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oem subwoofer specs for 01 yukon? (not-bose)


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#16 averagehonky

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Posted 23 November 2005 - 09:20 AM

dj, glad it turned out well. The factory sub is lame at best. As I have never done one explain exactly how to wire the Memphis with the factory wiring to have it in parallel. Sorry but I'm a rookie on this. If you guys hadn't mentioned the parallel, single voice, dual voice, etc., etc. I would have never known the difference. I've been thinking of doing this on mine for years but never saw a thread where the perfect size speaker, maker, model # would fit. Glad I ran into this one. Thanks.

I talked to an audio guy today and his thought was the new speaker with the factory amp may have problems. He suggested an upgraded, dedicated amp for the Memphis sub.


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Edited by averagehonky, 23 November 2005 - 11:58 AM.


#17 djbrkb

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Posted 23 November 2005 - 01:30 PM

dj, glad it turned out well. The factory sub is lame at best. As I have never done one explain exactly how to wire the Memphis with the factory wiring to have it in parallel. Sorry but I'm a rookie on this. If you guys hadn't mentioned the parallel, single voice, dual voice, etc., etc. I would have never known the difference. I've been thinking of doing this on mine for years but never saw a thread where the perfect size speaker, maker, model # would fit. Glad I ran into this one. Thanks.

I talked to an audio guy today and his thought was the new speaker with the factory amp may have problems. He suggested an upgraded, dedicated amp for the Memphis sub. 


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hey there, wow! surprised to hear that a stereo store wanted to sell an amp to you as well!! sorry, couldn't resist..
my mentality on this was simple: change the speakers first - if i wanted more/better power, i'd add an amp later. as i stated before, i am stopping here - i don't think an amp - and all the other stuff needed to keep all the other electronics in our truck working - are worth it. it sounds that much better!

firstly, i do NOT have the bose system in my truck! what i did will not apply to a bose system!

so, if you don't have a bose system i would do exactly what i did and buy the memphis 15-mc84d. (~$80). it has two sets of positive and negative terminals on the back (because it has two voice coils). hook the two positives together and the two negatives together on the memphis sub with speaker wire. then take the positive (red) and negative (black) wires that are currently hooked to your factory woofer cone and hook them up to one of the two terminal pairs on your new sub. that is it. the memphis sub has two coils rated at 4 ohms each. when hooked up as described above, the two 4 ohm loads in parallel yield 2 ohms. the factory sub amp in our truck needs to see a 2 ohm load or it will likely blow.
(thanks for the education on this mmmikkke)

#18 averagehonky

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Posted 23 November 2005 - 01:56 PM

I knew I'd get ribbed for that, haha. I've actually known this guy awhile. He knows it takes a crow bar to seperate me from my wallet. Just someone's opinion. He just said the Memphis might be too good of a sub for the crappy amp.

I do not have the Bose either. I think GM calls it the Premium system.


then take the positive (red) and negative (black) wires that are currently hooked to your factory woofer cone and hook them up to one of the two terminal pairs on your new sub.


Doesn't matter which ? Hook red to (+) & black to (-) to one of the terminals that you already have paralleled ?

Edited by averagehonky, 23 November 2005 - 02:14 PM.


#19 djbrkb

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Posted 23 November 2005 - 03:18 PM

I knew I'd get ribbed for that, haha.  I've actually known this guy awhile. He knows it takes a crow bar to seperate me from my wallet. Just someone's opinion. He just said the Memphis might be too good of a sub for the crappy amp.

I do not have the Bose either. I think GM calls it the Premium system.


then take the positive (red) and negative (black) wires that are currently hooked to your factory woofer cone and hook them up to one of the two terminal pairs on your new sub.


Doesn't matter which ? Hook red to (+) & black to (-) to one of the terminals that you already have paralleled ?

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nope - pick one of the two. they are commonized by hooking them up together, so it won't matter which one.

#20 sgiangregorio

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Posted 27 February 2006 - 09:03 PM

Well, based on this thread (bring an old thread back again), I just ordered the same Memphis sub for my 2002 Tahoe. I was wondering how to deal with the 2 ohm sub issue, and this thread was awesome. Thanks!

I just need to figure out what door speakers now. I'm doing the same too, which is leaving the stock HU and stock amp. I like good sound, but with 3 little kids, I'm not looking to make my hair fall out. Just better sound than the stock stuff.

What door speakers did you go with? Are you happy with them?
2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (his)
2003 GMC Envoy XL SLT (hers)

#21 duketter

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 08:37 PM

I was thinking of buying this sub (memphis) also. Any other reviews. For those that have it, do you still like it and is it that much better than the stock subwoofer?

Thanks!!!

#22 sgiangregorio

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 08:41 PM

I've had it installed about 2 weeks now. Much better. Now it's only an 8, so don't expect to rattle the glass or vibrate stuff off yuor dash. But it has a much better punch to it, and it fills in much better with the lows. And it can handle much more than the stock sub at higher listening volumes. It was a nice improvement for only $50.

When you do it though, be sure to remove the junk carpet GM puts in there and add a few good handfulls of polyfill. It helped.

As a comparison, find a CD you have with good bass. Listen to it before, change the sub, and then listen after. I think you'll see the difference. It did need to break in a bit though.
2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (his)
2003 GMC Envoy XL SLT (hers)

#23 sgiangregorio

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 08:42 PM

Oh, and for door speakers, I went with Polk Audio db650s all around. Right now, I only have the rears in. This was a HUGE difference than stock. Much crisper. I can't wait to get the fronts in this weekend. (I didn't go with components for the front cause I don't want to deal with amps).
2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (his)
2003 GMC Envoy XL SLT (hers)

#24 duketter

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 10:05 PM

Curious where you got the Memphis sub for $50. Also, was it just a direct replacement? No cutting or other modifications needed? Just swap out the old and in with the new. That simple?

