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Daytime Running Lights Out


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Guest chevydeerhunter

I switched mine to amber when I first bought my truck so that I could be a little different. Then everyone started using amber then colors to match the paint. I went back to stock white and I look different than everyone else! Go figure.

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I switched mine to amber when I first bought my truck so that I could be a little different.  Then everyone started using amber then colors to match the paint.  I went back to stock white and I look different than everyone else!  Go figure.

 

 

 

 

i feel ya.

 

im still with the amber though

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Burnt out DRLs are common ....................

 

NOTHING gets officer friendlys quick attention and a ticket at the wrong time !

 

My trucks DRLs I just pulled the bulbs..................

My Caddy I used info found at http://www.lightsout.org to shut them off!

 

I LIKE stealth mode driving and using my headlights when

conditionswarrant them......................

 

Please....NO "DRLs make your vehicle more visible/safe/etc."

flame posts ! I ride a motorcycle EVERYDAY with lights on and

the IDIOTS in cages still can't see ya and run you down if your

not VERY careful!

...........geo

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Sorry about my advice in an earlier post to use LEDs because I figured they'd last longer.

 

In fact, I've learned that they rarely last very long at all. For some reason "the output on the DRL circuit spikes to very high levels. Please understand this is not a problem with our bulbs, but a design defect from GM. Standard incandescent bulbs don't even last their normal lifespan."

 

I guess we're just doomed to short bulb life until they can develop a more hardy LED bulb.

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The above was a direct quote from Jake York at Velocity LEDs in response to some questions I asked about GM truck DRLs.

 

If your alternator is working right, you should get 15.4 to 15.6 volts briefly after a hard start or if the battery has been rundown a little (like listening to the sound system or using lights) before the most recent start. Within a minute, the voltage should settle in between 14.2 to 14.7 volts, dependent on ambient temperatures. After several minutes should settle in about 13.5 to 13.8 volts.

 

He didn't specify whether he meant voltage or current spikes. In any case, apparently the present LEDs are not hardy enough to tolerate these higher voltages.

 

For incandescents, Sylvania is now recommending 4114K or 4114LL bulbs which are designed to operate at 14.2 volts rather than the 3157K or 3157LL which are designed for 12.8 volts.

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If your alternator is working right, you should get 15.4 to 15.6 volts briefly after a hard start or if the battery has been rundown a little (like listening to the sound system or using lights) before the most recent start.  Within a minute, the voltage should settle in between 14.2 to 14.7 volts, dependent on ambient temperatures.  After several minutes should settle in about 13.5 to 13.8 volts.

 

He didn't specify whether he meant voltage or current spikes.  In any case, apparently the present LEDs are not hardy enough to tolerate these higher voltages.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

That's a higher spike than I thought, but even then, an LED designed to take 50mA with a voltage of 12V would only see 66.6mA with a 16V spike.

It sounds like his LEDs must be running at very close to max possible current, and may possibly even be overdriven.

 

Maybe Velocity LEDs would fail when used as DRLs, but I really don't think that's true of all LEDs.

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I see more on the road with one out than I see with both lit! Agree on the comment about unnecessarily attracting MR Policeman.

 

I replaced both of mine at 10K with 3157NALL (amber long life) and have yet to replace them again and I'm up to 148K. The film on the bulb is starting to peel so I may just replace them with the same.

 

I agree with the comment made about them being so cheap and easy to replace, just replace them and don't give them a reason to pull you over.

 

Just wish I could get the same life out of my Silverstars!!!!!

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