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2008 Silverado Power Door Lock Actuator Failed


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I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado Quad cab that has this same issue. read drivers side died 6 months ago and now the other read door has died... cant believe this is not a recall.

 

I've sent a private message to Tricia from GM and hope to have some assistance.

 

 

Since it is not a safety issue doubt you would ever see a recall.

 

There never was a recall for exactly the reason that RyanbabZ71 said - it wasn't a safety issue (though part of me says there should've been a recall on principle alone). However, I had the dealer take care of mine in the summer of 2009 and it was all covered under warranty. I was chatting w/the mechanic afterwards and he said that not only was I not the first one in the shop w/that same problem, but ALL the Silverados that were in the shop that week were there for failed door lock actuators. Seemed to be an endemic problem w/the '08s and '09s.

 

GM was nice enough to give me a rental Silverado for the three days she was in the shop though. Since the repair, haven't had a problem since.

 

The most recent recall that I can remember for the 2008 was for a control module under the front seat. That was summer 2010, I think (can't remember for sure).

Edited by SabresNation
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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok. Here is a $5 fix for your 2008 and up crap china made door locks that half work or just quit working.

I am assuming you have enough mechanical ability to remove the door panel, but if not, there are instructions on this site on doing that. This mod also should work on Tahoes and Burbs, but I can not say 100% it will.

 

First, you will need one of these. Yes, it is a cheap china made lock actuator, but hey, so is the one GM put in your vehicle.

 

http://www.amazon.co..._auto_ai_ps_t_2

 

Now. What you are going to do is mount the new actuator BEHIND the door panel in the position shown.

 

door1.jpg

 

This is a little closer shot. Be sure that the actuator clears the hole in the panel so the panel cover lock can snap in. If you look, the hole is midway between the motor on the actuator and the upper mounting hole. Remember, it goes BEHIND that panel, I am just showing it outside the panel for reference.

 

door2.jpg

 

Here is a shot of the actuator installed inside the panel.

 

door3.jpg

 

Just mark the 2 mounting hole locations, and drill the holes. The actuator should be vertical to the door. Next, the actuator comes with a rod and a clamp. Remove the lower rubber plug shown and reach up and slip the clamp on the lock rod. Then slip the new actuator rod into the clamp. (If you need to slightly bend the rod to make it parrallel with the lock rod, that is fine) Adding a drop of blue loctite on the adjusting screws is a good idea.

 

door4.jpg

 

At this point, I used an external 12 v source to actuate the lock and adjust it properly. You can do that or wait till you have it wired in the truck harness.

The original lock has a connector the has some small wires, but 2 thicker wires. These 2 wires are the actuator power. On mine, they were green and yellow. (See photo-sorry about the out of focus)

 

door5.jpg

 

The actuator just works 2 ways, so if it works backwards, just swap these 2 wires. I also left enough wire on the original connector to resplice if GM ever decides to fix these crap locks.

I also drilled a small hole in the panel and used a zip tie to hold the new wiring away from the window as it slides down.

 

Here is the installed actuator working. It sounds loud, but after the panel was replaced, it was no louder than any of the other locks. It takes a few seconds for tthe video to load.

 

http://www.eworldz.com/truck/vid1.mp4

 

So GM, take you $100 locks and shove 'em.....

 

C

Hi compulynx!

 

The problem that I'm having is that the power locks on the driver side, stopped workin, but now it doesn´t even hear the original actuator working. Before it finally broke, it seemed that it went weaker and weaker until it stopped working. Now I don't hear any sounds or clicks. I checked the fuses and they're all working (the passenger power locks are working).

 

I stripped down the driver door, and try to apply your solution. My problem is that I can't find the two wires that has the current or signal for the actuator. I already disconnected the plug that goes to the original actuator and try to find wich pins (wires) had voltage when I pushed the lock botton. I had no respone in the pins. Do you think its a bad wire? do I have to follow up the wire to see if its "open" in some place? Or maybe I just didn't understand well the pins in the connector. I didn't want to cut wires that's why I disconected the plug from the original actuator and tried to locate the wires from there.

 

Here´s a pic of the stripped door. Can you give and advice? Help me!

 

Regardsimg0943large.jpg

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3 out of 4 of mine failed under warranty. Wouldn't you know it, that last one (drivers side rear door) started going out earlier this year. Out of warranty :( 08 with 58,000 miles :( And I did ask nicely if the dealership would replace that last one under warranty when I was having the others addressed, but they said they can't if it is working at that time :(

Edited by GMCDriver1
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Ok, here's the update of my DIY install.

 

I continued to test the wires from the power door locks and this is what I did:

 

1) With the door panel out, I reconnected the switches for power doors and windos (the little panel) so I can activate the locks from there.

2) I couldn't unplug the plug that goes into the actuator (I didn't know how and the space is very small to manuver) so I decided to make a little cut to the plastic in the wires that go from the switches (door panel) to the actuator. (see pic) img0950medium.jpg

 

3) I test for the 12vdc when I activate the lock or unlock botton. Here's what happened: The best combination was the pink one with the purple one, this combination when I hit either lock or unlock button the multimeter went from 0Vdc to a high value (OL) just seconds. THe other combinations of colors from the wires jus worked with lock or unlock.

