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I have a '97 Z71 4x4 Ext. Cab short box with the 350 Vortec, trailering package with tranny cooler and 3:73 gears. I was wondering what I could safely tow in either a fifth wheel or travel trailer. Does anyone know?

 

Thanks....Wade

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I have a '97 Z71 4x4 Ext. Cab short box with the 350 Vortec, trailering package with tranny cooler and 3:73 gears. I was wondering what I could safely tow in either a fifth wheel or travel trailer. Does anyone know?

 

Thanks....Wade

 

 

 

 

 

wade, you could check the RPO code for what package you have. The C codes give GVW ratings and the J codes tell you what brake package is on your truck. There's a RPO code list on this board, over on the left side, just click on it. Your RPO codes are listed on sticker in the glove box.

 

For example my truck has a C6P code = 8600 lbs. and a JH6 = 9900 lbs. brakes. So in theory I can tow 8600 lbs and stop 9900 lbs

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Irrespective of what the tow tables say, towing about 6000 lbs with a 1/2 ton truck equipped with the factory tow package, is pretty much the practical limit. I base that statement on the testing conducted by a leading truck magazine where they towed a 6000 lb trailer with a Silverado Z71 truck (5.3 and 4 speed auto) and they claimed that the truck struggled on hills to maintain speed and downshifted frequently. A 4 speed auto transmission is not an ideal transmission for towing. A 5 or 6 speed is much better. For very short distances you may get away with 7000-8000 lbs, but for longer hauls, do not go over 6000 lbs unless you want to shorten the life of your transmission by 50% or more. For towing trailers over 1000 lbs, using the tow mode is a must. Or you will destroy your transmission before 36k miles, like my neighbor.

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I have a '97 Z71 4x4 Ext. Cab short box with the 350 Vortec, trailering package with tranny cooler and 3:73 gears. I was wondering what I could safely tow in either a fifth wheel or travel trailer. Does anyone know?

 

Thanks....Wade

 

 

 

 

alot goes into calc towing capacity..

 

1500s can tow dont get me wrong but if your arent carefull you will kill your truck.

Most fifth wheel's pin weight is over your payload capacity.

A Travel Trailer on the other hand is your best bet just remember the dry weights are far from the real weights.

The GCWR (truck+trailer+people+gear+etc) for a 5.7 3.73 is 12000lbs so I wouldn't go over a trailer with a 6000 GVWR/4500 dry weight and keep it less than 30 feet.

If you want all the math it can get real crazy.

Every dealer I have worked with has let me take it to the scale so just ask to take it for spin and scale it(http://www.catscale.com/). Just remember to add weight for the family and gear.

I tow a Rockwood 2701SS (30foot TT) with my 99 1500 4x4 Burb. I scaled it at 11500 and would not want to tow any more. It works hard on hills and needs to drop to second to keep speed on long grades. I would never do this if it was new but she is paid for and no need to rush out and spend 30+ for a new 2500. I have installed a tranny B&M cooler and guage. Highly recommend the guage as nothing worse than cooking the tranny. I also install 4 BFG load rate E tires (good stiff tires help preventing sway) along with Monroe Reflexs on the front and SensaTrac Load Adjusting on the rear(spring over coil). Add in a Prodigy brake controller and a Reese Dual Cam for WDH/Sway and it is ready to roll. No tow haul mode on a 99< so unless on a real long flat stretch it in 3rd to keep the rpms where you need them. A 4.10 would help but that means front and rear on a 4x4 and just too much $$ to justify for now.

rv.net has a great forum for towing just remember there is alway they weight police who believe you need a diesel to tow a pop up..

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WADE........Just happen to have a 97 GM tow guide handy !

 

5th wheel max. trailer weight 6500 lbs., max. kingpin load

1200 lbs.

Ball and hitch w/ bars 7000 lbs. max. 850 lbs. max. tongue weight

 

Notes: Max. trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and 1

pass. in the tow vehicle and it has all the proper trailering equip.

The weight of addl. pass. and opt. equipment in the tow vehicle

must be subtracted from the max. trailer weight.

 

Hope this helps.............geo

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you to everyone who has replied, now I have a much better idea of what I can tow. Lab1, I am looking at buying the same trailer you have, a Rockwood 2701SS. Can you tell me what you think of the trailer(sorry, I know this is off topic).

 

Thanks...Wade

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Wade,

 

According to the various RV forums, it is best to keep trailer weight to 2/3 or less of the maximum. They call it "The Happiness Factor." Above that number, the truck and transmission struggle.

