Jump to content



Photo
- - - - -

100,000 Mile Maintenance


This topic has been archived. This means that you cannot reply to this topic.
8 replies to this topic

#1 69supersport

69supersport

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 22 posts

Posted 08 August 2007 - 10:47 AM

I am pretty good at doing most things on my truck. What i'd really like to know is what needs to be done to my truck at 100,000 miles. I have searched all over this site for more info and probably should be looking in the manual for more info but also would like info about what to use when I do this maintenance.

My truck is a 2005 silverado, crew, 5.3 z71 4x4. My main concerns are the transmission and all fluids, but I would also know what I should do to ensure another 100,000 out of my truck. I am also curious if changing all this is really worth the time, I mean, how much will I save versus a jiffy lube type job? I know they do not care for my vehicle as much as I do, but is there a bargain I can get through them that would be feasible and valuable?

Here is what I plan to do so far... Oil change, rear end gear fluid change, spark plugs, wires, coolant flush, (add a trans cooler, may or may not do on my own), and possible battery upgrade, also upgrade the thermostat. What else will I need to do? I would like to use the best of everything, in reason of course and plan to do much of this myself, since drain and fill plugs are easy to find, my biggest concern in this area is what types of fluids or lubes to use? Im interested in weights and so forth, not really brands. Thanks

#2 C & A s Dad

C & A s Dad

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 2,888 posts
  • Location:Mississippi
  • Gender:Male

Posted 08 August 2007 - 10:37 PM

I can help with a few of your questions. You are on the right track with your list, I would take a good look at your Micro V Belt as well and flush the power steering as well. You could consider flushing the brake fluid but you may not want to do this at home.

I am assuming you are already using 5W 30 oil. I would completely flush the trans fluid myself and add the cooler at the same time. It is really not a big job. Amsoil's website contains some great step by step instructions on how to flush the fluid. I would also suggest syn trans fluid if you plan to tow at all. You can even use GM's new Dexron VI which is a full synthetic and can be used in previous models. If you add a cooler, be sure and get a stacked plated design cooler and not a tube a fin. The SP design is much more efficient. If you live in a warm climate, get a 11" x 11" x 3/4", if you live in a cooler climateor are not really towing anything, step the size down one notch. You will also see some SP coolers that are 1 & 1/2" thick. I would not recommend them as they do not work as well as the thinner models. Hayden is our (CARQUEST) supplier and they are excellent quality.
'02 Yukon XL 5.3 4.10 Gear
True Flow CAI, Red Taylor 8.2 PowerVolt Wires, Amsoil Fluids front to rear, RA300 Filter Mag, AirLift Air Springs, PML Finned Alum. High Capacity Diff. Cover, Putnam XDR Class V Receiver, Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge, Hypertech Max Energy Tuner

'71 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe SWB
350/4bbl, PS, AT, AC 100% Original, Even the Paint
100% American Iron

May the products and/or services that you provide not become incorrectly perceived as inferior to similar products and/or services offered by foreign companies as has happened with the Automotive Manufacturing Industry.
Be American, Buy American !!!

#3 RiverRat5.0

RiverRat5.0

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 422 posts

Posted 09 August 2007 - 12:19 AM

take a look at the coolant and in cabin air filter and air filter in the engine bay as well. make sure everything is lubed up ther should be 11(?) (correct me if im wrong) zerks under the truck. and everything stated above...tranny flush brake fluid power steering fluid rear-end....i would go with synthetic in everything....
'11 Ford F150 4x4, Supercab, 5.0, 3.73 w/ E locker, Trailer brake, Chrome, Convenience, off road pkg, ect.

-Recent GM vehicles-
'09 Pontiac G8 GT-OR should we say Holden VE Commodore since Pontiac is dead...Stock engine, 20% Tint, GXP diffuser, Clear corners, VG shark fin antenna, Exhaust tips, 6k HIDs-Sold because it was an unreliable Pos...

'04 Silverado 1500 ext. cab 4x4 z-71 blue w/ access roll up cover, Bed rails, tint, LED third brake light, alpine sound system, custom dual exhaust, bully dog tuner, Luverne billet grille, polished ss bowtie and goodyear wrangler silent armor tires

#4 ToddZ

ToddZ

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 35 posts

Posted 09 August 2007 - 06:38 AM

What about spark plugs and wires? I know that's the first thing on my list in a couple thousand miles when i hit 100k. Also, shouldn't you do the transfer case as well?

