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2000 Z71 5.3 coolant flush and transmission fluid


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#1 chasenfish16

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 12:43 PM

I know these subjects have probably been beat to death, but can someone explain to me how to drain, flush and refill my engine coolant. And how much transmission fluid wil I need if I pull the drain plug in my transmission pan and drain the fluid.

Thanks

#2 J45p3r

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 02:48 PM

When I do the coolant I buy a Prestone coolant flush kit at my local automotive supply store. It has you splice a "T" connector into one of the heater core lines and lets you hook up a garden hose to backflush the system.
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#3 HotWheels301

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 07:58 PM

I have also used the Prestone flush kit. Just remember to take a look at the connection every once and awhile where the tee goes because they tend to leak a bit after awhile. Basically, just check the clamps every so often to insure they're tight.

#4 HotWheels301

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 08:03 PM

I have also used the Prestone flush kit. Just remember to take a look at the connection every once and awhile where the tee goes because they tend to leak a bit after awhile. Basically, just check the clamps every so often to insure they're tight.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Also, to just drain the tranny, it will take 5 qts. for a 4L60 and 7.7 qts. for a 4L80. I'm assuming you have the 4L60. But with your vehicle being a 2000, you might wanna consider a tranny flush and filter change. How many miles on the vehicle?

#5 asepgrad98

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 08:52 PM

the trans drain plug will only let about 2 quarts out
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#6 C & A s Dad

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 09:35 PM

Trans will hold approx 5 qts if you drain and drop the pan. I would suggest that you visit Amsoi's website as it will instruct you on how to easily flush your entire system at home. If you do this, you will need apprx 12 to 14 qts. Do not let anyone talk you into a flush without dropping the pan and changing the filter. If you do it at home, you will find the trans drain plug is very tight. This is because is it put in with loctite from the factory. If you want to be safe, simply heat the plug just a little bit with a small propane torch. I am talking about 5 to 10 seconds. Then use a real good quality 6 pt socket and the plug will come right out.

As far as the coolant flush, another easy job. Use a good quality non acidic flush and follow the intructions on the bottle. You will drain the old coolant, refill with flush and clean water. Drive for 10 to 15 mins after it is warmed up. Drain again, refill with clean water, drive for 15 mins again. The instructions will now tell you to refill with antifreeze. I would recommend you refill, drive and flush one more time to be sure all the flush is out. Now refill with50/50 Dexcool antifreeze and distilled water. I would also strongly suggest you add a product from Lubegard called Kool It. Not only will it drop your op temps by 5 to 7 degrees, it will help eliminate electrolysis in your cooling system.
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#7 larry arizona

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 10:33 AM

Heads up, On the GM trucks with the trans pan bolt THEY DO NOT COME OUT! They are loctited into place and even the dealer will not take the bolt out.

With that said I can say that I am personally responsible for the removal of the usless trans pan drain plug starting in late 2003 and start of 2004 MY. Long story short , My buddy works for GM and I told him about the loctitied trans drain plug, we agreed he should hand this in for a cost save project for GM (GM employees only program and if approved that employee gets a nice bonus). It was approved and he was cut a check by GM for $20,000 (yes he shared the bonus with me) and it saved GM $1.5 million anually.

The explanation for loctiting the bolt in was that there were issues with people overtightening and having a trans pan leak as well as undertightenting it and loosing the plug leading to trans failures. Becasue it was recessed in the pan it did not let very much out of the pan anyway.

SO do not try to pull the plug out of your 2003. You will not be able to get it off and likely will round the corners on the bolt or damage the pan.

#8 C & A s Dad

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 01:58 PM

I did remove mine using the method I explained earlier in this thread. It was really no big deal but you will not do it with a std chrome 12 pt socket. You have to use a very high quality 6pt impact socket along with a very small amt of heat.

Actually on mine, I did not even have to heat it but I know some who have.
'02 Yukon XL 5.3 4.10 Gear
True Flow CAI, Red Taylor 8.2 PowerVolt Wires, Amsoil Fluids front to rear, RA300 Filter Mag, AirLift Air Springs, PML Finned Alum. High Capacity Diff. Cover, Putnam XDR Class V Receiver, Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge, Hypertech Max Energy Tuner

'71 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe SWB
350/4bbl, PS, AT, AC 100% Original, Even the Paint
100% American Iron

May the products and/or services that you provide not become incorrectly perceived as inferior to similar products and/or services offered by foreign companies as has happened with the Automotive Manufacturing Industry.
Be American, Buy American !!!




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