Loud Noise Unknown Origin

tattooedtonka · July 1, 2006

Good day, I am so frustrated I am ready to put all my wrenches away and break out the 8lb. sledge and take it out on this dang ol truck.

Alright, I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado Z71, halfton, 4 wheel drive.

I get a loud clunking, grinding noise while turning to the right only, and only at speeds in excess of 20mph. I read the tech sheet on lubing the intermediate steering shaft, and have done so. I thought maybe it is the outer cv joint, so I replaced the passenger side half shaft. I can hear it, feel it in the steering wheel, feel it in the gas peddle, and the passenger can even feel it under their feet. What is it. I am running out of ideas, and patience. The sound is a rythmic lope, it is like something that is out of round, or like a a metal grind. It isnt a wheel bearing because it doesnt go away if you put more steering pressure on it. And it only happens turning right. I moved the passenger side tire to the rear driver side just in case it was my tire going bad and fooling me. Nothing.

Please say someone has an idea for this, I would greatly, greatly appreciate it.

Thank you

tattooedtonka · July 18, 2006

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you for your idea. I will try that this weekend. Since my post I have lifted the truck, grabbed and shook everything I could. Nothing seems to be loose. I normally drive my service van for work purposes, so I have limited times that I actually use my personal truck. I did take it for a ride in some curvy areas with the windows down, and tried to pay close attention as to where the noise was really coming from. It really sounds like it is in the steering column area under the hood. But I cannot say that for sure. I will definately try the bearing idea though.

Being that they are sealed bearings is there a way that I could tell if they are bad other than the obvious visual signs. Do I need to remove the bearing or do I leave it in?

All your ideas and input is greatly appreciated.

bobcat5544 · July 18, 2006

what type of lift body or suspension

tattooedtonka · July 18, 2006

Sorry bout the confusion bobcat, by lifted, I mean putting it up on a lift to look at the underside. I didnt mean lift kit. Sorry again

bobcat5544 · July 18, 2006

This should fix your problem

Document ID# 1771223

2001 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Pop/Clunk/Click Noise on Right or Left Turns - keywords body floor front mount pan steer suspension #PIT3118K - (02/24/2006)

Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2006 Chevrolet Silverado

2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

1999-2006 GMC Sierra

2000-2006 GMC Yukon Models

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:

Owners may comment on a pop, clunk or thump type noise when turning left or right. This noise may be heard and/or felt at either the drivers or passenger floor pan area.

Recommendation/Instructions:

Note: Body mounts are number as below and depending on the body configuration the number of mounts will vary. Example, a Suburban will use all 12 mounts listed below and a Regular Cab Truck will only use the first 6 listed below.

At Rad Support in front of vehicle are the "Front End Sheet Metal (FESM) Body Mounts" Left Hand & Right Hand.

At the A-Pillar of the body are the "#1 Body Mounts" Left Hand & Right Hand.

At the B-Pillar of the body are the "#2 Body Mounts" Left Hand & Right Hand.

At the C-Pillar of the body are the "#3 Body Mounts" Left Hand & Right Hand.

At the Quarter Panel wheel opening are the "#4 Body Mounts" Left Hand & Right Hand.

At the tailgate in the rear are the "#5 Body Mounts" Left Hand & Right Hand.

This noise may be caused by the #1 body mount. To correct this concern install 4 of the following insulators:

Install two insulators, P/N 15053229 on the bottom of each #1 body mount between the body mount and frame. Before these insulators can be installed, they need to be trimmed to fit. The inner diameter will need to be cut to 2 inches (52 mm) and the outer diameter to 3 1/8 inches (80 mm).

Tighten the body mount bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft).

Test drive the vehicle to verify the repair.

Important: While the #1 body mounts are removed check the underbody area that interfaces with the top of the body mount for excess build-up of E-Coat Primer or other foreign material. If the surface is not smooth use a 90 degree die grinder, or equivalent to remove the excessive build-up. Apply an anti-corrosion protection to the bare surface as necessary to prevent rusting and re-assemble.

Note: During the warranty submittal, please identify the location of the body mount that was serviced per the location list documented above.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Document ID# 1771223

2001 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD

rjirvine · July 1, 2006

When you replaced the half shaft did you try to move the front hub around to check the bearing? It sounds like a hub/bearing assy to me. I had a 97 K1500 do almost the exact same thing.

tattooedtonka · July 18, 2006

Thank you bobcat, now not trying to doubt you, but is this for a single pop or clunk noise, or will it be for a repeating clunk throughout the turning?

For example, if I drive into a 1/4mile long sweeping turn at 55mph. I get a constant clunking, grating noise throughout the entire turn. And it is only on right turns. Driving left I can do 70mph as smooth as silk through a turn. And it is more dominant as a noise and feeling in the steering wheel than in the cab area. It can be felt in the floor, but not as strong.

Also I can turn gradually to the right, when I feel no resistance in the wheel, and there is no noise, but as soon as I turn a little tighter, and I can feel the resistance of the turn on the steering wheel, the noise begins.

I hope I am explaining this well enough, I know it is hard to accurately diagnose a problem without seeing it for yourself. And again, I appreciate any and all help I receive.