How-To: Install Passenger Side Power Window Regulator.

tylersdale · July 14, 2006

After looking frivolously for a "how to" on installing a window regulator and finding none, I am compelled to write what I found as I did this job on my truck.

First of all there are only 2 - 9/32 bolts that hold the door panel on. One is located right behind the door handle in plain sight. The second is the one that eluded me and I ended up breaking the hook off the back of the panel...it's located under the switch panel. It's a snap to remove; just pry around on it and it comes right up. Once again; these are the ONLY 2 bolts holding the panel to the door. Snap the cover off that goes around the door opening handle and also the little triangular piece that's where the wing windows used to be on the older trucks. Also pull the plastic part that's over the door lock. Then gently lift straight up just a little and pull out towards you. The panel will come right out where you can then unplug the speaker wire and remove the bulb assembly from the door light at the bottom. 1 - 3/8 bolt holds the door handle on; remove the handle and set aside. Then strip the plastic off being careful not to tear it since this will be reused. This is to keep moisture out and road noise down. My problem was a broken cable so I could move my window up and down by hand, but you may have to plug the switch in to move yours to the right position. I think it's about 1/4 inch down where you can see the 2 - 3/8 bolts that hold the window to the regulator. Loosen these bolts then gently break the window free. Pull it all the way up and tape it there so it doesn't fall and break while you are removing the old unit and installing the new one. There are 6 - 3/8 bolts that hold the assembly in place and it's pretty easy to figure out which ones they are. Take these out and work the unit out through the large hole at the bottom. The new one goes in pretty much the same way only in reverse. After I got the 6 - 3/8 bolts back in place I plugged the window switch in and rolled the unit all the way up being careful to make sure the clamps were going to line up with the window. They did, so I took the tape off and slowly lowered the window where I could tighten the 2 clamps down on the glass. Put the plastic back on, then the door handle. Plug the speaker wire back in and put the light back in at the bottom of the door, then set the panel back in the holes. Mine wasn't hard at all. Reinstall the 2 - 9/32 bolts then plug the switch assembly in and snap back in place. Replace the rest of the plastic covers and you should be pretty much finished.

I'm don't do a lot of mechanic work, so I feel this is a job most anyone can do. I had to glue the part that I broke, so my job took longer, about an hour.

Good luck and I hope this helps someone with the job.

This link also provided some good visual assistance - http://www.a1electric.com/silverado2.htm

Snakebit · August 22, 2006

I used this forum and this thread to replace a worn out regulator. This narrative, along with the accompanying pics in the link made it a 1 hour job. Thanks to Tylersdale for the info, it was almost TOO informative.

Thanks again.

yukon4wd · December 7, 2006

First thanks for this, its a very helpful how to.

But I have a problem.

I have an SLT 04 Yukon, and my door panels ar slightly different than those in the pictures. At the bottom of the door panel I have a small strip (about 4-5 inches high) of gray carpet. When I remove the door pockets (I had to remove a screw under the bottom of the door to do that), inside I can see two small plastic extensions, they extend form the door panel tot he outer door skin, and it seems as though the door panel is screwed into them.

To me it looks like I have to remove the carpet to get to some screws, but removing it is going to make a mess.

Does anyone know if I need to remove the carpet, or is there a secret clip in there or something?

PS I am replacing a broken Passenger window that was the result of getting robbed. They got my digital camera, so I can't post any pics.

jhortonvt · December 29, 2006

I just replaced the power window regulator on my '02 silverado passenger side. What an easy job!!! I was a little skeptical about doing it. My neighbors drivers side regulator went on his '04 tahoe, and he brought it to a local guy (who does good work for a good price). It cost him $150 for the regulator assembly and b/c he had some other work done its hard to say what he was charged for the labor but it had to be another $50-75. So about $225 and the guy told my neighbor it is a real pain to change it out. I think he might have been laying it on a little thick there.

Well, after carefully getting the door panel off (25 minutes) which I think the biggest trick was -after removing the various screws which I think there were about 4, one of which is under the door handle cover- to lift vertically on the door panel itself. Most of the plastic attachments were upside down "L" brackets that held the panel on the sheet metal.

Then after strategically cutting and removing the palstic in a way which I could replace and retape I started on the power window regulator screws.

