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2004 Vs 2006 2500hd Duramax


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What are the differences if any between these 2 trucks? Is the towning capacity and payload the same? I've got a big 5th wheel I'll need to move about twice a year, and besides that it'll be my daily driver. I do home health and will be putting a lot of miles on it.

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First...welcome to the forum! Second. The 2004 Duramax (code LLY) had some problems during use in the 2004-2005 use in the Silv/Sierra twins. Overheating and blown head gaskets. They made 310hp, 605ft.lbs torque. For the beginning of 2006, the major problems were fixed and the engine lasted not too much longer in these trucks. During early 2006, the LBZ stepped in. 360hp, 650ft.lbs torque. It would be good to go anything from a 2007 classic downwards, to avoid the new emissions doodads, especially the Diesel Particulate Filter, which if removed, voids warranty.

 

Seeing as you need a DD, I would recommend the LBZ in the 2006-2007 classic trucks. In terms of towing, I dont think the numbers changed much, if at all. Should be 16,000lbs. But, in my opinion, go for the LBZ. Newer, stronger, more powerfull than the 04, and much more reliable.

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Newdude nailed it.

 

The 2006-2007 LBZ was probably the best Duramax engine.

 

Oh, one more thing; the earlier Duramax models were linked to a 5-speed Allison. The LBZ comes with the 6-speed Allison 1000. The extra gear is on the top end and allows cruising at freeway speeds at low RPMS. The Allison 1000 also has a manual mode, where you can actually select the gears you run in.

 

Buy a 2006-2007 Classic LBZ and you will be very happy.

 

Steve

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To put it briefly...yes. Friend of mine picked up an 06 GMC 2500hd CCSB, and it is just purely amazing. The manumatic shifting as dogzapper pointed out is pure awesome, and in my opinion, the Allison from the factory is one heck of a tranny and geared very well, having the manumatic feature just makes it that much better. And boy, does it haul too. Put it in 4hi, drop it in drive and hold on!! The six speed is the best match for the Duramax also...it really gives the engine the ability to work its magic and express its powerband.

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Is the newer dmax and allison worth an extra 5-6000 bucks?

 

 

The reason I ask is I found an 04 Ext Cab Long Bed w/ 5th wheel hitch, towing mirrors, spray liner, and running boards with 78K miles for $16,500. Already being setup to tow will save me another Grand or so, too. Comparable 06's are $20-23,000.

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Newdude nailed it.

 

The 2006-2007 LBZ was probably the best Duramax engine.

 

Oh, one more thing; the earlier Duramax models were linked to a 5-speed Allison. The LBZ comes with the 6-speed Allison 1000. The extra gear is on the top end and allows cruising at freeway speeds at low RPMS. The Allison 1000 also has a manual mode, where you can actually select the gears you run in.

 

Buy a 2006-2007 Classic LBZ and you will be very happy.

 

Steve

 

 

I found this exact truck with 92K miles for $20,000...BUT why is the 4X4 5th wheel capacity 1600# less than the 2WD? That puts me right at the max for towing weight, plus the 4x4 decreases my payload. The 5'er has 2200-2300# pin weight and would push me over GVWR. Thoughts?

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Just to make things extra confusing, the early 2006's had what was called an LLY (still 310 HP I think), but it really was more like a detuned LBZ. What you want is a true LBZ.

 

Where do you live/tow ? In the overheated discussions over on the DP (and yes, I mean this BOTH ways :smash: ) people have noticed a correlation between those of us out west (tend to have big problems) and those who stay in the east or far north (tend not to).

 

The LLY is great, but if you go west and tow heavy (I tow light or have a camper in the bed and I had problems) then you have to spend about $1300 on a V2 auxilliary radiator.

 

The others are right that the LBZ was a sweet spot that (mostly) solved overheating problems, but before they added the DPF.

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I found this exact truck with 92K miles for $20,000...BUT why is the 4X4 5th wheel capacity 1600# less than the 2WD? That puts me right at the max for towing weight, plus the 4x4 decreases my payload. The 5'er has 2200-2300# pin weight and would push me over GVWR. Thoughts?

I know that the weight of the transfer case, front diff, etc., directly subtract from the other weight capacities. I don't know the numbers but I think that might be several hundred pounds. Hmmm, are they both 2500HD's or could the 2wd be a 3500 ? Between the 2500HD and 3500 SRW (single rear wheels), the 3500 has an extra spring in the rear but pound-for-pound the difference is in the tires.

 

If you're up at the limit you might consider a dually. I didn't get a dually because I don't how you could ever drive it around town or park in a normal parking lot. But for heavy towing, nothing could be better (well, swaybars maybe!).

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Hmmm, are they both 2500HD's or could the 2wd be a 3500 ? Between the 2500HD and 3500 SRW (single rear wheels), the 3500 has an extra spring in the rear but pound-for-pound the difference is in the tires.

 

If you're up at the limit you might consider a dually. I didn't get a dually because I don't how you could ever drive it around town or park in a normal parking lot. But for heavy towing, nothing could be better (well, swaybars maybe!).

 

 

Both 2500. Got the info here: http://eogld.ecomm.gm.com/NASApp/domestic/...m=2&butID=8

 

I'll have 265's instead of 245' (E) on whatever truck I get.

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Interesting chart. Notice that ALL of the 6.0L gas models are either 200 or 300 lbs. (and it looks like all the numbers are rounded to the nearest 100, so with roundoff, these are "the same"). The diesel regular cab long bed difference is also 200 lbs. Sorry, I can't think of any reason for the other ones having so much more difference!!

 

Just for fun, I looked at the chart for the 3500 (gooseneck or 5th) and the difference between the 2wd and 4wd was 300 lbs. for all cab models (and all are long beds).

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