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I replaced them with Sylvania 4114LL ambers

thats what i used. installed them 7 yrs. ago with a little dielectric grease. 7 yrs. 53,000 mi. and still working.. :uhoh:

 

 

Thanks for all the info, it eliminates time and effort. I went with Syl 4114LL and a little dielectric grease. I am up and running.

For general info I found on a another site serching for bulbs that there is a new one at this site. The bulb has a full glass bulb to disperse heat.

 

http://store.candlepower.com/4114k.html

 

Also I found that on 2008 models there going with a new bulb 3157KX to disperse heat and research found it also is the recommended replacement in the manual.

 

This is untested info and should be treated as such.

 

Thanks again to all as I can now move forward.

 

PS: I got positive results at the RUST STORE website with the chassis rust and oil cooler rust. Kills it and coats it. Several choices to choose from and good support and recommendations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I went to 4157 krypton bulbs....... Its been probably 5 years since I changed them last........ I was keeping a 10 pack of 3157's in the glove box, prior..... I can not stand to have a bulb not functioning properly...

 

Jbo

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  • 1 year later...

For all the folks that were able to get the bulbs out of the assembly, how in the hell did you do it....

 

Does the inner housing come out? how do you release all four prongs holding the bulb in place short of breaking the existing bulb and breaking the plastic base of the existing bulb?

 

There looks to be some tabs on the outer housing that hold the inner plastic housing that is gripping the bulb in place. Any help would be grand!

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  • 2 months later...

For all the folks that were able to get the bulbs out of the assembly, how in the hell did you do it....

 

Does the inner housing come out? how do you release all four prongs holding the bulb in place short of breaking the existing bulb and breaking the plastic base of the existing bulb?

 

There looks to be some tabs on the outer housing that hold the inner plastic housing that is gripping the bulb in place. Any help would be grand!

 

 

All you have to do is press that tab and rotate it ccw (if looking from the rear of the connector) and this should release the connector from the housing.

 

One thing to be mindful of after pulling out the old bulb, is to take a good look at the inside of the connector. If it is brown/black in color and shows signs of excess heat, you need to make sure to clean up all carbon and oxidation buildup on the contacts prior to new bulb install or you will have to go back in to do the work again sooner than you'd like. Trust me, I've learned this the hard way and replaced bulbs more times than I should have over the last couple of years until I finally "paid attention to detail" and corrected the real issue. Bad connection. From my experience, these bulbs will continue to burnout prematurely until you ensure that you are getting an optimum connection, as with all electronics.

 

Hope this helps.

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