Just like posted here its a matter of taping the window up, loosening the 2 window clamp screws then remove the 6 regulator frame screws and take the regulator out of the door. Put the new assembly (which I got brand new on eBay for $30 +$14 s/h) in through the hole and put the screws back in slide the clamp up to the windoe and tighten them down.------15 minutes flat!!!!!

Put the door panel back on after you retape the palstic sheet in place and your done. Not a bad idea to check the system out by plugging it in and running the window up and down a few times, and even lubing the slides, before you put the panel back on.

Anyway It took me about 1 hour and I saved about $180, I don't know about you but I don't get paid $180/hr so it was well worth my time.

Thanks for your tips Dale!

nimmer · September 12, 2007

Justin, in your explanation, which is great by the way, of how to replace the window actuator, you mention lubing the tracks before installing the new unit. Curious, what did you lube the track with?

Thx

Richard

millerado · April 18, 2008

I just replaced my 99 z71 PW regulator assembly with one off of ebay, it was 27 +13 shipping... i felt like i was taking a chance buying it. It was super easy to install and came lubed with lithium grease and really just bolted in, the motor, the regulator and all the cables ready to go... then i lowered the window glass into the holders and tightened them up, it was perfect. After doing all of this i thought i would add that his instructions are clear AND THIS IS A VERY EASY FIX Im so glad it was, because i remember how hard it was to get the door panels off on my 93 GM at least they made the replacement super easy with a great door panel that is easy to remove.

MallCrawler · August 18, 2008

I replaced my passenger side window regulator/motor over the weekend.

Long story short, if your truck is more than 5 years old and the power windows go out, just buy a new regulator complete with motor and it will save you time and money.

Skip Talker · December 1, 2008

This site is great. Anytime I have a problem I come here and find an answer. This morning I get in my truck and the driver side window doesn’t move. With the engine off I can hear a click and the dome light dims slightly just like when I’m using the passenger window. I don’t hear any motor running or anything else. I tried to move the window by hand but it won’t budge. I didn’t try that hard though.

Questions. The above procedure should be similar for the driver’s side window? Any way to tell from my description that it is the motor or regulator? Or just get both pieces as mentioned?

It’s a 2004 Z71, 200,000+ miles.

Thanks Skip

Skip Talker · December 7, 2008

The 04 is a bit different but nothing major. 2 9/32” bolts, one by the door handle, the other you have to snap off the cover to the door lock to reveal. Half way up the back of the door is a torx screw and sleeve. There is a cover for it but mine fell off years a go. Towards the front of the door is a plastic wedgey thing that pulls out. Mine also had a bottom tray that collects junk and it doesn’t have to be removed but it might make it easier to see what’s going on and get one of the light wires unplugged. If you want to remove it one screw from the bottom and it pulls out. The little triangle piece on the top front prys down from the top and pull it up. The whole panel lifts up and out. The wiring harness can be tricky if not familiar with them.

The only problem I could see is if the window stopped somewhere where you couldn’t get the bolts that clamp the glass down. My stopped at the top and I taped it up there. Bolts were easily reached and the old motor assembly came right out.

$49.95 delivered and about an hour.

EWM1 · January 10, 2009

How much more is involved to swap out the side window? Mine got chipped by a salt truck. After removing the door panel, do you just remove the moulding around the window, unbolt the window, then lift it out? Do you have to remove the side view mirror also?

Any help would be appreciated!!!!!!

Skip Talker · March 12, 2009

How much more is involved to swap out the side window? Mine got chipped by a salt truck. After removing the door panel, do you just remove the moulding around the window, unbolt the window, then lift it out? Do you have to remove the side view mirror also?
Any help would be appreciated!!!!!!

In my opinion the hardest part would be to get the side cover off. Once you get the cover off, you temporally hook up the window control. Roll the window down to where you can access the bolts(?) that clamp the glass down. Once they are loose the glass should lit right out. Though I noticed this is a few months old, so you might have done it all ready.

5.3isnota327 · April 24, 2009

They don't "just lift right out", you lower the window about two-thirds of the way down, then lift up on the rear of the glass. Now you may lift it straight up and out of the door. It's easier if you remove the outer belt weatherstrip first. Be careful not to scratch the glass.

nonotme42 · May 7, 2009

I'm lucky enough to have this going on now.

