Hard Starting Due To Loss Of Fuel Pressure - Help!

brufener · April 22, 2007

I have a 2001 Suburban (5.3) that has been a solid vehicle. Last winter it began to have a hard time starting, especially when it sat for a long time. It would turn over fine, but acted like no fuel was present. After a few seconds of turning over, or if I left the key in the "on" position, it would start fine. After a few months one day the fuel pump wouldn't turn on so I figured the fuel pump was the problem. I replaced the fuel pump myself w/ a cheapy from ebay.

The hard start problem has gotten worse since then. If I leave the car turned off for even 15 or 20 minutes, I have to let the fuel pump run before cranking the engine or it won't start right up. Sometimes I need to turn it to the on position twice, or let it crank over for a few seconds before it will start. If I turn the car off, it will start right up immediately with no problems.

I swapped the fuel filter, and it helped for 1 day. I thought I might be losing pressure at the fuel filter connections, so I tried wrapping the threads in teflon tape but it seems like it is worse now.

Any idea what is wrong? I have no idea how to trouble-shoot a fuel system. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

clean66 · September 12, 2007

Hello all,

Same problem with my 03 6.0.

Fuel pressure regulator is good. After sitting, no pressure at Schrader valve, no gauge to check key-on pressure.

I have been qouted the following from Chevy dealer: p/n 19121626, Module, Fuel Tank Meter Sender/Connector, $545.88. Is this a separate part from the fuel pump?

Thanks,

Mark

chrias · June 10, 2008

I have the same issure with my 2000 Suburban 5.3. I've replaced the FPR and fuel filter with no change. I have to prime the system 3 times to get 55 psi and when I shut it off the pressure drops quickly to 15 psi and slowly bleeds down to zero.

I don't think my injectors are leaking because I'm not having driveability problems, it's not flooding on startup and there is no black smoke coming out of the exhaust after startup.

I'm guessing it's my fuel pump and I changed that two years ago.

zickefoj · June 15, 2008

I have the same issure with my 2000 Suburban 5.3. I've replaced the FPR and fuel filter with no change. I have to prime the system 3 times to get 55 psi and when I shut it off the pressure drops quickly to 15 psi and slowly bleeds down to zero.

I don't think my injectors are leaking because I'm not having driveability problems, it's not flooding on startup and there is no black smoke coming out of the exhaust after startup.

I'm guessing it's my fuel pump and I changed that two years ago.

I have an 03 5.3 liter V8 Burb and I am having a lot of the same issues decribed in this thread.

A couple of other things happening to me are while driving down the road my engine basically cuts out - hesitates really bad, I can feel the power steering go away. I have no smell of gas or leaks that I can visablly see.

I have replaced the Fuel Filter and the plugs to date.

Any advice on the Regulator as for its location and what it looks like? From what I read if I find this and pull the hose there should be NO fuel in coming from the hose - correct? If wet at all then bladder is borke and it should be replaced.

Has any done a Fuel Pump on the Burb in order to give some direction?

Thanks,

Stitch

whiplash · September 28, 2008

I am still having a starting issue with little time to work on the truck, but my pressure is good all the way around. Mine is an '05 and the dealer said that the pump, filter AND regulator are all one piece in-tank. Can the pump and/or filter be replaced individually on the newer trucks or does it have to be an assembly change?

putter · December 1, 2008

Hi newbie here,I have a 2000 Yukon xl with 140K on it. I have a similar problem, last summer the fuel pump went out on me on vacation,

Long story short had the dealer replace the pump and filter, $1,000.00 later it ran fine.

After a wile it started to have starting problems. When cold or sat for 5+hrs it started just fine. If I let it sit more than 20 minutes it doesn't want to start right a way, it cranks for 15-30 seconds and sputters to life. I'm going to check the regulator tonight.

Did the regulator fix anyone's yet??

putter · December 10, 2008

well the regulator worked for me, runs great!

thanks

scrowetn · December 11, 2008

i had starting trouble on my 2000 5.3 and checked fullsizechevy.coms forum and everyone said fuel pressure regulator, if you pull the vaccum hose off of it and gas drips out the regulater is bad and needs to be replaced, i did it to mine and sure enough gas came out so 45 dollers later for the part at auto zone now truck starts like new hopefully that helps

I was having the exact same problem as Putter:

"When cold or sat for 5+hrs it started just fine. If I let it sit more than 20 minutes it doesn't want to start right a way, it cranks for 15-30 seconds and sputters to life."

