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Which Oe Replacement Brake Pad/rotors Do You Recommend


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Poll: Which OE replacement brake pad/rotors do you recommend

Which factory replacement brakes Rotors do you recommend?

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Which factory replacement brake Pads do you recommend?

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#16 C & A s Dad

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 10:51 AM

I've not had good experience with Autozone "DuraLast" pads or their rotors. On my '97, the rotors warped and the pads were noisy. On my wife's 2003 Chrysler minivan, the pads are noisy. I need to change these soon (d*mn minivans eat brakes!), and I don't know what I'm going to use..


Autozone, Advance Discount Auto Parts and Carquest sell junk for brake parts. That includes cheap Chinese rotors, cheap pads, poorly remanufactured brake calipers, you name it. Best avoid those places for your brake needs.


Pete, I really cannot speak for Autozone, Advance and Discount, but I an assure you that our brake parts are far from "junk". Our pads are application specific formulated by Raybestos and IMO are the best pads available when considering everyday brands. I am sure there are some really premium micro brands out there that my outperfom our pads but our Blue and Gold series meatallics and ceramics are absolutely premium products. Our Red series is alos supplied by Raybestos but this is the Economy side of our offering.

As for rotors, you are correct in saying they are made in China and I hate this as much or more than anyone. Howver, the fact is, there is no US rotor company that can possible supply us or any other major Auto Parts Chain. There are a few rotors still mfgd in the states but very very few. I will tell you that the quality of Chinese rotors is all over the board. From rotors being cast in red dirt all the way to extremely high tech state of the art manufacturing facilities. We have chosen the finest mfgs in China and as of today, have almost zero warranties or complaints with our rotors.

I will offer the same defense of our Calipers. They are supplied to us by A 1 Cardone and are excellent quality and we sell them by the train load with almost no warranty issues at all.

Please remember, approx 75% of our business comes from the Professional Installer and commercial type customers and our Brake line is one of our top 3 lines. We have literally thousands of Professional Shops that swear by our Brake Parts. Please understand, we would never gamble with the quality or our Premium line products. We have far too much to loose.

If you have had a particular bad experience with our Brake Parts, please let me know and I will be happy to do my best to make it right for you.
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#17 C & A s Dad

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 08:51 AM

Pete, I sent you a PM concerning this also.

Just curious to see if you received it?
'02 Yukon XL 5.3 4.10 Gear
True Flow CAI, Red Taylor 8.2 PowerVolt Wires, Amsoil Fluids front to rear, RA300 Filter Mag, AirLift Air Springs, PML Finned Alum. High Capacity Diff. Cover, Putnam XDR Class V Receiver, Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge, Hypertech Max Energy Tuner

'71 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe SWB
350/4bbl, PS, AT, AC 100% Original, Even the Paint
100% American Iron

May the products and/or services that you provide not become incorrectly perceived as inferior to similar products and/or services offered by foreign companies as has happened with the Automotive Manufacturing Industry.
Be American, Buy American !!!

#18 LewiSILVERADO

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 01:44 AM

Were those GMPP brakes made by Baer? I know they look just like their alumnasport kit, and they are drilled/slotted. Always been concerned about warping with cross drilled since that happened to myself and another friend on a set of Baer rotors. Prior to that, I'd never had warped rotors.


I don't know who made the GMPP rotors. They looked like stockGM rotors that had been drilled and slotted. Lots of money, very poor performance (at least on the Cobalt).
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#19 BJD3

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Posted 10 June 2008 - 03:18 PM

This is old, I know, but I have read several places that for a street car don't get drilled rotors because the warp alot faster than non-drilled rotors. They dissipate heat faster, but they also don't have the structural integrity a "full" rotor does.



#20 BlownL67

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Posted 11 June 2008 - 09:33 AM

I've had very good luck with Durastop Cermaic pads and Durastop rotors from the dealer. I used them in my Grand Prix, and just did a Maxima, Equinox, and a Cavalier using the Durastop line. The ceramic pads leave no dust and no squealing either!

#21 svensk

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Posted 04 July 2008 - 11:38 PM

Had the shop by house put NAPA premium rotors and pads on the other day. They work very well I actually expect them to be a tad better than the oem parts.

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#22 CapitalTruck

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Posted 25 January 2009 - 06:45 PM

I still have my factory rotors (2004 Silverado, 97k miles). I have put on one set of pads over the course of my ownership of this truck (had it since new). I used the factory OEM ACDelco pads for the front and rear. They seem to do pretty well.

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#23 klow24

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 08:42 PM

I have an 06 Sierra with the 13in front rotors, rear drums, and 17 in wheels. I went to www.ajusa.com and got the powerslot rotors just for the front. Part numbers 8657PSR and 8657PSL. None of the parts stores in town however seems to have pads that would fit. When you ask for pads that give you a set but the anti-rattle clips do not fit on the caliper correctly. So I just used the stock pads and couldnt be happier. Its quiet and stops like a dream.

My next feat is to replace my drums because they are out of round but after extensive research you can only get the drums from gmpartsdirect. If you try and get them from the dealer they are about 280 bucks a peice for the drums and 200+ for the shoe kit.



How can you tell if your rear drums are out of round?

#24 06mobydickstatus

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Posted 04 September 2009 - 07:58 AM

I have Power Slots and Hawk pads on my 77' and I must say, the braking feel and reduced stopping distance is well worth the money. Plus, I like the look of the power slots.
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#25 spurshot

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Posted 04 September 2009 - 08:57 AM

I have an 06 Sierra with the 13in front rotors, rear drums, and 17 in wheels. I went to www.ajusa.com and got the powerslot rotors just for the front. Part numbers 8657PSR and 8657PSL. None of the parts stores in town however seems to have pads that would fit. When you ask for pads that give you a set but the anti-rattle clips do not fit on the caliper correctly. So I just used the stock pads and couldnt be happier. Its quiet and stops like a dream.

My next feat is to replace my drums because they are out of round but after extensive research you can only get the drums from gmpartsdirect. If you try and get them from the dealer they are about 280 bucks a peice for the drums and 200+ for the shoe kit.



How can you tell if your rear drums are out of round?


:cheers: Being from the generation that had drums on everything, the indication to me is a pulsing pedal. Drums can be turned.

My experience is that a rotor or drum that warped and is turned (within specs) doesn't give any problems later (no more warping). That's MY experience, your mileage may vary. Warping is caused by pre-existing stresses in the rotor/drum. Once the rotor warps, it relieves the stresses. You then turn it and it's less likely to warp again. So, if I have a warped rotor, I prefer to turn it (if still within spec) rather than buy a new part and roll the dice again.

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