JUST started happening yesterday on my driver's window. I hit the autodown, it started to go normally, and then stopped. Pressed it again, normally, almost stopped, go, stop, go stop, and then made it all the way down. Going back up was very similar, but even more reluctant. It went from working perfectly to almost not at all in probably 4-5 uses. Unreal.

Since the truck is now 5 years old, with 60,000 miles rolling up in just a couple weeks, I guess I should get the regulator and motor both, so I don't need to tear into one side twice.

Passenger window is alright still, but I can't imagine its replacement is far off either.

My real question here is, a couple or more people have mentioned getting it on eBay for considerably lower prices than you would find anywhere else...does anyone recommend a certain seller, certain brand to be known not to break again in 5 minutes or any other suggestions for this? I'm somewhat familiar with taking door panels off and such, so hopefully that won't be a big issue, and the replacement should be pretty straightforward from what I've read, but I know brands and sources for parts can make or break a project...and warranty or not, I don't want to do it twice for no reason.

Guymoe · May 7, 2009

Try using the Parts Gorilla for the replacement regulator.Zembonze can walk you through the order process as he is the supporting vendor for Parts Gorilla...as for the problem with your regulator chances are the cable has jumped the pully's and wrapped itself around the gear on the motor...We replace quite a few of these and 99% of the time that's the problem...

Hope this helps...

Nobia · June 4, 2009

Hi All. I have been looking high and low on the internet for some clear guidance on replacing my passenger side window on my '91 Silverado-Suburban (PS: can anyone explain why I have both emblems on this mostly suburban body style? I have asked but get differing explanations). Anyway I really liked the clear explanation above (thumbs up!), but am worried - since it was mentioned above - that my model year may have some extra surprises.

I have successfully removed the custom wood panels, door panel, plastic and such already. My major question is: Is the right way to replace the motor; to remove the whole assembly along with the motor, or just the motor? Seems it would be easier - since I don't have tentacles for arms - to do the whole thing? But am not experienced enough to be sure. Anyone know where I can hire a GM Certified octopus that works cheap?

finally: Is there a diagram available on the Net or here where the proper layout of cables, guides etc is? So I can check the assembly to make sure nothing else is wrong? (My window creeped for weeks before quitting). And will there be anything else to be aware of other than what is mentioned in the tutorial - because of the older model?

Thanks for any help you can give and I now know where to come for experienced and DIY help. Keep up the good work.

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Follow-Up

After trying to figure out how to get the Assembly (Regulator?) out I have hit a snag. First I have confirmed that the motor is turning (Yeah!) but the gear connected to it doesn't (bummer!). I can move the window up and down by hand (on the glass) about 2 inches - but that is it. If I use the motor at the same time to help it is easier. Does that mean I need to relube only? or is something else wrong?

Okay. So - inspect the assembly - its time to remove the whole thing. Not quite sure how though.

1) there is an indentation in the CENTER of the window holder/slide that looks like it should allow the REAR Scissor Arm to come out (IF I can move the end of the arm that far) but the indention is in the CENTER of the Window Holder while the end of the arm (that would use the indention) is positioned too far away towards the REARMOST end of the holder (the slide is part of the full length window holder and the wear on the slide shows that the arm is now as far forward as it normally travels, IE. never gets near the indention). When the window is all the way DOWN I would suspect the end of the rear arm should be slid to the far REAR end of the slider/holder and if UP the front and back arms should be almost TOGETHER in the MIDDLE of the slide (middle of the window), however how do I get the arm to move that extra distance to the indentation? Am I right about that?

2) the top end of the FRONT Scissor Arm is also at the FRONT END of the window slider/holder (window up). The BOTTOM/REAR end of THAT arm slides in a short guide under the door handle and I can find no bolts to remove that guide.

3) another site mentions removing the bolts that hold the window to the slide. But can find no bolts through the window (It seems to be just sitting in the groove at the top of the slide/holder. Glued I suspect since it doesn't want to come out.

I'm afraid that if I remove the 4 bolts holding the motor/gear assembly in place that I wont be able to remove it; IF I cannot get the arms detached from the slide attached to the window.

Do I detach the arms from the slide first? IF I need to get them out at all that is. The top window slide that these arms slide in; seems to be attached to the glass of the window itself? Does this slide guide come off the window instead?

Help? I am delivering papers and it is killing me to get out of the truck to throw papers to the passenger side of the street (my left wrist is hurt so I cannot just snap them over the truck).