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djbrkb

oem subwoofer specs for 01 yukon? (not-bose)

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looking for the oem subwoofer size (diameter), depth & ohm rating. i have noticed a dramatic improvement in replacing all the speakers using stock power, i now realize how terrible the stock sub sounds. looking to replace the oem with a quality woofer and use the stock enclosure and power to complete my plan. anyone done this? would first like to know the specs of the woofer before i take apart the cargo area. thanks.

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i think its a 10 inch, but i never did measure yesterday when i had it apart. its like a 4 ohm speaker, maybe an 8. power handing is likely less then 50 watts. i'd pick up a nice jl audio sub maybe a w0 or w3 and i think you will notice a difference. the w0's can basically go in any box and sound good.

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thanks for the reply - after a few days i ripped the cargo area apart to see for myself.

for anyone that cares -

it is 8" diameter, 2 ohm, and 3" deep. like the stock speakers in our trucks it looks like it might have cost a whole 5 cents to make. after measuring the box it's mounted in i calculated a volume of .340 cubic feet. most sub manufacturers recommend .5 cubic feet. does anyone think this will matter much? also, i have found a few 8" woofers out there that are 2 ohm rated - but what if i went with 4 ohm? also, what is the diff between one or two voice coil? which should i get?

 

any help would be great.

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thanks for the reply - after a few days i ripped the cargo area apart to see for myself.

for anyone that cares -

it is 8" diameter, 2 ohm, and 3" deep. like the stock speakers in our trucks it looks like it might have cost a whole 5 cents to make. after measuring the box it's mounted in i calculated a volume of .340 cubic feet. most sub manufacturers recommend .5 cubic feet. does anyone think this will matter much? also, i have found a few 8" woofers out there that are 2 ohm rated - but what if i went with 4 ohm? also, what is the diff between one or two voice coil? which should i get?

 

any help would be great.

 

 

 

 

 

Stick with a single coil. Try Crutchfield for your info, they have mounting depths and enclosure specs for you. www.crutchfield.com Look for subs under car audio, and start comparing. Dual voice coils are if you want to run a 2 channel amp, and run both channels without bridging the amp. More Thump for less money. Call them if in doubt.

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thanks for the reply - after a few days i ripped the cargo area apart to see for myself.

for anyone that cares -

it is 8" diameter, 2 ohm, and 3" deep. like the stock speakers in our trucks it looks like it might have cost a whole 5 cents to make. after measuring the box it's mounted in i calculated a volume of .340 cubic feet. most sub manufacturers recommend .5 cubic feet. does anyone think this will matter much? also, i have found a few 8" woofers out there that are 2 ohm rated - but what if i went with 4 ohm? also, what is the diff between one or two voice coil? which should i get?

 

any help would be great.

 

 

 

Don't stick with a single voice coil. You don't have to be in a secret club to use dual-voice-coil subwoofers. And in your case, the dual voice coil woofer is probably exactly what you need!

 

Your goal should be to put another 2-ohm speaker in there, if the amplifier can handle it. The only way to use a fairly common aftermarket subwoofer and run at 2 ohms, is to get a dual voice coil woofer, with each coil rated at 4 ohms, and wire them in parallel. When you wire them in parallel, you get 2 ohms. That way, you'll get the most "power" out of your amp.

 

Using a single voice coil 4-ohm woofer will get you exactly half the audio power that you had when you were using a 2-ohm speaker. The amplifier will run cooler, and that's about the only thing anybody could possibly consider to be an advantage of moving from 2-ohm to 4-ohm. But your woofer will only produce 1/2 of the sound energy compared to the factory woofer... Is that really what you want?

 

If it was my decision, I'd get a W0 or W3 like one of the previous posters suggested. Might want to drop by a sound shop with your ride's subwoofer still disassembled, so you can make sure whatever you buy *sounds good* and *fits*!

 

Take it from me, making a mistake here by "picking" a woofer off the internet could end up being much more expensive than just paying $20 for installation, and maybe $40 extra (compared to internet pricing) for the woofer itself. Negotiate with a few shops that you want to audition a few woofers in your ride, while it sits in their garage. See if any will permit that.

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hey, thanks men.

FYI:

now that i have changed all of the other speakers i have noticed good improvements in volume but mostly hear dramatic improvements in clarity and definition! as a result, i'm turning the music up more often and now i notice that when more bassy music is played at high volumes i can hear the woofer cone "bottoming out". it doesn't sound at all like distortion from the amp. so my thinking is a woofer with a stronger magnet and power rating will fit the bill. why wouldn't it since the oem woofer is such a cheap piece of crap, and, since i had such great results in changing just the speakers before?

 

yeah, mmmikkke. the factory woofer is rated at 2 ohms - and i plan to use the factory amp, so if my new woofer is to have a 2 ohm resistance i should be all set. i didn't know about the dual voice coil 4 ohm in parallel yields two ohms.....

 

one more question for mmmikkke. ashamed to ask but how do you wire a dual voice coil sub in parallel? is it just wiring the factory amp to one of the pos/neg pairs on the sub and then connecting the two pos and neg pairs on the sub to each other?

 

really appreciate the input guys, thanks!

I should take and share some pics of the three ways in my front doors - it sounds great and looks great too! i highly recommend it!

david

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one more question for mmmikkke. ashamed to ask but how do you wire a dual voice coil sub in parallel? is it just wiring the factory amp to one of the pos/neg pairs on the sub and then connecting the two pos and neg pairs on the sub to each other?