 

Of course, it also depends on where you tow. I live in Oregon and I simply cannot go in any direction without pulling hills. That's why I choose to drive a Duramax/Allison diesel, even though my trailer weighs only about 7,000 pounds wet.

 

Brakes are a consideration, as well. Half-ton brakes are limited because of their small sweep area, so please think well ahead when stopping. The addition of a top-quality trailer brake is essential; I would highly suggest the Tekonsha Prodigy.

 

Tires: Check the Load Range that is marked on the side of your tires. Do not tow with Load Range B. Personally, I use 10-ply (Load Range E) and even used them when I used to drive a half-ton Z-71.

 

Your are very wise to check out all of the numbers and to ask advice. A lot of folks get away with some pretty silly things when towing, but it's always better to be well within the towing parameters of your rig.

 

Good luck, my friend.

 

Steve

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Tires:  Check the Load Range that is marked on the side of your tires.  Do not tow with Load Range B.  Personally, I use 10-ply (Load Range E) and even used them when I used to drive a half-ton Z-71.

 

 

 

 

 

A load range E tire is more than a 1/2 ton will ever need. I have LR D 305/70 MTR's on my 02 Z71. The max weight per tire is 2910 lbs., the LR D 285/75's are around 3300 lbs. That means that on the ass end of my truck the tires will support almost 3 tons. I wouldn't put for than 5000 lbs. on them for long distances, but if you're planning to put that much weight on a truck don't even look at a 1/2 ton...you need a 3/4 ton or more.

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My buddy tows 10,000 lbs with his 1500, no problem at all. Fully loaded enclosed race car trailer. The only mods are E tires, and a monster tranny cooler, nothing else.

 

up hills are a little slow, so what !!!

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My buddy tows 10,000 lbs with his 1500, no problem at all.  Fully loaded enclosed race car trailer.   The only mods are E tires, and a monster tranny cooler, nothing else.

 

up hills are a little slow,  so what !!!

 

 

 

 

And how many miles does he have on it? I wonder how long will the transmission last. What about the drivetrain clunk?

 

What kind of transmission cooler did he install?

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Thank you to everyone who has replied, now I have a much better idea of what I can tow. Lab1, I am looking at buying the same trailer you have, a Rockwood 2701SS. Can you tell me what you think of the trailer(sorry, I know this is off topic).

 

Thanks...Wade

 

 

 

I love it.. We looked at several different trailers before we went with the 2701ss and the quality of the trailer just seemed better and one year later we have had no problems. The actual tongue weight loaded is much higher than dry and that is due to the front storage and propane tanks are empty for those specs. That is a good thing though as most will say the dry tongue weight is to light for good towing characteristics and should fall around 10-15 percent of the trailers GVW. When adding the numbers up this trailer is a tight fit for a 1500 but it can be done. When I scaled mine loaded kids gear for a 4 day trip I was very close to maxing the front and rear axles rating and was just under my GCWR but like I said before upgrade your shocks, tires(range E), add a tranny cooler & temp gauge, flush tranny & new fluid, change front rear diff to synthetic, Reese HP Dual Cam WDH/Sway kit, and a Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller it tows fine.

 

1. I have very little sway and the trailer tracks great.

2. Tranny temp stays below 210 on the hottest days even in stop and go traffic.

3. Yes it will need to drop to second to keep speed on long grades.

4. Factory brakes are poor and I agree with dogzapper think ahead when stopping and don’t skimp on the brake controller. Brakes are my next upgrade Brembo Slotted Rotors front and HD Pads and Shoes front and rear.

5. I would recommend Range E tires but 02z is right it is over kill Range D works. The ¾ ton bit is works too if you got 30+ to drop on the truck and then 20+ for the trailer.

 

Simple upgrades add up but some may need to been done as part of normal maintenance and will make towing much more enjoyable and really depend on your situation and comfort level.

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PM 26 Please let me add my advise on the transmission cooler.

 

There are several good ones out there but I recenly installed a "stacked plate" designed cooler to my 1500 Yukon XL 5.3L 4.10 gears. I would highly recommend this design. They are far superior to the tube and fin style. I removed the wimpy OE cooler and placed the larger stacked plate cooler in it's place. I bought mine from CARQUEST. Ask for the gold series, it will be a stacked plate design and I think it is made by Hayden. I would also strongly suggest that you replace ALL of your fluid with a premium synthetic fluid such as AMSOIL. Their website will provide instuctions to flushing all of the old fluid. It took 14 qts to replace mine.

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