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60,000 Mile Service


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#1 djv1951

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 02:45 AM

I have a 2004 2500hd 4X4 with the 8.1 engine and it's getting close to the 60k service. Is it really worth the $950.00 dollars the dealer wants to perform the service. Does the rear and front ends and transfer case fluids, brake fluid and engine coolant really need to be replaced or is it just a scare tactic the dealer uses to make money. I was thinking just have them service the transmission and let the rest of the items go? I can change my own air filter and engine oil and filter at a fraction of the cost. What do you guys think?

#2 DBVille

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 06:31 AM

At 60,000 miles and 5 years, I would change all the fluids, including the power steering (suck it out with a turkey baster). I do it all myself, so it would be maybe $150 or so, for fluids. They say the coolant should be good, but all the lubricants I would change.

Dealers pricing tends to be high, you might find someone else to do it cheaper. If you plan on keeping the truck, I would change them all.
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#3 Airspeed-Alive

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 06:36 AM

including the power steering (suck it out with a turkey baster).



Great idea. I'm going to have to try this now - thanks.
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#4 ATMINF

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 07:45 AM

Don't forget to lube the frame, and all the zerk fittings also. And one fluid alot of people forget is the brake fluid. They have alot of those one person brake kits that give a single person the ability to purge the brake fluid without worrying about not getting to the brake reservoir quick enough and letting air into the brake system.

I would also look at the O2 sensors, plugs, wires, trans, and fuel filter (if itís not in the tank), and just look over the owners manual and see what other things need to be looked and changed. I would say also your mileage is low, but since its 5 years old, why not change it out and have the peace of mind like when it was brand new. Also not a bad time to look at the hoses and belts to insure they are in good condition. The reality is that the parts today are much better than before, but at the overall cost vs. the one time something goes and your stranded or worse your wife and kids, it makes sense to do some preventative maintenance.

Also since itís got the Big Block check to see if it needs the Crank positioning sensor "fixed", I believe there was a service bulletin out on it. Hope this helps.
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#5 sgrah230

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 08:02 AM

I would have to say that you should try to do the things your self. Then if there is something you could not figure out or did not want to attempt you could have a shop do just that one thing.

Then take the left over money and buy something for your truck!
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#6 TyeeMan

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 12:52 PM

In my opinion you would be foolish not to do the required maintenance at the very least. Lubes and fluids DO break down over time especially if you work the truck. This is about the cheapest insurance you could by for your truck.
Engine oil, transfer case oil, front and rear differentials are about the easiest fluids to change. If you wanted, have somebody change the tranny, brake fluid and coolant.
You have nice investment, , wouldn't it be nice to keep it like new for as long as you can? I,m just sayin.

#7 233monte

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 09:07 PM

I have a 2004 2500hd 4X4 with the 8.1 engine and it's getting close to the 60k service. Is it really worth the $950.00 dollars the dealer wants to perform the service. Does the rear and front ends and transfer case fluids, brake fluid and engine coolant really need to be replaced or is it just a scare tactic the dealer uses to make money. I was thinking just have them service the transmission and let the rest of the items go? I can change my own air filter and engine oil and filter at a fraction of the cost. What do you guys think?



Remember, you DO NOT have to take it back to the dealer for maitenance. If you choose to let a shop do it other than the dealer, make sure you keep documentation of what was done so as not to void your warranty (if you are still under warranty). If you do it yourself consult your owners manual as to the proper fluids to use.

Your dexcool coolant is 5 years or 150k, so your due for that. brake fluid definatley. whatever the book says do it!! one thing, if you choose to get the trans done, try to pick a shop that has a trans flush machine. just dropping the pan, doesnt get all the fluid out of the trans.

Edited by 233monte, 29 May 2009 - 09:08 PM.

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#8 spackelman

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Posted 30 May 2009 - 10:48 AM

I would have the dealer do:

A trans flush, external and internal filter change (specify synthetic trans fluid), assuming you have the allison.

Transfer case and front differential. Replace with sythethics.

The coolant, rear end and power steering fluids can be change by a local jiffy lube or similar. I use a shop in nj called "the oil well". They are good and inexpensive.


A couple of examples on the crazy money my dealer wanted for simple stuff -

$200 to change the serpentine and a/c belts.
$50 to replace 1 drl and 1 side marker light.

Edited by spackelman, 30 May 2009 - 10:48 AM.

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#9 bill190

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Posted 30 May 2009 - 10:54 AM

You can get a 4 book GM factory service manual set for around $150. (Order from dealer)

This would tell you what all to service and how to do it. Also would give you complete troubleshooting and repair instructions for the future.

I've done this for years. That is follow the factory service manuals advice for periodic maintenance. Basically I have pretty reliable vehicles even though they are older. And they are happy and "purr" when all these little things are serviced/replaced as they should be.

So one way or the other, do-it-yourself, or have dealer do it, it is a good idea.

As to 3rd party mechanics and things like a 60,000 mile service or whatever. I've found they don't always have the factory service manuals nor do they have the parts easily available. So in my experience, if you take it to a factory dealer, you are more likely to get everything on the "list" serviced or parts replaced than at a 3rd party mechanic. And the dealer is more likely to use the proper lubricants.

As to lubricants and using the right kind... I recently purchased a new axle for my trailer for $600. The manufacturer's instructions said to use a *specific* type of bearing grease. So I went to buy that at the auto parts store. They did not have it, and the guy there said I could use "any bearing grease" and the kind I wanted would cost "$2 more". This is the sort of thinking I have found. Anyway I went down the street and purchased the correct type. If the manufacturer is specifying a specific type of lubricant, it is for a reason!

And I've noticed this with other products (non-automotive) as well. If you take it to a factory repair facility, they have the parts and factory service manuals to repair things "right". But if you take it elsewhere, they might not have the part, so might just clean something instead of replacing. Then the repair does not last very long.

#10 See Ya

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Posted 30 May 2009 - 11:32 AM

Thats insane to charge $950 to do the diffs and other non expensive maintenace. I did my diffs this past winter after starting to notice a burnt smell around 50,000 miles plus while plowing. It cost about $150 to have diffs changed and tranny flushed. The diff oil was all black and nasty looking when it came out. I'm gonna change it every year or so for now on as well as have the tranny flushed too! The coolant is good for 100,000 so it says in the book, but I get it tested every so often.
Moved on.

#11 Dave R.

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 09:32 AM

I have a Chevy Avalanche 2500 with 8.1 Vortec in it. It just turned 100,000 miles and as suggested above I would like to change the power steering fluid. The problem is, the power steering fluid reservoir has a 12" tube and I cannot get my fluid sucker hose all the way into it. There seems to be a block or something right about where the 12" tube enters the reservoir. Anyone else seen this on the 8.1 liter?

Suggestions?

Edited by Dave R., 05 September 2009 - 09:33 AM.


#12 2COR517

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 10:59 AM

For you guys changing PS fluid, just pull the return line off the pump. Pour in new fluid as the old crap comes out. Need a helper to shut the truck off.
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