Hello, I looked 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 that I was interested in purchasing with the 5.3L V8 has 174,000 miles. Truck runs rough at idle, rpms are fluctuating. Check engine light is on with codes P0300 and P0301. Can’t troubleshoot the problem. Coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires, new O2 sensors, new catalytic converters. Guy says that rockers all move so it isn’t Active Fuel Management lifters and he says 150 psi of compression across all 8 cylinders. Truck was at dealership, dealership says problem with cylinder numbers 1 and 8 the P0301 explains problem with cylinder 1 but why isn’t code P0308 being thrown? What else could be the problem?
Well, I have a bit of a issue with water leaks in a new 1500 ltz z71. The history is, we keep it garaged most of the time so water leaks had not been an issue.. recently we had to do some remodel at the house and used the garage to store/cut wood. We've left the vehicle outside for several months. I kept noticing that we would get an occasional moisture in the windows as the temperature changed plus a slight odor of musk smell. Well, on a last year, we got a chip in the windshield that had to be replaced. Then after several torrential rains over several months, I noticed one day that my drivers side carpet was soaked. the water went all the way up the firewall. in the padding under the carpet. Naturally we suspected the windshield and had the company that warranty it come back and fix. after drying the carpet out with a small fan over several days. During the next rain (torrential) it was wet again. Again we called the windshield company and they removed / reinstalled the windshield again (3rd time) . This time while the windshield tech had the windshield removed I looked at what possibly could leak and where it would go down the inside firewall. There was only one way and it had to be due to lack of enough windshield adhesive in the upper left corner where the water could drip into the A pillar and down to behind the speaker then into the cab. While the windshield was out, I removed the A pillar trim so I can verify the windshield and also verify that the upper sat antenna wasn't leaking. Again I dried the carpet and parked the truck going down hill nose down. I took the water hose and flooded the areas we thought was leaking.... no water leaks. ok good. Just to double check that I didn't have another issue, I then proceeded to run water over the driver door seal area.. (I had removed the drivers sill molding and placed paper towels around the door seal bottom so I could see if it leaked) front door was not leaking. I then decided to "just for grins" check the rear. I took off the sill molding and noticed the carpet and the padding was wet back there.. I dried up the puddles of water, then tested the back door seal using same method. no leak.
ok then I thought where in the heck would this water be coming from. After googling and watching a video of the rear body vent leaks, I decided to test the rear body vent on drivers side... by just letting water drip from the rear window down on the vent, and after a few minutes water started poring into the rear. Ah ha.. So this is where it is leaking... and it makes sense now, I have a bed cover and every time it rains water goes forward onto the cab and then drips onto the vent, the water penetrates runs under the carpet all the way to the drivers side if the truck is parked nose down. the carpet is wicking up the water that is why it is wet all the way up the firewall.
Anyone owning a Chevrolet pickup needs to verify the rear carpet is not getting wet. Faulty or leaking vents could allow exhaust or other gases to penetrate into the vehicle as well as water. It would be so simple to put some sort of "outer water shield" over the outside of those flaps so water could not hit the flaps. This would direct the water downward and still allow the cab to breathe.. on installation seal the unit with silicone around the perimeter where it meets the cab metal so there would be a good seal on the unit. geez..
This needs to be a recall.. this is a faulty design and needs to be redesigned. I am taking this to the stealer next week as the vehicle is under warranty for 500 more miles.
I know a lot of people are running black rims on white trucks and blacked out black trucks and color matching etc. I decided to go old school chrome (lux) look. I made this happen on the front end by swapping out my black front bumper skid shield with the denali chrome one. I also as some of you may know, whited out my badges with reflective vinyle (see profile pic) and decided on chrome rims, exception, these rims are powder coated and flashed for the exact same look as chrome except they clean up just like paint. soap and water and wax.
So this may not be for all but it takes me back a bit while still be modern.
By the way, to remove this and replace. off comes the under grill molding, the radiator shroud, the front grill, the front bumper, remove both bumper backing plates remove and replace skid plate. i followed these instructions...
I’ve been having issues starting my 2007 Silverado 1500 and was hoping someone could give me an idea what the problem is.
- Engine struggles to turn over for 3-5 seconds before finally turning over.
- If I turn the key to the “On” position before starting it, wait 3-5 seconds THEN start the truck it turns over immediately.
- I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I set the key to the “On” position.
- Battery was replaced but the issue remains.
- Truck will start right away if it’s been sitting for less than an hour.
- Temperature shouldn’t be an issue (30-40 degrees in the morning).
- Here’s the kicker: If I use the remote start it turns over no problem.
Any help/input would be appreciated. Thank you.
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