Thanks! :sigh:

#25 duketter

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 10:15 PM

Curious where you got the Memphis sub for $50.  Also, was it just a direct replacement?  No cutting or other modifications needed?  Just swap out the old and in with the new.  That simple?

I was thinking of getting the Memphis sub or the Polk Audio MM Series MM2084DVC.  This one is about $90 and has a mounting depth of under 4 inches. 

Thanks! :sigh:

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#26 sgiangregorio

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 07:33 AM

Curious where you got the Memphis sub for $50.  Also, was it just a direct replacement?  No cutting or other modifications needed?  Just swap out the old and in with the new.  That simple?

Thanks! :sigh:

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eBay. $40 actually, $15 shipping. It was never opened when I got it, literally brand new. I just searched though, and there are none on there right now.

It is, for the most part, a direct fit. Once you remove the old one, you have to clip the connectors off the factory wiring (the Memphis has pressure clips). Also, on the Memphis, you need to remove the rubber ring on the sub or it won't fit. I found some rubber and made my own "gasket" for behind the sub, where it contacts that enclosure so it didn't rattle. I'm glad I did. Then, I removed the junk carpet in the box, added some polyfill and had my wife hold the sub in place. I then drilled new mounting holes (the factory ones don't line up). I screwed it down with the 4 factory screws. Careful to line them up well as they have a built in washer. If you drill to close to the edge, the washer will hit the lip on the sub. I then added more screws, so it was screwed down in 8 locations. Tight as anything with that rubber gasket I made too.

Oh, one more thing. The sub box is mounted with 2 bolts at the top, and then it clips in at the bottom. I found it rattling there a bit (at the clip), so I added a screw/washer over the clip. Rattling gone.

Here are some pics of it installed:

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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (his)
2003 GMC Envoy XL SLT (hers)

#27 sgiangregorio

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 10:24 AM

Here's some info on removing the panels, it may help:

You have to pull the trim on the rear sill, where the hatch latches. Then, pull the corresponding top one. They are just attached with spring clips. Then, pull the D pillar with the tweeter in it. Disconnect the tweeter. Then, pull the pillar where the back seat seat belt is (this panel interlocks with the sub panel, it must be pulled or you will break the sub panel clips near the rear seat). Then, remove the 7mm screw in the sub panel where the sunshade mounts. Then, unscrew the black cargo net bolt. I covered the bolt with a rag and used a pair of pliers. The rag helped to not chew up the bolt. Once you get all this off, the panel should pull out, again, it's just mounted with spring clips.
2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (his)
2003 GMC Envoy XL SLT (hers)

#28 duketter

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Posted 18 March 2006 - 12:15 PM

Does anyone actually know the rms rating on the stock amp that comes in the Tahoe? Just curious.

#29 djbrkb

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Posted 20 March 2006 - 09:14 AM

hey guys, glad to see my old post is still useful.

the memphis sub fit right in with no modifications other than i had to drill new mounting holes on the flange of the enclosure because they didn't quite line up.

yeah, as i mentioned earlier in the thread, my sub needed break-in as well. after a few days it really sounded great - much better than stock. (i will go back and put some poly fill in now after reading your success with this).

i was in the same boat as you guys - i just wanted to try new speakers and not mess with all the electronic adapter integration stuff that is needed when you change amps, headunits, etc...
i was thrilled when i noticed that by just changing the speakers i got a huge improvement in sound quality.

i put mb quart pce316 three-way component speakers in the front doors & a pillars. i bought these used on ebay since they cost over $700 new. i paid $225 for the set with crossovers. the 6.5in woofer replaced the factory woofer, the 4' midrange replaced the tweeter that is just above the woofer (this required some cutting on the door panel as well as a little of the metal door liner), and i mounted the tweeters in the a-pillars (the same spot that the newer yukons have them). i put mb quart rwe216's in the rear doors, and i put mb quart 3.5 inch coaxials in the d-pillars. i paid $75 for the 6.5"ers and $40 for the 3.5"ers (both on ebay of course). and, as i mentioned above, the memphis sub in the back..

it really came out great. the front doors look really cool with two cones under those big grills, and i even found some spray paint that was made to match the pewter/shale interior that most of us have in our trucks (i think they make the darker grey and tan color paint as well). i spray painted the tweeter housings with this paint before mounting them in the a-pillars - it looks like the truck came from the factory that way!

so for $425, and a little elbow grease, i think i made a dramatic improvement in my stereo. particularly in the mids. the vocals and instruments sound extermely clear and crisp now. it was well worth it.


Curious where you got the Memphis sub for $50.  Also, was it just a direct replacement?  No cutting or other modifications needed?  Just swap out the old and in with the new.  That simple?

I was thinking of getting the Memphis sub or the Polk Audio MM Series MM2084DVC.  This one is about $90 and has a mounting depth of under 4 inches. 

Thanks! :banghead:

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#30 sgiangregorio

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Posted 20 March 2006 - 09:21 AM

Thanks for the follow-up.

So you did go with components in the front huh? I decided against it, as I was concerned the stock radio wouldn't have enough power for them.

You think it does theough, they sound ok?
2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (his)
2003 GMC Envoy XL SLT (hers)