#5 C & A s Dad

C & A s Dad

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 2,888 posts
  • Location:Mississippi
  • Gender:Male

Posted 10 August 2007 - 11:13 AM

I do not have a 4x4 and have never serviced on but I am sure it would be a good idea to change the fluid. As far as the plugs and wires, I would definately change them. I used NGK because there were Original Equipment on my '02 model. They are great plugs and I would recommend them or AC Delco for your truck. Be sure to have a good set of high quality wires on hand when you change the plugs. Changing the plugs is no big deal but getting the wires off the plugs is. You will likely bread or damage a wire getting them off. Even if you do not see any damage, replace them anyway.

The right side rear plug is a little tough. I used a 3/8"drive flex head long handled ratchet and was able to put the socket directly on the plug with no univ joint or extension. If you need an ext, you can get a 1" 3/8 drive that may help you. This allows direct access to the plug and makes it pretty easy.

Buy a tube of dielectric grease and some anti-seize compound. Permatex makes both in small one time use packets. Use the dielectric grease in the boots where they slide on the plugs and coils. Use a small amt of the A/S on the threads of the plugs.

Very important. Make sure the engine is cool when you remove the plugs. Pulling plugs from a hot head will sometimes take the threads with it. You do not want this to happen. As long as it is cool, you will have on problems.
'02 Yukon XL 5.3 4.10 Gear
True Flow CAI, Red Taylor 8.2 PowerVolt Wires, Amsoil Fluids front to rear, RA300 Filter Mag, AirLift Air Springs, PML Finned Alum. High Capacity Diff. Cover, Putnam XDR Class V Receiver, Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge, Hypertech Max Energy Tuner

'71 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe SWB
350/4bbl, PS, AT, AC 100% Original, Even the Paint
100% American Iron

May the products and/or services that you provide not become incorrectly perceived as inferior to similar products and/or services offered by foreign companies as has happened with the Automotive Manufacturing Industry.
Be American, Buy American !!!

#6 69supersport

69supersport

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 22 posts

Posted 10 August 2007 - 04:41 PM

Awesome, thanks all!! So far I have changed the oil and rear end fluid. The dealer did the t-case fluid receintly due to some warranty issues left un-attended. The steering shafit is new, and next im on to the trans fluid and cooler, oh yes do I tow. All 8400 lbs is put to work. Plugs and wires are after the trans, and then to the coolant.
A side note.......I can say enough about the 5.3 and my truck over all. I tell everyone how my American made truck(taunting my tundra driving friends) has over 100k and runs better than the day i bought it(and I really....really beat the crap out of it) Oh yeah, and gets the occasional 2nd gear chirp.

#7 ScottieBoy

ScottieBoy

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 902 posts
  • Location:Shreveport,LA (Formerly New Orleans)
  • Gender:Male

Posted 23 August 2007 - 10:54 AM

Don't forget the fuel filter! Its easy to change, its under thr drivers side framerail. Lie on your back andlook under the truck. It will probably be underneath the drivers door or maybe a bit further to towards the back of the truck, you will see the metal "tomato sauce can" sized fuel filter. All you need is two wrenches to change it. But be careful, gas will leak everywhere. It's a bit easier if you depressurze the line first. Find your fuel pump fuse and pull it out while the engine is running and let the engine die on its own. That should take most of the pressure off the line, but gas will still leak out, so be careful. When I changed mine I used a permanant marker and wrote the date and mileage on the new filter before I intalled it. That way, I can easily see how old it is when doing a visual inspection.
Posted Image
2001 Chevy Suburban, 04 Denali leather seats, Autopage RS860 2-way alarm/remote starter,
20% Window tint, 6000k HID lowbeams, 6000k fogs, 06 Suburban LTZ Air Dam and fogs, Blue LED AC panel and interior switches,
polished T-Rex billet grille, Stainless Steel step bars , Corvette servo, Blackbear Tune, 09 GMC Sierra 17's, Ebay clear corners, Rolling so hard that hoes get pregnant when I drive by.

#8 takethebounce

takethebounce

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 50 posts
  • Location:AB, Canada Eh

Posted 24 August 2007 - 08:34 PM

No one mentioned it but I am curious as well to any recommendations for front/rear diff fluid weights for a higher mileage 4x4?

I went with Amsoil ATF in my last truck and it made a difference in the shifting of the truck right away. Its not cheap but its great stuff!

Adding an aftermarket trans cooler is quite simple for the do it yourselfer, just be sure to count on the extra tran fluid when you do your change for the cooler and the lines.

#9 Dezzmo

Dezzmo

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 8 posts

Posted 26 August 2007 - 11:10 AM

Subscribing (Post Count)




Advertise Here