4) The strange thing here is that whenever I push the lock switch the volmeter went from 0vdc to OL+ then suddenly to OL- I don´t know why. And if I hit the unlock it went from 0Vdc to -OL and returned to 0Vdc (it didin´t make that strange OL+ and OL- thing)

5) I decided to install the new actuator and wire the purple and pink to the two wires from the actuator, to test. So the new actuator is installed and ready to work, when I push the lock, it worked and lock the door, but when I pushed unlock, nothing happened and the passengers side door lock stopped working.

6) I disconected the new actuator and the passenger lock worked again. So I think I'm messing up things or wires. So I stopped and reassembled the panel back on.

 

I don´t know how to get those 12vdc, compulynk said that he had 2 "bigger gauge" cables going to the actuator and the got that votls from there. The cables in my truck that goes to the actuator, they are 4 and are the same gauge. The only cables that have bigger gauge are the ones on the left side of this picture, and those have a constant 12Vcd, they don't do anything if I hit the lock or unlock button. see pic

img0951medium.JPG

 

Here's another pic just to show you the wires that go directly to the switches and from there the 4 wires that go to the actuator.

 

img0952medium.jpg

 

I don't know what else to do, I just don't want to mess up the wires or switches because it will be worse the repair lol.

 

I hope you can give more tips!

 

Regards

 

Chapper

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First. you apparently do not have the meter set on the proper voltage since you are getting OL (Over voltage). Are you sure you got the leads plugged in to the correct DC ports on the meter?

 

Like I said, the right combo will give a +12v reading when the switch is pushed one way, and a -12v reading the other way.

 

C

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Its a digital multimeter and it´s a fluke (auto range). I'm sure that I'm connecting the right ports in the multimeter and also that I selected the VDC selector in the multimeter. When I conected it to the wires, the screen in the fluke displays 0.0000, and when I push the door lock button or unlock, instantly goes up to OL+ and to the other side OL- (and the actuator work). I never get to read or display a constant 12vdc ro -12vdc in the multimeter. Even I tried to leave pushed the door lock button to see if it sends a constant 12Vdc but it seems it´s just a pulse of 12Vdc. (that's what I think it's happening as the output display on the multimeter).

 

With other combination of wires tested, when I pushed the button and the actuator doesn´t do anything, it just goes up to 0.0563 and something like that, meaning that it has not sufficient power to deliver to the actuator. But the same as I stated, it just goes up that reading for a pulse or an short interval of time.

 

Any other suggestions?

 

regards

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry I just saw this. You are right, it is a short pulse, not constant. But you really need a needle meter to test with. That fluke autorange is not ranging quick enough to be helpful. Sometimes, older technology works best.

 

C

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I'd just like to comment and say that @compulynx instructions are amazing and works. I also had two bigger wires so it was easy to figure out. I have a 2009 sierra 1500 sle crewcab and the driver side and rear passenger door locks went out. The only thing I don't like is how it feels to manually push up and down the locks compared to the ones that don't have the 3 dollar fix. I understand why it feels sluggish because of the actuator but its only a minor nuance.

 

Also side question. Some of the electronics on the drivers side stopped working. i.e. the door lick button. is there another simple fix for that?

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  • 1 month later...

GMC_2008 : Yes, I am saying that the door will not unlock at all. Key, button, power, nothing. i can not get my door to open up at all.

 

I just put it in the garage and I am going to pull the seats out of it and see if I can get my hand in the door far enough to pop the latch. I have had a busy holiday season so I have let this problem last way too long. I am going to see if I can pop it today.

 

Dealer offered to pop the door for $400.00 YEAH RIGHT.... only as a last resort.....

I have the 2500HD LT w/power locks, Autostart.

This summer with 19500 miles pulled inside door handle as auto unlock was engaging a few times , then noticed door wasn't unlocking. So manually pulled up and down several times on inside lock was the only way to get door to unlock. Sprayed some lube down the locking rod seemed to help. Didn't for last, 6 months haven't been able to open the door. Finially took a look last week. All 4 mechanisms to the lock accuator are working. Outside lock cylinder, outside handle, inside lock rod and inside handle, but door will not unlock at the striker. The prob is in the accuator, There is a Youtube video that shows someone pulling up and dow on the inside lock and the camera looks at the plastic pieces up under the door in the accuator and it shows how the part gets into a funky mode. Well after six months I finally got my door open. And this is how I did it.

I didn't remove the seat. I took off the 3 bolts for the inside door skin, and the cap near the mirror, and starting at the inside lock pulled back the door skin enough to fit my arm down in there. Tried fishing around with a coat hanger from the top and sides-no luck. What finally worked , I put a can of silicone with the red spray tube nozzel upright down between the door and door skin and shot it through the right smaller hole even with the actuator, right below the electrical connector and then pulled up the inside lock, pull the inside handle, inside lock down then up and repeat a hundred times if necessary. Door opened after 10 times for me. Now I can order the $86 dollar part. I have another main truck so this one sat and was a minor inconvenience. But with the cold weather thought I better make time and get it done.

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  • 4 months later...

Well my locks went out. Both within a few days of each other. When I hit the unlock button I hear what sounds like the locks trying to unlock but nothing happens. When I talked to the dealer they said it could possibly be something under the dash. After reading this thread im convinced its just the acuators. Just wondering if when others locks went out if they made a little noise when you pressed the button or if they were completely silent. Getting ready to call dealer to setup an appointment to replace them soon

Thanks

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Enad,

 

Hey there! I am sorry to hear that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle and may have to visit your local dealership. I would be happy to assist you by working with your dealership to make this process as easy as possible. Please private message me if I can be of any assistance.

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

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