After a while, I also started getting a low rough idle and occasional stalls at idle. I registered a few 0300 random misfire engine codes as a result. Thanks to low2kchevy for the tip about pulling the vacum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. I did mine and sure enough I also had gas drip out. Went to Auto Zone and got the $45 replacement part, installed it and now it starts and idles like new! As a note, I had to re-use the old filter screen instead of the filter screen that came with the new fuel pressure regulator. For whatever reason, the new screen was a hair too wide and I couldn't get the clip back on using it. Also, watch out for the little o-ring that may not come out when you remove the regulator. I had to go in after mine with a pair of sharp nose pliers.

ryans_z71 · January 19, 2009

This is my first post - I have a 2003 5.3 Sierra and I am having the hard starting problems also. I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel regulator with no luck to resolving the issue. So, I bought a pressure gauge that attaches to the Schrader valve and it registers 45 psi at idle and during cranking slowly builds to 45 psi. I read that the psi needs to be 55 at idle and 65 psi just with the ignition in the on position. Is this correct?

markw8 · January 19, 2009

This is my first post - I have a 2003 5.3 Sierra and I am having the hard starting problems also. I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel regulator with no luck to resolving the issue. So, I bought a pressure gauge that attaches to the Schrader valve and it registers 45 psi at idle and during cranking slowly builds to 45 psi. I read that the psi needs to be 55 at idle and 65 psi just with the ignition in the on position. Is this correct?

I can't say for certain, but I believe your 55-65 is more likely to be correct than 45#s.

Mark.

rs250 · January 20, 2009

Hey all...I used to spend a lot of time here back in 03 when my truck was new but have not been on in some time and forgot my old info so had to re-register...

I have a 2003 1500 with a 4.8L. I just did a major tune up @ 120K last week and about two days ago I started having the hard start issue...wierd since I just did plugs, cleaned TB and MAF and lots of other stuff...truck is babied and very well maintained, has been flawless for 5 years and a 120K but now this!

I put a fuel press. tester on it today and it cranks up to about 50 or so but then bleeds down to zero VERY fast...less than a minute. Tried changing the regulator with a new one but still same thing...I should be getting 55-62psi I think and little to no leak down correct?

Could this be my check valve in the fuel pump going bad?

I also just replaced the fuel filter when I did my big 120K tune up, I think it was the third filter I have put on and also ran some Techron....I doubt this caused anything though...my fuel pump is original and has 3000 hours of run time.

So my questions...is my fuel pressure bleed off due to a check valve in the pump assy. since I swapped regulators with no joy?

Is my somewhat low fuel pressure a result of my pump getting old and weak (not 55-62 psi) ??

Thanks!

fatsix · May 17, 2009

I'm having the same issue as Glenns. Just replaced the fpr and no change. The truck runs fine, When you turn the key on it builds pressure immediately and after two minutes it drops to 0. AFter the truck sits for an hour or so, I have to cycle the key 3-4 times to get it to start. I'm guessing the check valve in the pump is bad and is allowing the fuel to drain from the lines? Just like to be sure before i drop the tank.

rs250 · July 15, 2009

Funny that I come back to this tonight....well I have been driving the truck for months like this including some long over the road trips. Finally got tired of the wait to start so I have the bed off right now and am replacing the pump with a new GM unit tonight...it is probably ready even if the check valve is the only thing wrong as the truck just turned a 130K over the weekend!!

So, here I am replacing the pump, which btw was making stranger noises the last few days, and I am bit confused.

I see this came with a new plug to splice in the harness, ok, no problem but it says to toss the 20 amp fuse and replace with new one included in kit, except there is no fuse...so what does it need, a 30 amp one now? Is it drawing more power?

I'm having the same issue as Glenns. Just replaced the fpr and no change. The truck runs fine, When you turn the key on it builds pressure immediately and after two minutes it drops to 0. AFter the truck sits for an hour or so, I have to cycle the key 3-4 times to get it to start. I'm guessing the check valve in the pump is bad and is allowing the fuel to drain from the lines? Just like to be sure before i drop the tank.

Edited July 15, 2009 by glenns

rs250 · July 15, 2009

So just to reiterate, do I need to bump up to a 30 amp fuse now?

Thanks!!

bill190 · July 15, 2009

Might check your owner's manual, fuse section for a PCM B fuse...

rs250 · July 15, 2009

Well no real need to change the fuse I guess, the original 20 amp one is in there and the truck fires right up as normal with the new pump...quiet as can be!!

Pulling the bed to replace the pump HAS to be the easiest way, very simple job!! So, at least in my case a hard start and low pressure must have been a faulty check valve in the pump!