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alvocado

Front brake caliper Torx bolt on 02 Yukon

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Does anyone know the Torx bolt size for front brake caliper bolts on a 2002 Yukon Denali? I have up to T50 and it was too small.

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Does anyone know the Torx bolt size for front brake caliper bolts on a 2002 Yukon Denali?  I have up to T50 and it was too small.

 

 

 

 

T55. My set only went up to 50 also. I found one at Sears!

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D**N! I've been to Sears 3 times this weekend. Looks like I'm heading back for a T55. Seems like useful information for the Haynes manual so we have the right tools on hand before pulling the wheels off. Thanks for the reply.

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You may want to get yourself 2 or 3 of them. I went through 3 sockets doing my front brakes on my 99' Silverado.

One trick I did learn was put the socket in the bolt and then hit the socket 2 or 3 times to loosen the threads on the bolts...

They were tight, tight, tight....

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A cheater bar for working with a socket will do wonders. Purchased one a few years back at AutoZone and also the torx. Didn't have to beat on anything. I did make sure that the torx socket was in the torx hole on the bolt as perfectly as I could get in.

 

The cheater bar is a "GreatNeck BB18", 18" long. Definitely is a "best friend" in the tool box. Comes with a half-inch shaft. It means business. And typically, it isn't too long when you are in tight quarters. Works great with those sockets that will have a lot of stress put on them, such as the 55mm torx.

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Good tip to pick up the cheater bar. My caliper bracket mounting bolts on the rear were so tight that I had to improvise and use the handle of my floor jack as a cheater bar. It splits in half by disconnecting a screw and was the perfect length for getting extra leverage on the socket ratchet.

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I haven't worked on the brakes of these trucks yet. After seeing all the posts on this Torx bolt, I am worried about the day I have to work on it. :chevy: But at least thanks to this forum, I am better educated about it. :thumbs:

 

This is the bolt you are referring to, right? (on the right side of the photo)

618555_84_full.jpg

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...This is the bolt you are referring to, right?

 

 

Yep that is the bolt. Notice that the torx hole for the bolt is rather shallow, hence, the need to make sure the torx socket shaft is snug and perfectly in the hole.

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you really dont have to loosen those torx bolts guys. Just take the 18mm caliper brackets bolts off, once the bracket is off the rotor the bracket will slide right off the caliper.

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you really dont have to loosen those torx bolts guys

 

Thats what I was thinking. I didnt need to loosen any torx bolts on my truck or my impala when I did the brakes. Maybe I did it the hard way but it seemed pretty darn simple ???

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I'm replacing all of the rotors so I'll have to remove the brake caliper mounting brackets anyway. It seems like removing the 18mm mounting bracket bolts would be the simpler option so I can leave the Torx bolts alone.

 

Have any of you experienced your rear disc brakes wearing out before your front? My rear pads were completely worn, the drivers inside pad down to the backing plate, yet I still have about 1/4 inch of pad on the fronts with 55k miles. I planned to replace them after seeing how the original rear pads nearly crumbled when I removed them. I always expect the fronts to wear faster so this was a big surprise.

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Have any of you experienced your rear disc brakes wearing out before your front?

 

thats really common on the 99-04 trucks. Also beware that there is a good chance your park shoes shifted and destroyed themselves and the rear rotors. :chevy:

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you really dont have to loosen those torx bolts guys. Just take the 18mm caliper brackets bolts off, once the bracket is off the rotor the bracket will slide right off the caliper.

 

 

 

 

Yeah, what he said. I've done my brakes twice now and have yet to remove the torx and that includes replacing the rotors and ebrake in back. In fact, I replaced the rear backing plates and axle seals and even then I didn't need to remove the torx. I'd rather remove an 18mm hex over a torx any day.

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My parking brake shoes are in fact toast; I can hear one rubbing on the rotor and I could move them by hand when I pulled the rotors off. I bought shoe kits last week and plan to switch them out with the new rotors this weekend. I have a thread open on the GM-Tech forum re: the shoe replacements. Did you guys run into anything tricky when replacing yours?

 

Regarding the backing plate, is this the shield that sits behind the rotor? If so, mine is a rusty and crumbling mess but I wasn't planning to replace it. How critical is it?

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My parking brake shoes are in fact toast; I can hear one rubbing on the rotor and I could move them by hand when I pulled the rotors off.  I bought shoe kits last week and plan to switch them out with the new rotors this weekend.  I have a thread open on the GM-Tech forum re: the shoe replacements.  Did you guys run into anything tricky when replacing yours?

 

Regarding the backing plate, is this the shield that sits behind the rotor?  If so, mine is a rusty and crumbling mess but I wasn't planning to replace it.  How critical is it?

 

 

 

 

Nothing tricky replacing the rears. Just make sure you have an updated clip for the shoe. Also, I adjusted mine snug to start with a little resistance with ebrake off.

 

Regarding the splash shield...worst cheapest design. Cheap metal disintegrates. As it rusts, it will expand to contact the rotor/drum. I bent mine to correct but it came back. I finally replaced them. They do not appear to perform any function other than keeping some of the crap from getting to the rotor. You must pull axles to replace them so it is a minor PITA. Bottom line...if your spalsh guards are not grinding, ignore them IMO.

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