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How To Shop For An Intake


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#16 stlavsa

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Posted 23 September 2010 - 09:22 PM

Since stock with a KNN drop in outperformed the other closed style intakes, Would a k&n drop in + the Airaid MIT essentially function the same as a KNN/AEM full intake? Or does the open element factor of those give it an edge on anything that's closed in?


The open style (based on our testing) performed better than the closed style. Remember to not look at the HP numbers, as that is just max HP. IATs and MAP are most important. I personally go with the MAP, as that means you have the least restricted path for airflow.



Generally if you are talking about pure WOT HP a short stack, open element cone filter design intake is your best option for total HP. Couple it with a correctly size velocity stack and its about as much power to be had (or free'd up) with an intake.

LIke she was saying tho differet styles perform better in different areas. Just because the short tube open element give u the most MAX hp at WOT, it doesnt mean it helps the driveability of the truck in 95 degree heat in stop and go traffic. Which is why you need to choose your intake for your specific needs.

ORRRR if you actually want any kind of real power, stop wasting money and get a real intake that actually compresses the air your your motors taking in! :D
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#17 stlavsa

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Posted 23 September 2010 - 09:36 PM

Can anyone explain why you can't retro fit (or just make) something like this for the 08+ silverados?

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories


I would bet anything that this thing, coupled with a better filter, would do just as good as any of the open tube intakes that cost $250.00

You could even fit the end of it with a properly sized velocity stack similar to this http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

and it would do even better. Feel inside of a regular k+n cone filter, it has a small velocity stack built into the base. This just expands upon it big time. It works and would be most beneficial if you coupled it with a tune from someone like blackbear to correnct the A:F ratio spikes at the resonance frequencys.

Edited by stlavsa, 23 September 2010 - 09:37 PM.

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#18 907Denali

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 06:37 PM

I had an AEM on my Tahoe and was very happy with it. If I were to do it all over again, probably an AEM Brute Force or a K&N 77 series.



Why do you choose the K&N 77 Series over the 63 Series if they are claiming 6 more HP with the 63 Series? Just Curious....

#19 Jennabear

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 07:12 PM

I had an AEM on my Tahoe and was very happy with it. If I were to do it all over again, probably an AEM Brute Force or a K&N 77 series.



Why do you choose the K&N 77 Series over the 63 Series if they are claiming 6 more HP with the 63 Series? Just Curious....


I like the metal tube, better for IATs.
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#20 2001Silverado364

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 08:19 PM

The 63 is plastic and is more insulated, thus better IATs and more power. But, the metal one will give you more of that roar when you thromp the gas.

#21 Jennabear

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 08:50 PM

The 63 is plastic and is more insulated, thus better IATs and more power. But, the metal one will give you more of that roar when you thromp the gas.


You are mistaken.

The plastic actually holds heat longer, which equates to higher IATs. The metal can dissipate the heat much quicker, hence the lower IATs.
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#22 2001Silverado364

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 08:59 PM

O.k. then, well everybody on duramaxforum.com and performancetrucks.net is wrong. And....so is K&N for saying it is the one that insulates better and gives more HP. But, I believe you because I'm sure you've ran many dynos with them and have hard evidence.

#23 Jennabear

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 10:35 PM

Everyone is their own expert :thumbs:. Most people will take everything they hear and post it back up, so the same info goes from forum to forum and back again.

I personally would never believe a manufacturers claims on HP and TQ, as I have seen first hand how they tweak the graphs or wording just enough to slide a fast one in on you. I have nothing to gain by posting these numbers nor stating my preferences- I don't sell intakes nor so I have ties to any intake company. We just happen to have a lot of hard data both on the street as well as dynos- and we don't mind sharing it to help people make an educated purchase.

In summary, closed box systems take slightly longer for intake temps to heat up (in traffic), but take much longer to shed that heat once airflow increases. The open element systems do heat up a bit more quickly, however, tend to shed that heat much more rapidly once airflow increases.
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#24 kdixer

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 03:43 PM

The 63 is plastic and is more insulated, thus better IATs and more power. But, the metal one will give you more of that roar when you thromp the gas.


You are mistaken.

The plastic actually holds heat longer, which equates to higher IATs. The metal can dissipate the heat much quicker, hence the lower IATs.



If plastic holds heat longer , then it will also take longer to heat up. The thin metal tubing will heat up rather quickly but in return it will disipate heat quickly.
The intention of my posts are simply an expression of my personal opinion. If they offend you, let me go ahead and appologize now. If that is not good enough, why do you care what i think? You probably don't even know me anyway.

#25 Baker_one_nine

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 02:35 PM

I had an AEM brute force on my Tahoe 5.3. Was very impressed with the quality of the parts. Sounded great and REALLY seemed to help out the throttle response.

I just have a k&n drop in on my silverado 6.2... which is just me being lazy until the summertime.

#26 4wd

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 04:56 AM

I would go with Jenna claim, because in tuning you see real time numbers not marketing numbers...removed my Airraid tube but if I ever put it back I may insulate it.

#27 Carder

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 10:40 AM

I bought an Spectre Intake for my 06 5.3, its all metal and i read before I bought it that it heats up quickly and can decrease performance if lightly driving, Well I bought some mechanix arm sleeves that can insulate against heat up to 400 degrees, tested it out myself and they seem to hold up, so I put the sleeves over the metal tube itself to help block some heat from the tube so hopefully its helping out however minute it might be, the sleeves were cheap so there's no real loss.

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#28 Willshire

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 02:25 PM

Judging by the information here, if one were to purchase say.. a GMPP cai and drop a K&N cone into it, would breathing be increased? That is to say, GMPP filter is dry synthetic and K&N is oiled cloth (GM claims Warranty issues with oiled filters), would this setup perform any better? GMPP makes a nice looking air box as far as i am concerned but AEM and K&N make really good filters. I am just wondering what the concensus is here.
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