). So, I can do the straight down pipe into the pan and then out but I figure if I already have a drain setup in the wall to the outside I might as well use it so hot over pressure water doesn't go spraying around the garage bouncing off an overflow pan.

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks for your comments.

[1SLOW1500]

I think there are too many 90 bends in it. Hard to say without know your local codes.

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[1SLOW1500]

I think there are too many 90 bends in it. Hard to say without know your local codes.

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My local code says NO 90s I would see if PEX is a option.

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[txab]

You might just run you a new line out the wall completely abandoning the old line. Use Copper, PEX or CPVC. The corrosion and metal line (Galvanized?) may be the main issue. I know, locally, old metal drain lines are frowned upon due to possible plugging by corrosion and or general failure. The outside termination probably should extend a bit closer to the ground to prevent hot water spraying on someone.  Is this WH in a garage?

 

Just call your local city code dept and they will be happy to provide you the code info you need

[TheGangler]

^ but be sure not to draw code enforcement attention... Once they have you in their sights, they'll tag you on all sorts of obscure unrelated shit.

That said, definitely contact them for the proper code, as it will provide you with the complete answer that we cannot.


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[bndawgs]

Here's my setup on my new tank.  I didn't have a drip pan before, so I had to tie into the washing machine overflow pipe. You can see the pressure relief pipe coming down and that runs into the sump pump.  

[bndawgs]

Also, I'm not sure I like the way that gas line is all snaked around.  Seems awkward to me. 

[Epsilon Plus]

Thanks for the replies. I'll try to find the local code. I'll just make a new PVC outlet from the pan and have the pressure drop into the pan. All of the houses around here are done like the old setup and the area was built in 2006. I lived 5 mins from here in a house built in 2014 and it had an expansion tank, drain pan, and PVC drain line but I don't recall how the pressure relief was done.

[Epsilon Plus]

Just for kicks, here is a pic of a house built in 2016 in the same zip code 5 mins down the road. It has a separate copper drain for the pan but the relief is plumbed like mine was.

[diyer2]

I would terminate the pressure valve line outside. 

The pan drain to a floor drain or outside.

In my experience working as a plumbers apprentice the most common hot water heater failure was the bottom rusting out.