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C/K to Silverado Rear Axle Swap


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#1 number9

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 01:55 PM

Hey guys, newbie here. I have a 99 K1500 Z-71. I love the truck but the brakes SUCK and always have. I have gotten to the point that I have decided to do something about it and install rear discs and maybe beefier master cylinder and or booster.

I am thinking that a lower cost mod would be to swap the complete rear axle for one out of a Silverado that already has the disc brakes. Has anyone done this or know if it will work. I am sure the only possible problems would be the spring-pad width and / or the shock braket width.

Also, has anyone done any sort of aftermarket brake upgrades they can recommend.

Thanks.

#2 number9

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 08:40 AM

Aynone?

#3 cyclejerk

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 04:43 PM

I have a 90 z71 1500. I baught a new rear end/axel complete from a 2500 series. The brakes are still drum but much larger than the 1500 seriesn and stop real good. I also made sure that the gears were the samein the rear before hand :thumbs: :jester: :thumbs: :thumbs: . I also replaced the leaf springs and now can haul larger loads.
Good luck in whatever you do
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#4 PSWired

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 06:19 PM

Rather than trying disc brakes, where you will encounter problems with the ABS, you might look into upgraded brake components for what you have now. Praise Dyno brakes makes a good setup for our trucks, they have pads with a higher coefficient of friction and cyro-treated slotted rotors. Do this conversion along with stainless steel braided lines to firm up the pedal feel and a fluid flush and you should be set. www.praisedynobrake.com look at stage II kit

#5 willfxp

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Posted 26 September 2003 - 01:49 AM

I thought I read that 90% of the stopping power is in the front two wheels. Not entirely sure if that was because I was reading up on cars/Front WD. So changing the back system won't do too much.

I agree with PSWired, mainly because it's cheaper! :thumbs:
My Dream: '01 Silverado Extended Cab Z71

#6 99-2door

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Posted 26 September 2003 - 06:03 AM

I thought I read that 90% of the stopping power is in the front two wheels. Not entirely sure if that was because I was reading up on cars/Front WD. So changing the back system won't do too much.

I agree with PSWired, mainly because it's cheaper! :thumbs:

Its because when you are decelerating the weight is shifted toward the front of the vehicle.
The shocks are mounted at a different angle on the NBS trucks, so you would encounter a problem there too. I agree, not really feasible to do the swap when so much could be done with a lot less time and grief.
I want to upgrade the brakes on my Tahoe a bit, so I am thinking:
1. Stainless lines
2. different pads
3. slotted/ drilled rotors
4. Hydro-boost set-up. I think hydratech sells a kit to do this, or you can make your own with a set-up from a 96-00 2500HD or 3500

95 Chevy K3500 SRW converted to 5.7L Vortec 4L80e, 4.10 w/G80
2003 Tahoe w/ Silverado front clip
2001 GMC C3, 6.0L AWD, lowered 3/5, Volant intake, pulleys, tuned with HPtuners by me.

#7 number9

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Posted 26 September 2003 - 01:32 PM

I'd like to hear more about this Hyro-Boost you mentioned. I took measurements from my neighbor's 03 GMC Sierra and it looks as if the spring pads and shock brackets would have to move in toward the carrier about 1.5" for it to work. I am also going to look into just replacing my drums with the discs on the NBS trucks - that shouldn't be that big a deal at all as long as no changes were made to the wheel flange on the end of the axle housing tube.

The rear brakes are the stock shoes that came on the truck and they still look fairly good - on the front I have replaced the pads 4 times and the rotors 1 time. The brakes have very poor feel and alot of pedal travel. I have recently flushed the fliud and bleed the brakes with no improvement.

#8 silverado3500

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Posted 27 September 2003 - 01:57 AM

Definately consider converting to a hydroboost unit, they are great. I converted my 02 1500 to hydroboost, and the performance is great!
Current Vehicles:
2002 K3500 (4x4) Regular cab LB7 Duramax/6spd
2000 C3500 Crew Cab LWB dually LS 454/4l80E 4.56 gears
2000 Ford F-450 7.3/6spd 4x4 Crew cab
1996 C1500 reg cab 4.3/4L60E 3.73 gears

#9 99-2door

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Posted 27 September 2003 - 02:01 AM

Here is a link to the hydratech site:
Hydratech 97-99 Kit page

Also if you are interested in rear disc brakes there are kits available from Baer, AIM, Dynatrac and Traders and other companies to convert without having to change the axle out. The axle swap you are talking about would be a huge undertaking and potential for error is great. I would use one of these disc conversion kits. The key to setting up a rear disc system is proper re-proportioning. Baer also makes a front disc upgrade and so do others. If you can't tell I am trying to dissuade you from attempting to put the NBS axle under your truck. I think you could eventually make it work, but you are looking at a HUGE time investment for minimal gain.

BTW :thumbs: to see a 99 classic on here. Not too many of those floating around

95 Chevy K3500 SRW converted to 5.7L Vortec 4L80e, 4.10 w/G80
2003 Tahoe w/ Silverado front clip
2001 GMC C3, 6.0L AWD, lowered 3/5, Volant intake, pulleys, tuned with HPtuners by me.

#10 number9

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Posted 27 September 2003 - 01:16 PM

So is the performance increase of the Hydoboost kit really worth the $600 they charge for the kit? How does this effect brake wear/life? I would expect the pads/shoes would need replacing more often since the added force of the hyraulic boost would cause the brakes to work harder?

#11 99-2door

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Posted 27 September 2003 - 03:32 PM

So is the performance increase of the Hydoboost kit really worth the $600 they charge for the kit? How does this effect brake wear/life? I would expect the pads/shoes would need replacing more often since the added force of the hyraulic boost would cause the brakes to work harder?

On the corvette forum everybody who has put the kit in their 68-82s really likes it and highly recommends hydratech. If the kit is a bit too pricey (that IS a lot of money) for you, you can get a set-up from a 96-00 3500. That is what I plan to do when I get around to the mod. You will be able to get a used set-up significantly cheaper. Also the hydratech kit installs a t-line into the existing PS set-up. The factory set-up has a different pump, which IMO is a better set-up. My family currently has 2 factory hydroboost trucks. Neither of them seems to wear pads any quicker than the 1/2tons. The 1-tons do have bigger brakes though, so I can't say for sure. I would think that less pressure applied and longer stopping/padslipping distances would create more heat and more wear than a heavier force over less time.
If you have never driven a truck with the hydro set-up, go find a buddy with one and take it for a run. You will be impressed and ready to kick that vacuum can to the curb.

95 Chevy K3500 SRW converted to 5.7L Vortec 4L80e, 4.10 w/G80
2003 Tahoe w/ Silverado front clip
2001 GMC C3, 6.0L AWD, lowered 3/5, Volant intake, pulleys, tuned with HPtuners by me.