Removing glazing on brake rotors

[az'03Silverado]

I just wanted to know the best way to get glazing off of brake rotors. Mine are making one heck of a noise and I don't want to ruin them but I don't really think they need to be turned as that only makes them thinner. Any ideas? Thanks.

[pm26]

100 grit sandpaper works just fine. I lightly hand sanded rotors on my cars when installing new pads. Before that I cleaned them with acetone to degrease them.

[tlocus]

I think i used 100 or 120 grit sandpaper when I replace my pads in a circular motion around the rotor (both sides).

Then sprayed it off with brake cleaner.

No problems so far

 

t

[03blackburb]

If the rotors are even questionable you should have them turned. Glazing is caused by heat which in turn can cause hight/low spots and hard spots. To get maximum life and best performance from your brakes, if the rotors have any glazing or "hot" spots don't cheep out by not having them turned. Getting rotos turned usually runs around $5 each. Minor compared to the price of the pads and the labor involved. Yes it is not that much, but you could be doing other mods or out exploring instead of having to do another brake job.

[pm26]

It is not the question of paying something to have the rotors turned. On some vehicles, there is almost no extra metal on the rotors so you cannot turn them. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using sandpaper to remove light glaze. When you turn rotors, you make them thinner, and more susceptible to warpage.

[100R1]

I agree PM26 most rotors have minimal thickeness to starts with and with normal wear by the time you are ready to replace the brake pads under normal wear, if you turn the rotors there is no meat left. They warp so fast especally if my DW is driving the vehicle.

 

Not worth the pain & suffering to save a few bucks. I replace the rotors when doing a brake job. I have returned new rotors to place of purchase after getting home and putting a straight edge on them to check how ture they are.

 

I also use a scotch brite pad attached to my air powered cutoff tool > I use the fine grain pad and give a random finish, This helps seating the pads

[bowtie_pasta]

Emory cloth in a circular motion will usually do the trick if it's just light glazing.

[az'03Silverado]

OK, I did it. I did the brakes this morning. I used a 150 grit sanding sponge and brake cleaner on both sides of all rotors. Then I put on a set of Autozone's Duralast Gold ceramic pads. The truck stops real well now with no squealing. I'll probably have Sears flush the system next time I take it in for a tire rotation as the fluid is looking kinda nasty. Thanks everybody for ringing in.

[Faded]

Flex Hone for Rotors.

[az'03Silverado]

UPDATE: Ok, I take back everything I said above. The Duralast pads turned out to be crap. Apparently, there was a casting flaw or something because they got hung up and stayed pressed tight against the rotors. (yes, I lubed them) Well, they started to squeak again so when I jacked the truck up, the wheels barely turned by hand. So, I re-did the whole thing. I bought some Raybestos QS Ceramics for all 4 wheels. They fit very well. Much better than the Duralasts did and they came with all new clips and shims. I HAD THE ROTORS TURNED THIS TIME. (not yelling, just emphasising) Lubed everything real well. The brakes are 100% better now. Stops like a dream. Oh, since I didn't have the receipt any more and I didn't want another set of Duralasts I just took the hit and tossed them.

[larry arizona]

GMT 800 brake rotors are junk (Chinese from the Factory). They are not thick enough to turn and likely will rot before you hit 65K miles in any norther states.

 

Standard practice is to replace rotors and pads.

 

I don't think the Duralast pads were your problem. The standarad clips on the caliper bracket get "sticky" and distorted so it does not matter what pad you put on there they can and will bind. You did the right thing by replacing the clips. Durlast Golds are a good pad and likely as good or better than most replacement pads for the simple fact that they are made in the USA.

 

Not too many pads are made in North America any more and I don't trust anything made in China. I think Raybestos are made in the USA.

 

I recently did my brakes on my 02 Z71 and at 65K all the rotors were junk, the rear brakes were not even working due to the pads being stuck in the caliper frame and the clips being distorted.