 

 

David,

 

I'd listen for the same things you mentioned...from what you said about the cheezy subwoofer bottoming out, but not hearing any subwoofer amp distortion, you are probably right about the subwoofer being the weak link.

 

You're exactly right about the wiring. If you end up with a dual 4 ohm voice coil subwoofer, do it just like you said; that will put the voice coils in parallel, and the amplifier will see 2 ohms.

 

Hope this helps.

 

mike

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dj, I wouldn't mind changing mine out. What 8" sub did you go with ? How much trouble was it to get to ? Any different wiring than the the factory sub ?

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i haven't picked one yet.. i am down to a few based on the following: either a single voice coil @ 2 ohms or dual voice coil at 4 ohms each. no more than 4 inches deep, and as high of an efficiency rating as i can find.

 

someone mentioned the jl audio sub earlier but i found out it is too deep (4.5") for our stock box (about 4.0"). other ones that are too deep are:mb quart rwe204, kicker cvr8 and mtx thunder 4508-44. so i am left with: memphis 15-mc84d, cerwin vega hed-8dvc, audiobahn aw831t or q.

 

these appear to fit but might require some minor mods to mount into the box - i dunno yet. if someone beats me to it let me know what you picked and the ease of fit.

 

also, i tried to post pics but for some reason the site won't let me.

 

david

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check ebay for the older jlw6, they did make an 8, and it should be shallower then the w0. and i think with dual voice coils, though i am not positive. i have heard good things about memphis, mmats might also have something for you to look at aswell. and i believe jlaudio.com has some great tutorials where you can learn a ton.

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i finally bought a sub today. the memphis15-mc84d. i got it at a local shop and asked if i could check for fit while there. it fits right in! mounting screws don't align with the oem sub's but that's no big deal. memphis recommends .2 to .4 cubic ft volume for a sealed enclosure, which is perfect since our sub box is .34 cubic ft. they said i could return it if i'm not happy with the sound. i will hook it up this weekend sometime and let you know how it sounds.

one thing i learned about the jl subs is that to get the right resistance (2 ohm) i needed their dual coil version which made them too deep for the oem box - so i couldn't go that route.

thanks for the help thus far.

david

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Yeah dj please do. Did you stay with the factory amp, wiring ? What's the deal to get to the sub ? How much for the Memphis ? Where ?

 

Thanks

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Yeah dj please do. Did you stay with the factory amp, wiring ? What's the deal to get to the sub ? How much for the Memphis ? Where ?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

yes, i stayed with the factory wiring. the sub is really easy to get to. just pull off the d pillar cover, unscrew the black cargo net knob on the quarter panel cover, unscrew the one bolt that is in the crevice where the factory rear cargo shade fits into, pull the panel out (everything from that point on is spring clipped on so pull firmly and carefully) - and the sub box is right there. the woofer cone is held in with 4 torx screws, unscrew them and the cone falls onto your lap. i just used the pos and neg factory wires and hooked them up to my new sub in parallel (to get 2 ohms).

 

now.., i like the new sub ($80 from a local shop in dearborn MI), it is much better than the stock woofer but i have to admit, it is not as drastic of an improvement as i had when i replaced the other speakers... now only on the very most bassy parts of a few songs, i faintly hear that "bottoming out" sound. again, way less than before but i was expecting it to go away entirely.... hmm. one thing i read is that the sub box should have a good portion of poly fill - ours has two pieces of that cheap carpet padding thrown in there... does anyone think that would help? maybe i'll get a small mono amp and hook it up to the high level speaker leads... maybe i'll stay put for now and see.. any comments?

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Yeah dj please do. Did you stay with the factory amp, wiring ? What's the deal to get to the sub ? How much for the Memphis ? Where ?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

yes, i stayed with the factory wiring. the sub is really easy to get to. just pull off the d pillar cover, unscrew the black cargo net knob on the quarter panel cover, unscrew the one bolt that is in the crevice where the factory rear cargo shade fits into, pull the panel out (everything from that point on is spring clipped on so pull firmly and carefully) - and the sub box is right there. the woofer cone is held in with 4 torx screws, unscrew them and the cone falls onto your lap. i just used the pos and neg factory wires and hooked them up to my new sub in parallel (to get 2 ohms).

 

now.., i like the new sub ($80 from a local shop in dearborn MI), it is much better than the stock woofer but i have to admit, it is not as drastic of an improvement as i had when i replaced the other speakers... now only on the very most bassy parts of a few songs, i faintly hear that "bottoming out" sound. again, way less than before but i was expecting it to go away entirely.... hmm. one thing i read is that the sub box should have a good portion of poly fill - ours has two pieces of that cheap carpet padding thrown in there... does anyone think that would help? maybe i'll get a small mono amp and hook it up to the high level speaker leads... maybe i'll stay put for now and see.. any comments?

 

 

 

 

 

 

update: forget what i said above. after being in the car today during my commute, i have noticed that the "bottoming out" sound is completely gone! maybe the woofer needed breaking in - i dunno. I can now say that this was a dramatic improvement!! the memphis sub is a great choice for our trucks! I AM STOPPING HERE - NO MORE IMPROVEMENTS TO THE STEREO - IT SOUNDS GREAT!

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I've been following your thread. Congrats on a successful resolution.

 

Of the brands you had mentioned a few posts back, I had thought that if it were me, I'd go with the Memphis. Their website suggests that they're really into making good sound...

 

Sounds like you found a dual 4 ohm voice coil version, and wired it in parallel, giving your amplifier the 2 ohm subwoofer it was designed for.

 

How's the efficiency of that Memphis? Is it as loud as the factory unit?

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