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New torsion keys vs. stock


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#1 Plumbob

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 03:55 AM

I've been doing some reading on torsion tweeking but have a few questions. What's the difference between putting a different set of keys or cranking the stockers? I've also read about the GM green keys that I believe I can use on my non HD 2500. Will the ride be better with changing out the keys vs. cranking up my stock keys? Any input is appreciated. :)
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#2 GatorFan

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 06:22 AM

I've been doing some reading on torsion tweeking but have a few questions.  What's the difference between putting a different set of keys or cranking the stockers?  I've also read about the GM green keys that I believe I can use on my non HD 2500.  Will the ride be better with changing out the keys vs. cranking up my stock keys?  Any input is appreciated.  :)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


I think the Ford T-bars give you a little more lift than cranking the stock keys due to the angle of the Ford keys. That is what I did because I didn't want to crank my stock bolts all the way to get the look I wanted.

Not sure about the Green Keys, but I'm sure there are a few folks on this site that have used them.

The Ford keys ran me about $35 for the pair. I used 1999-2003 4X4 F-150 keys.
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#3 Yukon04

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 02:34 PM

I think that it is common knowledge that you don't want to crank the torsion bars up more than 2" or so. The result, in majority, is a decrease in ride performance. It can be overcome, but the pay-out vs gain is not usually worth it for most of us. A true suspension lift would be in order at that point. I believe most of us do the adjustment to just get more of a "leveled" truck look by reducing the front end rake.

The point is: If you can get the 2" of torsion bar lift with the stock keys; good. The only thing the "Ford keys" or any re-indexed torsion bar key does is allow for greater adjustment. There is no advantage over the other, besides the obvious; and thats not having to buy new keys in the first place.

Some trucks come from the factory with lots of adjustment, some come with little or no adjustment. That's when the re-indexed keys are desired...

Regardless, I recommend an alignment if you crank the bolt more than just a few times...good luck.

#4 Plumbob

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 05:41 PM

Is there a good part number for some keys that would work for me. I also plan on replacing my shocks (still have originals installed), anyone have good part #'s for some front's that would allow for more travel when I do level it out? I really don't want to do the extension brackets. I have hear of alot of folks going with the Ford keys for leveling out due to the lobes being in a different location allowing for more adjustment, I don't plan on going more than and inch or two...just enough to sit right and fit some 285's or 305's. :P
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Summit White 2000 Silverado 2500LD 4x4 6.0L 4L80E 3.73 w/ G80 locker
Black Westin Nerf bars
Dee Zee powdercoated black brush guard
J & B Bedliner sprayed in
Goodyear Wrangler A/T 265/75/16
35% front tint, 20% back tint
Fog lights (have yet to get BCM programmed)
JVC KD-HDR1 head unit; Infinity Reference 6012si & 6412cfp front and back; 2 10" MTX Thunder 4500 woofers w/200 watt amp

#5 grayghst

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 09:08 PM

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#6 Plumbob

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 12:08 AM

And those will work on my non-HD 2500? All the info I can find shows the 2500HD.

Edited by Nice rig, 09 January 2007 - 04:33 AM.

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Summit White 2000 Silverado 2500LD 4x4 6.0L 4L80E 3.73 w/ G80 locker
Black Westin Nerf bars
Dee Zee powdercoated black brush guard
J & B Bedliner sprayed in
Goodyear Wrangler A/T 265/75/16
35% front tint, 20% back tint
Fog lights (have yet to get BCM programmed)
JVC KD-HDR1 head unit; Infinity Reference 6012si & 6412cfp front and back; 2 10" MTX Thunder 4500 woofers w/200 watt amp

#7 mattro

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 04:51 PM

I did the ford torsion keys cranked all the way to match my rough country add-a-leaf in the back....id say its 3.5inches higher the ride got worse after that until i put new shocks on for the lift. Now the front is only about 1/8 of an inch lower than the rear so it looks level. My truck is a 99 nbs reg cab 4x4 4.3 V6 5spd 3.73 so i wasnt going to get too crazy maybe some rims down the road but there are allready 265 tires on it which looks nice. But this thing is sluggish as it is. I just wanted more of a truck look but not so much and odvious lift look and with the add a leaf i can haul lots in the bed without it even sagging.
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#8 Baker4x4kb

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Posted 09 September 2007 - 05:14 PM

I've been doing some reading on torsion tweeking but have a few questions. What's the difference between putting a different set of keys or cranking the stockers? I've also read about the GM green keys that I believe I can use on my non HD 2500. Will the ride be better with changing out the keys vs. cranking up my stock keys? Any input is appreciated. Posted Image

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


I think the Ford T-bars give you a little more lift than cranking the stock keys due to the angle of the Ford keys. That is what I did because I didn't want to crank my stock bolts all the way to get the look I wanted.

Not sure about the Green Keys, but I'm sure there are a few folks on this site that have used them.

The Ford keys ran me about $35 for the pair. I used 1999-2003 4X4 F-150 keys.

I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x4, Reg. Cab, Short Bed. Ive got the full black guard, same wheels, almost looks identical to yours exept that I have cranked the torsion bars a good bit and after adding that grille guard it sits about an inch lower than what I want. Are the Ford keys factory that will fit my truck or are they aftermarket? I just set up my account I will try to get some pics up. Thanks! -Baker

#9 old uncle larry

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Posted 13 September 2007 - 05:36 AM

Here is good info on torsion bars.
http://www.fullsizec...acing-tech.html
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#10 jigga99

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Posted 13 September 2007 - 02:10 PM

good info