 

The front rotors looked good on the outside but the insides were delaminating and were grooved and rusted badly. Would say I was lucky to be getting 50% of the front brakes working. No wonder it was taking longer to stop.

 

Replaced front rotors with Brembo's (just they OEM replacement style, not the slotted or cross drilled ones) They actually have plenty of meat on them and these may be able to be turned once if they can hold up better than the OEM ones.

 

Had a new spare set of GM rear rotors laying around so I don't expect much out of these rotors either. But heck they were free.

 

What is strange is the front and rear pads still had plenty of meat on them. It is the rotors and the ability of the pads to move freely that causes issues. I just have accepted the fact that I will need to clean and lube the pads and clips so they continue to move freely in the caliper frames. Maybe once or twice a year is what it will take.

 

But the brakes were awesome now. Nice firm pedal and great stopping power.

[torx]

GMT 800 brake rotors are junk (Chinese from the Factory).  They are not thick enough to turn and likely will rot before you hit 65K miles in any norther states.

 

Standard practice is to replace rotors and pads.

 

I don't think the Duralast pads were your problem.  The standarad clips on the caliper bracket get "sticky" and distorted so it does not matter what pad you put on there they can and will bind.  You did the right thing by replacing the clips.  Durlast Golds are a good pad and likely as good or better than most replacement pads for the simple fact that they are made in the USA.

 

Not too many pads are made in North America any more and I don't trust anything made in China.  I think Raybestos are made in the USA.

 

I recently did my brakes on my 02 Z71 and at 65K all the rotors were junk, the rear brakes were not even working due to the pads being stuck in the caliper frame and the clips being distorted.

 

The front rotors looked good on the outside but the insides were delaminating and were grooved and rusted badly.  Would say I was lucky to be getting 50% of the front brakes working.  No wonder it was taking longer to stop.

 

Replaced front rotors with Brembo's (just they OEM replacement style, not the slotted or cross drilled ones)  They actually have plenty of meat on them and these may be able to be turned once if they can hold up better than the OEM ones.

 

Had a new spare set of GM rear rotors laying around so I don't expect much out of these rotors either.  But heck they were free.

 

What is strange is the front and rear pads still had plenty of meat on them.  It is the rotors and the ability of the pads to move freely that causes issues.  I just have accepted the fact that I will need to clean and lube the pads and clips so they continue to move freely in the caliper frames.  Maybe once or twice a year is what it will take. 

 

But the brakes were awesome now.  Nice firm pedal and great stopping power.

 

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On my last truck I never had to replace a rotor-87 GMC r1500. Replacing pads 4 times. I just had them turned. Never had a problem with them warping. With the "new to me" hubless rotors they are only good for one set of pads?

[toyotatech]

Replace the rotors with the pads. My truck has 65k and i am getting ready to do the brakes for the first time. I can't believe how rusted the rotors are. The rears are really bad. There is nothing left to turn.

[Rolandd]

The 1500 rotors do seem to be junk: 11,k miles with no towing or heavy loads and mine are warped--off to the dealer for warrenty replacement I hope. I have never tried to scuff a rotor for new pads: either it was smooth and I left it alone or I had them turned. The problem with scuffing, whether with a scotch bright pad or sand paper is that you will likely not evenly remove the glaze, which will lead to pulsing brakes as part of the rotor will grab better than elsewhere as it rotates. If you are determined to hand clean a rotor (some older front drive cars required a lot of work to get the rotors off because the bearings rode on the rotor casting) have the rotor rotating and sand it while in motion. In a shop I worked in we had a large electric drill for the job, we would put sandpaper between the pad and rotor and reassemble the brake. Once the rotor was rotating we would gently clamp or pry the caliper to apply pressure to the sandpaper. The results were OK but not the same as having the rotor turned.

[revitup]

If you're going to 'sand' the rotors to roughen the glazed surface, don't use anything but garnet paper. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the pads more likely to chatter and squeal.